There's nothing quite like positive confirmation after laying out a lot of money for something I don't know much about (yet...). Thanks squiggs!
Now I'm off to research pedals systems and shoes
I have the Shimano A530 http://www.mec.ca/product/5019-501/s...-pedal/?q=A530 on my Zing. The beauty of these are that I can wear a regular shoe on them on one side or flip them over if I want to clip in with my shoes that have SPD bottoms. The flat side of the pedals can get a little slippery but H&L suggested putting hockey tape over them. It does the trick. If you are wanting to cycle to dinner and don't want to wear bike shoes at your meal, or walking on the beach, look into one of these styles. I'm told the mountain bike style shoe can hold this cleat and you can walk normally, but all of my shoes are road bike style. The SPD cleats are incredibly awkward to walk on and you can hear them grinding down the metal with each step.
On my Felt and my Cervelo I have Shimano 105 pedals. I have one set of the 5700 series and one set from the 5800 (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/c.../rp-prod116513). I like the pedal style of the SPD-SL better, so I have a couple of pairs of shoes with that setup.
I have narrow feet and all of my shoes are Specialized. My cheapest pair was $40 on sale and my most expensive was around $300. Try on lots and find a pair that will be comfy, yet supportive.
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Originally Posted by Bingo
Jesus this site these days
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Originally Posted by Barnet Flame
He just seemed like a very nice person. I loved Squiggy.
There's nothing quite like positive confirmation after laying out a lot of money for something I don't know much about (yet...). Thanks squiggs!
Also, since you are just getting into bikes, I will warn you that you are three months away from wanting a nicer bike. These things are like crack. There is always one bike that is slightly nicer, newer, etc. I moved to Vancouver with a crappy Sport Chek bike. I've bought four in the seven years I've been here. One has been retired, but I do ride all three.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bingo
Jesus this site these days
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnet Flame
He just seemed like a very nice person. I loved Squiggy.
Also, since you are just getting into bikes, I will warn you that you are three months away from wanting a nicer bike. These things are like crack. There is always one bike that is slightly nicer, newer, etc. I moved to Vancouver with a crappy Sport Chek bike. I've bought four in the seven years I've been here. One has been retired, but I do ride all three.
For the first time in my life I now have two bikes a mtn bike and my new commuter. In a perfect world I'd replace my current mtn bike (Rocky mtn altitude 730) for something a little lighter and then get a bike park/downhill rig.
Anyways, I just took out the front tube in my Rocky and am going to run tubeless this season. It will be interesting to see if I notice a difference.
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^ my issue will be running lower pressure as i have always favoured running my tires at the max pressure.
The conversion process was quite simple as i purchased new rims that were UST ready last summer. So it was a matter of removing the tube, reinstalling the tire and then putting in some organce seal stuff and re-inflating.
Hardest part was getting the tire back on the rim as I broke a tire lever as the bead was quite tight.
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Why just tubeless for the front? Eliminating pinch flats from the back is where tubeless shines.
Maybe it's just my beat-up lumbar spine that can tell weather better than any triple-doppler radar... but my back seems to hurt a lot less if I run less than 35psi. I'll bet there are some small-bump compliance qualities from running lower psi.
^ my issue will be running lower pressure as i have always favoured running my tires at the max pressure.
The conversion process was quite simple as i purchased new rims that were UST ready last summer. So it was a matter of removing the tube, reinstalling the tire and then putting in some organce seal stuff and re-inflating.
Hardest part was getting the tire back on the rim as I broke a tire lever as the bead was quite tight.
Sweet shoes. Just read some reviews on those. Allegedly one of the most walkable cleated shoes out there. Which LBS had them for the same money as online?
Does anyone have the live tracking Garmin 510 or 810? Does it work well around the mountains here? I'm wondering if the $150 price difference vs 500 and 800, respectively is worth it. The wife wants to be able to track me if I get into trouble... but at the same time, I don't necessarily want her to know where I am all the time...
Sweet shoes. Just read some reviews on those. Allegedly one of the most walkable cleated shoes out there. Which LBS had them for the same money as online?
Does anyone have the live tracking Garmin 510 or 810? Does it work well around the mountains here? I'm wondering if the $150 price difference vs 500 and 800, respectively is worth it. The wife wants to be able to track me if I get into trouble... but at the same time, I don't necessarily want her to know where I am all the time...
I have the 510. It only works as long as you have a good cell signal. So, for road riding, it works great. But depending on where you are mountain biking, it will lose the signal. it will try to reconnect, but if you are out of service for a period of time, it quits trying.
I've had a 705, 500, and now the 510. IMO, the 500 is the best value, and best computer. I don't like the touch screen, and I rarely use livetracker. I have the cadence/speed sensor, heart rate monitor, and now the vector powermeter.
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Sweet shoes. Just read some reviews on those. Allegedly one of the most walkable cleated shoes out there. Which LBS had them for the same money as online?.
I ordered them from cyclepath on Macleod. They quoted me $150. Jensen usa sells them for $120 but will not ship them to Canada. Only downside is that they don't stock them, so I went on line and found a size conversion chart, which I hope is correct. Also hoping they will work ok with my flat pedals - race face atlas
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Also, since you are just getting into bikes, I will warn you that you are three months away from wanting a nicer bike. These things are like crack. There is always one bike that is slightly nicer, newer, etc. I moved to Vancouver with a crappy Sport Chek bike. I've bought four in the seven years I've been here. One has been retired, but I do ride all three.
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Originally Posted by combustiblefuel
Yup. I got 7 now.
5 here. 2 dirt jump bikes, a downhill bike, a full suspension all-mountain bike, and a steel hardtail. Eying a fat bike next.
There is a scientific formula for this. The number of bikes you need is always equal to n+1, where n=the number of bikes you currently own.
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For a mountain bike you're getting more rolling resistance by doing that, way less traction, and way more vibration.
Curious why you'd get more rolling resistance? Maybe depends on terrain, but when I'm on my 29'er cruising around the top of Nose Hill, I find I go way faster with high pressures. I run much lower for traction in the mountains though.
Curious why you'd get more rolling resistance? Maybe depends on terrain, but when I'm on my 29'er cruising around the top of Nose Hill, I find I go way faster with high pressures. I run much lower for traction in the mountains though.
"On rough surfaces, however, a tire at lower pressure is able to absorb more of the bumps than a tire at higher pressure, with less deflection of the bike and its rider. This is the same “sprung vs. un-sprung weight” argument that demonstrates why suspension makes a bicycle faster on rough terrain — it takes less energy to keep the bike rolling if only a small amount of weight is lifted (like a small section of the tire) than if the entire bike and rider is lifted by the bump."
"On rough surfaces, however, a tire at lower pressure is able to absorb more of the bumps than a tire at higher pressure, with less deflection of the bike and its rider. This is the same “sprung vs. un-sprung weight” argument that demonstrates why suspension makes a bicycle faster on rough terrain — it takes less energy to keep the bike rolling if only a small amount of weight is lifted (like a small section of the tire) than if the entire bike and rider is lifted by the bump."
So I guess the answer depends on the type of trail you are riding.
