Ongoing General Automotive Thread 2.0

[Acey]

30 minutes after handing them 45 grand, the dude's response to his luxury car dumping oil into my condo parkade is "I don't know if we have loaners, go drive it and that will resolve the issue". Once I tell him it's leaking from the pan and he realized I'm not idiot, radio silence.

Spoiler!

[cam_wmh]

Originally Posted by TorqueDog

I've driven the 6MT versions, they have a very... agricultural feel about the shifter. This sometimes leads people to try and shift them too forcefully which causes the shift linkage to come off and then, well, that's a nuisance to fix at the side of the road. Also, when the vehicle is cold, the transaxle is very stiff in the 1-2 shift, though some have reduced this by switching the transaxle fluid.

The clutch kiss point with the stock single-plate clutches fitted to the V8 is at a weird spot in the pedal travel, and early 4.3L cars had heavy flywheels so they were slow to rev, compared to later 4.7L cars and / or cars that have had the twin-plate clutch and lightweight flywheel fitted (like mine, a 4.7L twin-plate).

Overall it's not a bad manual. But not buttery goodness like my old E39 M5 was either.

The 7-speed SS2 -- especially with the twin-plate -- is a very rewarding and engaging transmission once you've familiarized yourself with it, and around town / in traffic it's head and shoulders better than the early 6-speed SS transaxle shared with the Ferrari F430. I also have the Vantage GT8's ASM firmware applied to my TCM, which adds further increases in line pressure for faster gear changes. At WOT, it is very quick.

Yeah, I’ve ripped the dbs-v with that 6 speed auto.
Pleasant, gorgeous, grand tourer, adore the v12, but automatic.

[CorsiHockeyLeague]

https://www.windingroad.ca/inventory...di-rs-6-avant/

JFC.

Want it so bad.

[TorqueDog]

Originally Posted by cam_wmh

Yeah, I’ve ripped the dbs-v with that 6 speed auto.
Pleasant, gorgeous, grand tourer, adore the v12, but automatic.

FWIW, that's a different transmission altogether than in the Vantage. The big GT cars (DB9, DBS, Virage, Gen.2 Vanquish, Rapide) are all torque converter automatics using the ZF 6HP (or ZF 8HP in the later Vanquish / S and Rapide S). DB9 could be had with a 6 speed manual until MY2011, and DBS could be had with the same manual for its entire run (until 2012). They're exceedingly rare to find and -- when they are finally listed for sale -- they sell very quickly and for a very hearty premium.

The 2006-2017 Vantage only ever came with a Graziano manual transaxle in one of the following flavours:
- 6-speed manual (single-plate clutch on V8, twin-plate clutch on V12)
- 6-speed w/ Magneti Marelli ASM single-plate (V8)
- 7-speed w/ Magneti Marelli ASM single-plate (V8 S) <-- mine but with the V12's twin-plate
- 7-speed w/ Magneti Marelli ASM twin-plate (V12 S)
- 7-speed dogleg manual twin-plate (V12 S)

Manuals were more common in 4.3L Vantage (06-08), and in later Vantage GT which were low-spec 'fast order' production run-out models.

[DoubleF]

I don't know how to word this, but what concept should I be looking up to learn (ie: Key words) when it comes to figuring out how to match RPMs to driving when paddle shifting?

Basically like, identifying RPMs/shifting/idling/cruising for responsible fuel consumption and spirited drives to avoid damage/inefficiencies. TBH it's the shifting I'm trying to figure out in terms of downshifting before braking etc.

I've basically heard a bunch of random stuff that seems wrong and I'm trying to figure out what is wrong, OK and best practices. Other times, it's just like, "Just get a feel for what's right." but what "right" is, I don't know.

[cam_wmh]

Originally Posted by CorsiHockeyLeague

https://www.windingroad.ca/inventory...di-rs-6-avant/

JFC.

Want it so bad.

https://www.facebook.com/share/14wxj...ibextid=wwXIfr

[CorsiHockeyLeague]

Not even close to the same thing.

