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Old 11-14-2021, 10:37 AM   #4301
Hemi-Cuda
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I thought the Weiser smart key system seemed easier to use than the stuff in this video. I redid my house myself with them when I took possession of my place.
Same, I bought a Ultraloq smart deadbolt for my front door and wanted the rest of the outside doors on the same key, so I grabbed some Weiser locks and it was really easy
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Old 11-14-2021, 06:55 PM   #4302
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I thought the Weiser smart key system seemed easier to use than the stuff in this video. I redid my house myself with them when I took possession of my place.
The kwikset is the exact same as the weiser, it only looks complex cause he's showing how to do it when you've lost your key. With either system you have to have at least one good key to change your keys. Don't ask me how I know this.
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Old 11-15-2021, 09:26 AM   #4303
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I thought the Weiser smart key system seemed easier to use than the stuff in this video. I redid my house myself with them when I took possession of my place.
Yes. But the point of this video is when you DON'T have the current key.
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Old 11-15-2021, 10:02 PM   #4304
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If anything that video proves that the difference between wire nuts and wagos is actually pretty much insignificant. Certainly not definitive; there's more variability in resistance due to how the alligator clips were making contact with the other ends of the wires.

Taking your back-of-the-napkin calculations further, a 20 A load on a 120 V circuit draws 2400 W, so the difference between a wire nut and a wago is

[(2402.72 / 2402.6) - 1] * 100 = 0.005%

Respectfully: whoop-de-####ing-do.
If you'd like to have a chat with me about electrical testing and maintenance feel free to send me a PM. As I explained the video was flawed from the start but I would be happy to teach you why wago's are bad and I could even get the test equipment from my work and show you why they are inferior. Balls in your court homeslice
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Old 11-16-2021, 08:49 AM   #4305
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Why PMs? Feel free to show us all.
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Old 11-17-2021, 01:48 PM   #4306
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I have some renovation questions for the CP mind. I’m a newbie when it comes to renovation stuff, so bear with me.

I have a water leak in the ceiling above my upstairs second level shower. A little bit of water pools only when the shower is running. I’m assuming there’s piping running above that is leaking. Picture below.

Spoiler!


What I’d like to know if there’s any chance a plumber could fix this without opening up the ceiling? I’m thinking no, saving climbing in the attic to patch it up.

-Any referrals for someone to re-drywall and spackle the ceiling?
-Any referrals for someone to waterproof and tile a bathroom as we may put in a new shower?
-Any tips with ripping out the ceiling? As I’m going to do that myself.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-17-2021, 01:53 PM   #4307
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I can't see any reason you would have water pipe in the attic. I suspect it's more likely excess humidity spray getting up there. You could try taping(masking tape) a garbage bag to the ceiling to block the spray to test that theory.



If that's the case, the issue is that type of ceiling treatment probably shouldn't be used in the bathroom unprotected. If it were me, I'd go over it with some sort of water resistant paint. That's just guessing looking at it though.
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Old 11-17-2021, 02:38 PM   #4308
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Is it possible the insulation has moved and that spot is extra cold and the shower humidity is condensating there?

Get a temp gun and check the temp of the ceiling in different spots and see if you have a cold patch. I had too much air movement in my attic and there were several bare spots and a temp gun makes them easy to identify. I thermal camera would be better but a temp gun works too.
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Old 11-17-2021, 02:39 PM   #4309
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Originally Posted by Nabber View Post
I have some renovation questions for the CP mind. I’m a newbie when it comes to renovation stuff, so bear with me.

I have a water leak in the ceiling above my upstairs second level shower. A little bit of water pools only when the shower is running. I’m assuming there’s piping running above that is leaking. Picture below.

Spoiler!


What I’d like to know if there’s any chance a plumber could fix this without opening up the ceiling? I’m thinking no, saving climbing in the attic to patch it up.

