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Old 03-02-2021, 08:50 PM   #3561
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Ok I'm having a moment. I'll admit plumbing is not my expertise but I'm still pretty handy and should be able to figure this out.

I have a shower head and tub faucet I want to change out and make more modern.

The current set I have is from an unknown manufacturer, there is nothing stamped anywhere on the old hardware. All I want to do is switch the shower head and tap to something more modern and a decent quality brand (Delta?)

I understand in regards to a shower there is no such thing as universal. Am I correct in assuming that large brass thing behind the hot/cold lever needs to be changed to a Delta (pic attached)

I got a quote from one Plumber and frankly I don't feel that this should be a $1700 job.
Yes the large brass thing needs to be replaced.

The hole is supposed to be big enough to replace it but because the fittings are always soldered you really don't have enough room to do it proper.

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty you can do this yourself but it will involve cutting the copper lines as far back as practical, assembling a new valve without being able to test your fittings, and splicing it in place. Soldering is complex cause the valve acts as a heat sink and if you get it too hot you can bugger that up too (gut it before any heat goes on). So your plumber probably wants to take half the wall down and run new everything from the floor up, and with the amount of damage a water leak can cause who can blame him.

If you can take out some drywall and give yourself some space its much easier, I am trying to tell from the pic what you have for a tub surround.
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Old 03-02-2021, 08:55 PM   #3562
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Also, go for Moen.
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Old 03-02-2021, 09:15 PM   #3563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5 View Post
Yes the large brass thing needs to be replaced.

The hole is supposed to be big enough to replace it but because the fittings are always soldered you really don't have enough room to do it proper.

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty you can do this yourself but it will involve cutting the copper lines as far back as practical, assembling a new valve without being able to test your fittings, and splicing it in place. Soldering is complex cause the valve acts as a heat sink and if you get it too hot you can bugger that up too (gut it before any heat goes on). So your plumber probably wants to take half the wall down and run new everything from the floor up, and with the amount of damage a water leak can cause who can blame him.

If you can take out some drywall and give yourself some space its much easier, I am trying to tell from the pic what you have for a tub surround.
But I could possibly avoid this by figuring out the manufacturer of that brass part that way I could just buy the appropriate brand of shower head, tap and hot/cold handle.

Grinds my gears that you can't just select a set (brand be damned) and screw it on.

Edit: Ive just got a one piece tub and shower from the mid 90's. We are just being cheap. We wanted to update the hardware (I did the bathroom and kitchen sink taps already just fine) change out the medicine cabinets and update the paint. Give it a new look on the cheap kinda thing.

Last edited by Deviaant; 03-02-2021 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 03-02-2021, 10:00 PM   #3564
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I literally just went through some fiasco with valves

Remove that chrome trim ring and sleeve. If it’s a new enough Moen to work with their current products (Posi-temp) it’ll slide off. Yours looks like it maybe threads on?

Make sure the water is turned off.
Remove the cartridge retaining clip.
Remove cartridge - it’ll probably really not want to come out. They make pullers, but some vice grips and patience with some flat head screw drivers, cognizant of the old plastic bits, it’ll come out.

If the valve doesn’t identify itself, take it to a plumbing supply, or even HD and compare.

Your water lines look taped and threaded, not soldered? For some reason I’m thinking it’s a delta?

Worst case, but one of each from the cheapie fixit section from Hell’s Depot and see what fits.

If you do change the valve, because, let’s say your significant other changes her mind in where she wants the valve to go after paying a plumber to move the spout and after drywall is up...pex is like adult lego and soldering is a skill Everyman should have.
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:11 AM   #3565
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I would cut them back as far as you can and just sharkbite the fittings together.

Use some unions and you should be able to do it easy enough
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:17 AM   #3566
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So I've got the side up and down windows in a few rooms, like this:



And a few of them have become very drafty.

I've done a few quick google searches but figure that you fine folks haven't led me astray thus far and I value your input.

What's the best way to fix the draftiness?
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:18 AM   #3567
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Yes Sharkbites, I've used them and they are great, don't know why I didn't think of that. Solves the soldering issue and if the fittings aren't tight enough you can still turn them.

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Old 03-03-2021, 08:35 AM   #3568
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I was going to recommend that, but then I know how some feel about those fittings. I used 6 of them about 7 years ago, and haven't had a problem. It may still be tricky with that stud where it is, as you still need some room to maneuver. I'm not sure all of them have the same dimensions, so it might get in the way. I'm pretty sure mine was bulkier than that.


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Old 03-03-2021, 09:49 AM   #3569
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I'll check those Shark bite things out. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 03-03-2021, 02:13 PM   #3570
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So, it finally happened.

In my ensuite, the previous owner must have done the work himself, and designed it very poorly. This is the progression of install: Pedestal sink -> Tile (no grout) -> towel bar (and other things) -> grout. So the entire walls are covered in tile, but literally buttup against the pedestal sink, instead of having installed the tile and grout first, then installing the sink on top of the tile. This means that the only way to replace the pedestal sink would be to find one that's EXACTLY the same size, or replace with something bigger in every dimension. The bathroom is laid out poorly, so there is no way to but a vanity other then something very tiny (but still bigger than the pedestal sink) , that would allow movemnet through the ensuite.

Well, this morning, my pedestal sink cracked (I think it's had a hairline crack for a while, but still held water). Now my options are to spend a bunch of money replacing the pedestal sink, which means I'd have to spend money repairing tile and grout. This option still leaves me with a dated and poorly laid out ensuite that doesn't function well.

The second option is to literally strip everything to the studs and rebuild the ensuite that we want. It probably needs to be done anyway - and we might as well get enjoyment of it for more years.

