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Old 11-07-2018, 09:31 AM   #1901
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Does your new switch require neutral? Then attach the ground just to be safe. If you're replacing a switch that does nothing but interrupt the black wire, don't bother.
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It's just a regular old switch and not a dimmer or timer right?

Wire everything up as indicated by the manufacturer, if there is no ground wire then install a ground wire using the back screws inside of the box. Follow their instructions and you'll be fine.
I think I should just bite the bullet and call someone? The three I want to replace are on a dimmer and they require the neutral. If it isn't obvious by these questions, what I know about electricity could fill a thimble (maybe)! I just figured that I would pull the old ones out, put the wires in the same place and it would be quick and painless.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:39 AM   #1902
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Really it shouldn't be too bad, but with electricity you dont wanna play around. Make sure the breaker is off of course, attach your ground first, then neutral, then hot and switch legs.

In your case I would probably call someone, theres a few things that can catch you, if it's easy then it shouldn't be expensive. If not the sparky will let you know. If you think they might be hosing you feel free to ask away and take pictures of the dimmers, wiring diagrams and wires in the boxes.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:59 AM   #1903
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It's just a regular old switch and not a dimmer or timer right?

Wire everything up as indicated by the manufacturer, if there is no ground wire then install a ground wire using the back screws inside of the box. Follow their instructions and you'll be fine.
Hopefully the boxes are grounded...
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:20 PM   #1904
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Boxes should have a ground wire attached on them already.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:30 PM   #1905
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One of the rubber grommets in my furnace that seems to keep the a small blower fan from shaking and screeching has become dry and brittle and loose. Are there any special ones that are meant to withstand the heat, or can I use any old one? It’s near the wiring and controls, so it doesn’t get super hot, but don’t want it to melt or anything.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:58 PM   #1906
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Talk to Everlast about the furnace grommet
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Old 11-14-2018, 04:54 PM   #1907
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Are central vac outlets typically cemented into the pipes? Or are they just fit on snug friction wise?

My kick plate outlet doesn't seem to be sealing anymore when not in use; any time the central vacuum turns on it sucks through there. I was thinking of trying to disassemble it to see if it's easily fixable, but I'm not sure if I can disconnect it easily or not.
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:10 PM   #1908
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Are central vac outlets typically cemented into the pipes? Or are they just fit on snug friction wise?

My kick plate outlet doesn't seem to be sealing anymore when not in use; any time the central vacuum turns on it sucks through there. I was thinking of trying to disassemble it to see if it's easily fixable, but I'm not sure if I can disconnect it easily or not.
Yes, I believe they are cemented into place.
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:13 PM   #1909
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They should be, mine aren't, but mine are probably 50 years old. Sounds like maybe the stopper flap isn't closing, could just have something jammed in it. Maybe open it manually and try poking around a little.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:30 PM   #1910
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Yeah I figured it wasn't closing properly, but I couldn't see or feel anything jamming it up, and the mechanism feels smooth, I'll mess around it some more before I try to start pulling stuff apart.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:54 PM   #1911
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Anyone know how to get a stripped p trap nut off? Bathroom sink. Stripped almost bare. My super helpful tenant tried to unclog it himself.
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:22 PM   #1912
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:53 AM   #1913
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Are central vac outlets typically cemented into the pipes? Or are they just fit on snug friction wise?

My kick plate outlet doesn't seem to be sealing anymore when not in use; any time the central vacuum turns on it sucks through there. I was thinking of trying to disassemble it to see if it's easily fixable, but I'm not sure if I can disconnect it easily or not.
No, the ones I use slide in and there is an oring for a seal. The part on the outside of the wall with the flap does not glue in.

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Old 11-15-2018, 11:36 AM   #1914
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The kick plate ones look like they're a single piece:

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Old 11-15-2018, 03:45 PM   #1915
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My kickplate was not cemented on. I found it detached one day after trouble shooting a loss of suction. I haven't cemented into place yet (just fit together for now). I'm also wondering if there is a reason I shouldn't cement it?
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Old 11-16-2018, 05:04 AM   #1916
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Ahh. Ya that’s different. Would help if I read properly. I installed one of those for a freind and we used some flexible piping clamped on so it could be removed if required. Anything that mounts onto a surface should be removable for servicing.
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Old 11-16-2018, 01:21 PM   #1917
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After we redid our bathroom, we didn't think much of the insulation that was in the walls, however now whenever anybody uses that bathroom for showering/bathing/etc the noise is really loud. I presume that was the function of the insulation and not some random gaff. Anyway, at this point, would blow-in insulation do much? I read that it can be done with just a 1" hole, which would be great, as I didn't want to do a lot of patching after and we might repaint the walls on the opposite side of the bathroom anyway - but I don't want to go through the hassle if insulation won't do anything. Mostly the sound is from the bathtub, like any movement inside it, water filling it, draining, etc. It's next to the living room so its very annoying while trying to watch TV and the kids are using the tub.
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Old 11-16-2018, 07:00 PM   #1918
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It should help but you don’t want just pink blown in. It’s too loose and won’t do much. Roxul makes a good product for sound but it’s batts. You need something think and heavy blown in. I don’t know what’s available for that.
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Old 11-18-2018, 01:21 PM   #1919
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I don't know if this really fits the home improvement category, but does anyone own their own power rake/scarifier? I'm thinking about getting my dad one for Christmas because he still rakes his large corner lot by hand with a rake from about 1921. It seems they're not all that expensive, but I don't know much about them. Anyone own one?
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Old 11-18-2018, 03:17 PM   #1920
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I just use the spring blade you attach to the mower. Works well enough for me, and only $20!


Just never pull the mower backwards, that's how you break the springs.
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