I'm looking for some faucet recommendations. Our en-suite bathroom has 2 vessel sinks, conical in shape with a fairly shallow angle (I hate them, but that's for another bigger job). One faucet started to leak almost immediately after we bought the house a few years ago, so I replaced it with the exact same model (https://www.amazon.ca/Danze-D225158B.../dp/B01BFHUKEM). Now the 2nd one is going, but that model is now out of stock and stupid expensive, so I'm trying to find something close to it. The issue is that because of the sink's shape I need something with a long enough spout so the water drops in the center, which the old ones do (8" spout length), and none of the vessel sink faucets I can find extend that far out. Anyone with more plumbing experience than I do have any recommendations?
Our ‘new’ house is almost ten years old now, and some of the plumbing fixtures have started to break down. I’ve had really good luck getting parts at Plumbateria. Parts haven’t been cheap, but much cheaper than replacing the whole unit.
Those Danze faucets swivel, but when we bought the house both of them were seized shut from calcium buildup inside (house has a water softener, but I'm guessing it was a newer addition). When the first one started leaking I took it apart to see if it was salvagable, but it was a total mess inside, and even if I replaced everything the swivel still wouldn't work well. I did some comparison shopping on Home Depot and I see that for vessel faucets a $300+ price isn't that crazy (and none of those swivel), so I bit the bullet and put an order in for another Danze through Amazon. Hopefully it comes back in stock sometime soon
New to owning a home an came across an issue I'm not familiar with, if anyone can provide some insight as Google not really pulling up my issue.
I'm getting some condensation on the outside of my cold air return, right before it goes into the furnace. As per this photo, it seems very specific to this insulated pipe that comes in to the duct work on the left. The insulated pipe is on the side of the house where I have all the venting, etc but unsure exactly what this pipe does.
Is this cold air being brought into the cold air return, causing the duct work to get very cold and causing condensate to form on the outside? Should I be concerned? It's just dripping on to the concrete next to the floor drain. Thank you!
Ya, that brings fresh air into the furnace(not for combustion), mine has a damper that closes it so it only opens when the furnace is running. I've never had a condensation issue, I assume it would only happen when really cold.
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Ya, that brings fresh air into the furnace(not for combustion), mine has a damper that closes it so it only opens when the furnace is running. I've never had a condensation issue, I assume it would only happen when really cold.
Ya that's makeup air.
Same line-in from the outside as combustion air, except makeup terminates in the cold air return rather than just in the furnace room for combustion air. Newer houses the makeup air generally is motorized (both a motorized damper and power sucked in by code) and/or run through an HRV to warm it up before it gets sent to furnace.
But most older houses just have a line right into the cold return and sometimes a manual damper. OP its nothing to be alarmed about. I'd be slightly concerned (strong word) if the condensation was IN the cold air return (possibility of getting some mold/mildew), but you can check that directly through the little black plug you can pull out and feel around. And if it were pooling inside the cold duct too, you can just drill a small hole for it to drain through and leave it unplugged without issue.
If it only happens when it below -20 I wouldnt stress much anyways, lots of weird #### happens at that temp
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Hey, is there a magical wrench-type tool that can help me adjust a pocket door without removing all the framing and turning it into a full-weekend job? I just need to sneak a wrench above the door but below the track to twiddle a nut to align the door better.
Have you tried a screw driver(or something skinny with a rubber end)? Stuff something under the door to take the weight off the nut, then see if you can poke at it to adjust.
Have you tried a screw driver(or something skinny with a rubber end)? Stuff something under the door to take the weight off the nut, then see if you can poke at it to adjust.
I'm way too dumb to have thought of such a masterplan. I'll give that a go. Thanks Fuzz.
Could the bottom of the door be the problem? I had a slow moving pocket door, and all the carpenter did was insert a thin mini crowbar between the door and frame and pulled gently. It aligned everything up and the door runs smooth.
Spoiler!
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Could the bottom of the door be the problem? I had a slow moving pocket door, and all the carpenter did was insert a thin mini crowbar between the door and frame and pulled gently. It aligned everything up and the door runs smooth.
Spoiler!
Hey neat, I have one of those mini crowbars.
Don't think that's the problem, though. It's not level...over the years the nut on one side has spun itself down by the looks of things, so it's sitting on the track lower at the front of the door and higher at the back. I just need to spin the nut to lift the front up, I think. Otherwise it seems to be centered within the pocket just fine.
I’ve got a pocket door issue also. The track in the wall has come away from the ceiling, and it seems the only way to get that back up properly will mean cutting into a wall? So annoying. Unless there’s a better way that I don’t know about?
Could the bottom of the door be the problem? I had a slow moving pocket door, and all the carpenter did was insert a thin mini crowbar between the door and frame and pulled gently. It aligned everything up and the door runs smooth.
Spoiler!
greatest tool ever.
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Hey, is there a magical wrench-type tool that can help me adjust a pocket door without removing all the framing and turning it into a full-weekend job? I just need to sneak a wrench above the door but below the track to twiddle a nut to align the door better.
I'm still confused what you're trying to do and why a wrench is the tool of first instinct for a pocket door.
Assuming you're fiddling with the track and/or the rollers...
- Needle nose pliers to reach narrow gap at a distance?
- Bent nose pliers to reach at an angle?
- Mini ratchet with hex or screw bit to tighten nuts or screws in tight quarters?
- Crowbar to lever the door back in place?
- WD40 or equivalent to help movement of the nut/screw/rollers?
Or look at a Youtube video on how to remove the trim to access the track, fix and then put trim back?
I'm still confused what you're trying to do and why a wrench is the tool of first instinct for a pocket door.
Assuming you're fiddling with the track and/or the rollers...
- Needle nose pliers to reach narrow gap at a distance?
- Bent nose pliers to reach at an angle?
- Mini ratchet with hex or screw bit to tighten nuts or screws in tight quarters?
- Crowbar to lever the door back in place?
- WD40 or equivalent to help movement of the nut/screw/rollers?
Or look at a Youtube video on how to remove the trim to access the track, fix and then put trim back?
None of your suggestions will work aside from taking apart all the trim, which is exactly what I don't want to do. I'm too lazy to explain it (should have taken a photo), but I think Fuzz gets it and his method offers the best chance of success. Won't be able to try until this weekend.
I’ve got a pocket door issue also. The track in the wall has come away from the ceiling, and it seems the only way to get that back up properly will mean cutting into a wall? So annoying. Unless there’s a better way that I don’t know about?
Considering my own sordid past with pocket doors?
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None of your suggestions will work aside from taking apart all the trim, which is exactly what I don't want to do. I'm too lazy to explain it (should have taken a photo), but I think Fuzz gets it and his method offers the best chance of success. Won't be able to try until this weekend.
My confusion is that with your request and Fuzz's suggestion, it sounds like you're doing something like this which seems kinda complex.... Albeit kinda funny to imagine.
But going back to your original post about wiggling a nut with a wrench and combining it with the concept of poking at it with a screw driver, I'm wondering now if you were asking about something like this to tighten the nut at an odd angle:
It seems like each time I've heard about it, everyone remarks it's so expensive for such a strange one time specific job like this. So I've also seen and heard of people using auto trim pry tools and turn nuts at funny angles in certain situations (the screw driver looking thing).