-Any referrals for someone to re-drywall and spackle the ceiling?
-Any referrals for someone to waterproof and tile a bathroom as we may put in a new shower?
-Any tips with ripping out the ceiling? As I’m going to do that myself.

Thanks in advance.
Along the lines of Fuzz's reply, I would check the showerhead to make sure you don't have a tiny leak that sprays the ceiling when the shower is on. Those handle extensions are pretty notorious for leaking.
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Old 11-17-2021, 02:39 PM   #4310
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and the ceiling doesn't look damaged, if you fix the moisture issue let it dry thouroughly and zinzer seal it and repaint.
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Old 11-17-2021, 04:30 PM   #4311
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First of all, it's noob, not newbie.
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Old 11-17-2021, 05:02 PM   #4312
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Best way to fix a water damage ceiling without having to repaint is px primer in a spray can from cloverdale paint. Spray effected yellow area then let dry and spray another coat. That is the closest color and match to knock down ceiling color I have found. Will usually match ceilings perfect as long as no one has smoked in the house.
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Old 11-17-2021, 05:04 PM   #4313
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Thanks so much for the replies Fuzz, Speede5, TopChed, Knightslayer! All super helpful information and gives me a real good idea of where to start, instead of just ripping out the ceiling.

It does seem like it could be moisture issues now that some of you mentioned that, as there’s not a lot of water, mainly bubbles pooling on the ceiling.

TopChed I did originally think something like a tiny leak in the showerhead, so I’ll explore that as well.

Ok noob it is CroFlames

Appreciate all the tips!!

Last edited by Nabber; 11-17-2021 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 11-17-2021, 05:16 PM   #4314
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Best way to fix a water damage ceiling without having to repaint is px primer in a spray can from cloverdale paint. Spray effected yellow area then let dry and spray another coat. That is the closest color and match to knock down ceiling color I have found. Will usually match ceilings perfect as long as no one has smoked in the house.
I had really good success with just diluted bleach in a spray bottle after I had some attic rain issues in my old house. Sounds counterintuitive to add more liquid but after a few applications, it blended just fine.
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Old 11-17-2021, 06:00 PM   #4315
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I had really good success with just diluted bleach in a spray bottle after I had some attic rain issues in my old house. Sounds counterintuitive to add more liquid but after a few applications, it blended just fine.

Yes this works well as well I have heard. I hate the smell of bleach so I don't go near that stuff but it definitely works.
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Old 11-18-2021, 11:57 AM   #4316
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Does anyone know if a thermostatic value for a shower is as simple as getting a plumber to open up the wall and patching/weld it into the hot/cold water lines before the bath/shower?

Or are there more complex considerations and special pairing of specific values to shower set ups?
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Old 11-18-2021, 06:32 PM   #4317
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You need to pick a valve of a similar size and orientation as the existing one, otherwise you may have to cut a bigger opening on the shower/tub side of the wall. Or you may find a much smaller valve assembly than the one you have, which you will need to cover with a very large cover plate or escutcheon.
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Old 11-20-2021, 08:10 PM   #4318
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Is there something I can do to improve the signal reception of our garage door opener aside from buying a whole new one? It works perfectly fine from the hardwired button or through the MyQ phone app, but both remotes I have and the built-in opener in our Toyota all have issues with getting the garage to open, sometimes you have to press the button 5 or 6 times
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Old 11-20-2021, 09:51 PM   #4319
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Is there something I can do to improve the signal reception of our garage door opener aside from buying a whole new one? It works perfectly fine from the hardwired button or through the MyQ phone app, but both remotes I have and the built-in opener in our Toyota all have issues with getting the garage to open, sometimes you have to press the button 5 or 6 times

That's likely not the signal but the battery isn't making contact with those little metal things. Garage door openers are notorious for those little prongs bending and not making contact with the battery.
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Old 11-20-2021, 10:32 PM   #4320
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Check the antenna on the garage door opener - usually just a dangling wire near the control panel. Could try different angles/locations for that and see if that improves reception
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