[TorqueDog]

I always thought it was unfair that we didn't get the C5 RS6 in Canada, but the C6 RS6 is another level of drooltastic (that we didn't get in North America at all).

Originally Posted by DoubleF

I don't know how to word this, but what concept should I be looking up to learn (ie: Key words) when it comes to figuring out how to match RPMs to driving when paddle shifting?

Basically like, identifying RPMs/shifting/idling/cruising for responsible fuel consumption and spirited drives to avoid damage/inefficiencies. TBH it's the shifting I'm trying to figure out in terms of downshifting before braking etc.

I've basically heard a bunch of random stuff that seems wrong and I'm trying to figure out what is wrong, OK and best practices. Other times, it's just like, "Just get a feel for what's right." but what "right" is, I don't know.

It's vehicle-dependent. As you mention paddle shifting, I'm assuming you either have an automatic transmission car that allows you to shift, or some flavour of auto shift-capable manual, DCT, SMG, etc. -- we'll call this latter group "ASM".

For economical driving, eh, the car is almost certainly going to be better at it than you, but if your vehicle has a trip computer that will tell you the 'instant economy', you can use that to see what the estimated consumption is for your speed, throttle position, RPM, and choice of gear. If you find the car is struggling to maintain your desired speed and your RPM is low (you'll feel it), you're lugging the engine and that's not very efficient nor a good idea, so change down to a lower gear. I aim between 1,900 RPM and 2,200 RPM for cruising speed. Auto and ASM cars will do this when the RPM gets too low anyway... some more raw ASM cars can get caught out and will still allow you to stall the engine.

For spirited driving, you need to know the RPM at which your engine produces peak power, and shift at / as close to that RPM as possible for the best acceleration. Going around corners, again, vehicle dependent. You want to keep RPM high to power out of the corner, but be cautious with rear-drive bias turbocharged applications as the surge of torque they provide is a great way to end up in a hedge calling a flatbed truck. Supercharged and naturally-aspirated engines have linear power delivery so you won't get an unexpected torque surge at mid-to-high RPMs. My old twin-turbo V8 Mercedes was really bad for this.

If you want to downshift as you're braking, you want to better understand the concepts of 'engine braking' and, well, downshifting. If I'm slowing from a cruising speed (again, between 1,900-2,200 RPM), I downshift first and let my RPMs fall as my speed decreases, and only use my brakes sparingly. When I get close to the magic RPM range, downshift again. You develop a feel for it as you learn your vehicle. How aggressive you are with downshifting and how much brake-force you use is determined by how quickly you're stopping, and if you are trying to time slowing down with getting on the accelerator again (trying to avoid a full stop at a red light about to go green). Don't downshift to slow the car down when it's icy out, engine braking can't modulate the braking force on the wheels to mitigate sliding, because it isn't using the brakes in the first place.

The transmission control modules for both automatics and manuals with auto-shift systems are designed to prevent the squidgy organic thing between the seat and steering wheel (ie: you) from selecting too low a gear that would cause the RPMs exceed safe limits and launch the first connecting rod into outer space. So if you try to downshift too rapidly, the car will only shift down to a gear that is safe for the speed you're traveling... you might be just tucked under your car's RPM limiter, but it won't let you exceed it.

Anything specific you want more clarity on, ask away.

[Table 5]

Do we have a clear idea yet of how this tariff nonsense affects used cars? I "sold" my 2003 911 to a guy down in Maryland in the late fall, with the idea that he'd pick it up and bring it home this spring.

I say "sold" because it's still more of a handshake deal at the moment (but I do have $10K as a DP). If the guy has to pay 25% more for the car, that wouldn't really make sense any more.

[TorqueDog]

If a vehicle has never been imported for registration into the United States (or Canada, or into whichever country you're importing the car), then there is still a duty to be paid on the vehicle's selling price.

So if your 2003 911 is originally a Canadian car and has never been imported and registered to the United States before, it just got 25% more expensive. Sorry man.

[Derek Sutton]

But thats for the buyer to worry about, not your problem.