The current ensuite is a 4 piece bathroom, in a room not really big enough for a 4 piece. The toilet has been replaced already, but all the other fixtures are mint green. The 6' air jetted mint green tub probably cost a fortune when it was installed, but it never gets used, and its too big for our hot water tank to fill up with hot water. taps and trim are chrome and brass. Theres a giant mirror that was inset into the tile above the tub. The previous homeowner, when he did the work, apparently didn't want to re-stiple the ceiling, because he left the top plate in place where the previous wall was, and just drywalled around it. There is two types of tile on the walls, apparently he liked the design of the accent tile enough that he literally cut each side of the accent tiles down so that the tile would be the same width as the other type of tile he chose. Of course these accent tiles are also slightly thicker than the main tiles too - as you can imagine, it looks terrible when you look at everything closely.

I already put in a small frosted picture window this last summer along with the siding that was getting redone, which brought some natural light into the room.

When we moved in, there also wasn't even a door between the bedroom and this ensuite, but I put one in a while back already.
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:17 AM   #3571
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Has anyone looked into smart glass or smart tint or whatever for their home windows? We need to get a new garden door this year and the boss wants to get a shade built into the glass (installed between the glass panels.) Currently we just have blinds mounted to the door and it is not the most ideal solution. Instead of blinds or a shade between the glass I'm wondering if a high tech solution might be better. Some sort of electrochromic solution so that we could adjust it between full light to no light transmission.
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:37 AM   #3572
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Anybody ever paint the brick on their house exterior ?

Looking for a cheaper alternative to remove / replace.
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Old 03-07-2021, 11:37 AM   #3573
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Anybody ever paint the brick on their house exterior ?

Looking for a cheaper alternative to remove / replace.
I'll be doing mine this spring, though mine are just glued on brick faces. If it ends up looking like ass, I'll pop them all off, but that would suck. My plan is to use my paint sprayer to go over everything in white, which will remain as the grout colour(it's dirty and old), then take a low nap roller and go over the faces with a gray or something. They are currently Santa red. Going to try a little corner first just to see what it looks like.

Last edited by Fuzz; 03-07-2021 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 03-07-2021, 11:37 AM   #3574
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We have a third floor loft, an open floor plan from basement to loft, and a south facing house with lots of windows. If the sun is out it gets incredibly warm, even in the middle of winter. If the sun isn't out it's cold in the middle of winter. We have a zoned thermostat system and central AC but seemingly poor duct work in the loft.

What are some options to keep the temperature in just the loft in a fairly narrow band throughout the year? Ductless mini split? Can this run in the winter months to cool just the loft? Replace south facing double pane windows with triple pane and add thicker blackout blinds? Suck it up and stop whining?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-07-2021, 12:00 PM   #3575
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We have a third floor loft, an open floor plan from basement to loft, and a south facing house with lots of windows. If the sun is out it gets incredibly warm, even in the middle of winter. If the sun isn't out it's cold in the middle of winter. We have a zoned thermostat system and central AC but seemingly poor duct work in the loft.

What are some options to keep the temperature in just the loft in a fairly narrow band throughout the year? Ductless mini split? Can this run in the winter months to cool just the loft? Replace south facing double pane windows with triple pane and add thicker blackout blinds? Suck it up and stop whining?

Thanks in advance.
Lofts are really tough. We had two different lofts in the past. In one we tried to deal with heat by addressing the window with tint and curtains and what not but it didn't really help. In the other loft we had a ceiling fan and it worked surprisingly well at dealing with heat. The airflow and circulation was really important and a ceiling fan is a really inexpensive retrofit.
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Old 03-07-2021, 06:31 PM   #3576
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Anybody ever paint the brick on their house exterior ?

Looking for a cheaper alternative to remove / replace.
We painted some brick planter boxes at our house. Just used brush and rollers and it turned out great. Used masonry paint and bought more than what should have been required based on the coverage area specs, the texture of the bricks soak up a lot of paint.
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:57 AM   #3577
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I'm looking for advice on insulating a 1950's bungalow. We've done renovations and additions over the years but not touched many of the existing walls. Turns out have maybe 1" insulation in 4" walls. I'm considering blown in insulation as a quick fix for at least the coldest room (master bedroom), but the people I've talked to so far won't fill finished walls because of inconsistent results (which I can understand). I'm not in position to do a major reno at the moment (time nor energy).

My wife has brought up external insulation as another option - I'm not sure the pros and cons of that.

Has anyone who has gone the blown in route offering any advice? Other suggestions?
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:17 AM   #3578
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I'm looking for advice on insulating a 1950's bungalow. We've done renovations and additions over the years but not touched many of the existing walls. Turns out have maybe 1" insulation in 4" walls. I'm considering blown in insulation as a quick fix for at least the coldest room (master bedroom), but the people I've talked to so far won't fill finished walls because of inconsistent results (which I can understand). I'm not in position to do a major reno at the moment (time nor energy).

My wife has brought up external insulation as another option - I'm not sure the pros and cons of that.

Has anyone who has gone the blown in route offering any advice? Other suggestions?
My parents had an old bi-level with the same problem. The insulation was paper thin.

Tore the drywall off all the exterior walls and replaced with roxul insulation, then redrywalled. Ton of work, but I think worth it. Took the insulation that was in the walls and added it to the existing attic insulation.

I'd almost take it one step further and add 2x2s onto the studs to make the cavity bigger. Yes, you lose some space in the house but that coupled with new windows and you basically have a modern insulated home.
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:36 AM   #3579
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I've heard external insulation can be done but it would actually be more expensive due to the time to take off the external siding, put it back together etc. Totally different story if its a new build of course but I've heard for affordability doing the interior walls is better value
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Old 03-08-2021, 11:42 AM   #3580
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May depend on the kind of siding on your house now, if stucco I know you can put stiff foam insulation and new siding over top. No demolition required.
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