First pic is the side where the leak was running down the inside. The next is the other side of the window, but there was a small crack beneath the old trim. The last pic is from the ceiling where there was another roof leak. I was planning on scraping off the popcorn, doing a skim coat with mud and then painting white.
First pic is the side where the leak was running down the inside. The next is the other side of the window, but there was a small crack beneath the old trim. The last pic is from the ceiling where there was another roof leak. I was planning on scraping off the popcorn, doing a skim coat with mud and then painting white.
I would just sand the paint a bit (Gently) and then repair/flatten the spots with mud or putty and feathering it out. Trying to remove the old tape and replacing it is going to open a huge can of worms and likely will result in it looking more bulky (and likely worse) than just feathering out the cover up.
Bandsaw: totally depends on what you're building. I have a passable 18" one (made by a company that no longer exists, but basically the same as a Rikon), but it's always been a bit annoying to keep adjusted and aligned properly. If you don't see much wide resawing (6+ inches) in your future, a good quality 14" one might be all you'll ever need. Sometimes they pop up used for a good price.
Dust extraction: Cyclones are great (I have a Clearvue one), but they're hideously expensive. But anything is better than nothing, so get whatever you can afford or even just use a good vacuum if that's all you can justify. Too much dust (or pretty any MDF dust) is awful for your health and super annoying to work with.
And if you see yourself doing cabinetry or doing finish carpentry type stuff, consider a track saw. I have a Makita one and it's great. I get cleaner and more accurate cuts in plywood with it than I do on my cabinet saw. It's not crucial if you're mainly doing solid wood furniture though.
Also probably the most important thing for anyone doing woodworking:
USE THE GUARDS AND SAFETY EQUIPMENT THAT COMES WITH YOUR TOOLS!
A lot of guards (particularly table saw ones) can be a little annoying and most people just throw them away, but that's an awful idea. Even seasoned pros make mistakes and end up maiming themselves. My advice is either get used to using the stock ones or replace them with something better. Since riving knives have mandated, the guards on new saws are a lot better, but if you have an older saw it's probably pretty clunky. But don't throw it away, there's usually an easy way to modify it to you can pop it on and off as needed for non-through cuts or dados.
I need to fully adjust my band saw sometime, I don’t use it fir much other than scroll saw type stuff.
On dust collection, my dad has a great shop setup in his attached garage, and has a great dust collection system. Even with that, he was still being affected by sawdust. Lots of hardwoods are toxic, but you don’t notice too much until it’s sawdust. He got himself a 300cfm fan with a large washable cylinder filter that right the opening of the fan. That cleans all the floating dust out of his garage that doesn’t get caught by the dust collection.
And I’ll echo the safety stuff. Keep guards on, remove loose clothing, DO NOT wear gloves.
I’d add: really, really, really clean the window. Use a razor blade to make sure that there is no debris or baked-on dirt on the window, because that stuff will cause air bubbles to appear and/or ruin the window film from sticking properly.
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Re: Safety. Always, always use eye protection. Less than a year ago I took a rogue piece of shrapnel to my cheek just beneath my eye.
Yesterday, wore eye protection literally all day while working. Took them off as I finished up, and then noticed a broken screw, and tried to break it off quickly with a hammer.
12 hours of work with power tools, totally fine. 2 seconds of oversight and I have a tiny piece of screw apparently embedded in my caruncle. SMH.
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No, no…I’m not sloppy, or lazy. This is a sign of the boredom.
I need to fully adjust my band saw sometime, I don’t use it fir much other than scroll saw type stuff.
On dust collection, my dad has a great shop setup in his attached garage, and has a great dust collection system. Even with that, he was still being affected by sawdust. Lots of hardwoods are toxic, but you don’t notice too much until it’s sawdust. He got himself a 300cfm fan with a large washable cylinder filter that right the opening of the fan. That cleans all the floating dust out of his garage that doesn’t get caught by the dust collection.
And I’ll echo the safety stuff. Keep guards on, remove loose clothing, DO NOT wear gloves.
When making sawdust in the in the shop I wear a mask, have been using the same medical masks so popular nowadays.
[QUOTE=CroFlames;7688560]Thanks again for the info kind internet stranger. I will mostly be building furniture, and I want to try different hard wood species. Speed is not a factor for me since wood work is a hobby for me and it's my excuse to unplug while I'm doing it evenings and weekends. My priority is the quality of the surface the planer produces. I've been leaning toward the DeWalt benchtop, but it doesn't have a helical head so I started wondering about quality. Maybe traditional knives are good enough and a scrape or sand will take care of the rest.
I started with a bench top planer but soon traded it off. I do all my thicknessing with a drum sander (delta 1836) so no more worries about grain tear out on expensive wood.
I am strictly hobby worker myself, have never sold anything. It’s real easy to give stuff away..
BUMP: Anyone have any local recommendations on interior painting companies/contractors?
We’ve got a stairwell/hallway that spans 2 stories of our home that we need to get painted, along with some interior trim/doors that have wear & tear from the cat.
If there’s anyone you’ve used before for similar jobs let me know.
Is it a problem if my house gets dry so my hardwood floors creak?
Do you have a humidifier in your house?
I'd bet if you measured the humidity in your house you would see it's really dry. Which is common in winter months. Dry wood shrinks and wet wood expands. Its perfectly normal and not a huge issue. I would bet the creeking in the floor would fix itself in the spring time.
I've used Meerkat on a couple of houses now. No complaints on their work, they went the extra mile to help me solve some attic ventilation issues. Price seemed fair.
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And (I am not making this up) statistically this is the Edmonton Oilers fourth best season in the last 13 years." via Rob Tychkowski's Twitter 1-23-2019
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