[TorqueDog]

Also consider the greed that has fueled used car market values -- and especially where goddamned Porsche is concerned. I would bet used Porsches (and other desirable cars) state-side are going to see a price increase to take advantage of the imposed tariffs that make importing a used Porsche more expensive.

[Table 5]

Originally Posted by TorqueDog

If a vehicle has never been imported for registration into the United States (or Canada, or into whichever country you're importing the car), then there is still a duty to be paid on the vehicle's selling price.

So if your 2003 911 is originally a Canadian car and has never been imported and registered to the United States before, it just got 25% more expensive. Sorry man.

Well, it's originally a US car that was imported into Canada. Importing it back is not a problem (already confirmed that before), but are you saying that if it was already a US car once it wouldn't qualify for the tariff? That would be nice.

Originally Posted by Derek Sutton

But thats for the buyer to worry about, not your problem.

Perhaps, but I'm also not looking to be ruthless here. If I was on the other side, I'd be pretty choked to have to pay an extra $10K.

[TorqueDog]

Originally Posted by Table 5

Well, it's originally a US car that was imported into Canada. Importing it back is not a problem (already confirmed that before), but are you saying that if it was already a US car once it wouldn't qualify for the tariff? That would be nice.

So I am about 99% certain here, I might be wrong, but my understanding is that yeah, the duties have already been paid on it, so there should not be any impact from the tariffs. There's a record of it having been registered in the United States and the VIN is already in their system. He can get his local registration, plate, and insurance, and back in it comes. At most, there might be state sales tax payable when he registers it. It's one of the few benefits of owning a US-origin car in Canada; being able to sell it back and forth between the countries is easy peasy.

[Table 5]

Interesting, that would certainly be a nice surprise! Will have to do a little more digging, but let's hope you're right.

[Table 5]

In other import-related news...does anyone have experience or know someone who can help with importing a car from Europe? I know there are ton of JDM importers, but looking to perhaps buy a camper van from Germany and need someone who can help arrange transport/importing as the buyer is private.

[curves2000]

Originally Posted by TorqueDog

Also consider the greed that has fueled used car market values -- and especially where goddamned Porsche is concerned. I would bet used Porsches (and other desirable cars) state-side are going to see a price increase to take advantage of the imposed tariffs that make importing a used Porsche more expensive.

The used car market in Canada right now is beyond stupid and one of the factors is an insane amount of cars being sold and sent south. American buyers coming up here and snatching up product, Canadian's selling their cars down there. New and used car dealerships having an export part of their business in large volumes all as a result of the Canadian peso doing it's thing.

When the CAD/USD was par or almost par, Canadian's including myself bought a lot of cars in the US. The American's are doing that now in droves and their apatite for cars is huge and it's having an impact on pricing.

Frankly I think it would be advisable for the government to put some export controls/tax on middle of the road, mainstream newer/modern cars. The type of stuff that American's are taking advantage of, not some old classic or collector cars that are hard to come by.

[Calgary14]

Generally what is the expected increase in price for a new vehicle here with the tariffs coming in? Looking at a Honda or Toyota

[photon]

My car came with Pilot Sport 4S tires and I've never had a purely summer tire before.

The rear has 7/32 left but the fronts are at 4/32 (it's staggered so I can't rotate), I think 2/32 is when they legally need to be replaced but I've never had a summer tire before so I don't know how lower than 4/32 impacts them.

Is hydroplaning / wet stopping distance going to fall off a lot? I.e. do people switch summers out at that point or is running summers down to 2/32 fine?

Just wondering if I can run them for the summer or if I should replace them now.

Thinking of Pilot Sport AS 4 or Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 Plus as replacements, I don't think I want pure summer tires as this is my daily driver, I think the first owner this was a summer fun car.

[dammage79]

In my humble opinion, it's Michelin or nothing when it comes to performance rubber. Pirelli comes in 2nd.

Id also say if you're in the performance vehicle end of the market you should be looking at two sets of single season tires anyways. You don't want all seasons in the winter and life is better when you have good summers.
All seasons shouldnt even be on the shopping list.