Street cleaners went through Home Road area, a huge artery for commuters, recreational, and training cyclists. Immediately south of the 16th Ave / Home Road intersection (actually within the cycling path) there's been a pile of gravel all week thanks to the cleaners accidentally dumping. Grinds me gears... aaaargh.
One of the best pieces of tech I've purchased in the last few years is the Garmin Varia Radar light. It detects when cars are approaching from behind and gives you a signal on your cycling computer (works on my Wahoo). It's great when you're doing solo or group rides out on the highway or do a lot of street riding. I received mine as a gift, but it's worth the $270 if you're putting in a lot of kms on the road.
Looks like a slippery slope to equipping your bike with more and more electronic counter measures:
I know you're being facetious but there's comfort in knowing a car is approaching from behind when you're on a road with a small shoulder and the wind is blowing. It'd be pretty pointless on pathway commutes but when you're putting in 50+kms on the open road, it's an added bit of peace of mind and saves you from constantly looking over your shoulder.
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Hey cycling experts!
I'm looking into getting my first road bike in about 25 years or so... Not playing hockey I feel like I need to get my cardio and legs back in check.
Does anyone have any thoughts on a late 90's Trek 2021 carbon/alum bike? Seems to be in like-new condition, hardly been ridden, with brand new shifters and Shimano 105SC component group.
Given the size requirement (6'2" rider) and availability of bikes, I'm tempted to pull the trigger on it assuming the in-person inspection goes OK.
Depends on price and condition. Is it the one with round carbon tubes and aluminum gussets? This is like mine:
I've had it for at least a decade. It's been great. I heard the one thing to look out for at the joints, but particularity the bottom bracket, is to make sure their isn't any cracking. Those joints are glued, and that's the weak spot.
My shifters are the old 105's but Shimano used a grease that turns to glue after a few decades, so I've had a bit of trouble with that. Probably why yours are new. Anyway, it's been a great bike for me, and I'm a heavier rider so it can hold up. I think I paid $300 back around 2009? It was in great condition at the time.
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Thanks for the reply and the info!
The guy is asking $575 for it. Obviously that's with 2021 prices given the shortages and demand... I'm assuming anyway... It's in great condition, but have to inspect it myself tonight in-person.
Yeah, I'll definitely keep an eye on those joints, I've read that in a couple of spots.
Not sure if it's worth the money that he's asking, but everything else that I've seen used for sale is $1300 and up...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzz
Depends on price and condition. Is it the one with round carbon tubes and aluminum gussets? This is like mine:
I've had it for at least a decade. It's been great. I heard the one thing to look out for at the joints, but particularity the bottom bracket, is to make sure their isn't any cracking. Those joints are glued, and that's the weak spot.
My shifters are the old 105's but Shimano used a grease that turns to glue after a few decades, so I've had a bit of trouble with that. Probably why yours are new. Anyway, it's been a great bike for me, and I'm a heavier rider so it can hold up. I think I paid $300 back around 2009? It was in great condition at the time.
Thanks for the reply and the info!
The guy is asking $575 for it. Obviously that's with 2021 prices given the shortages and demand... I'm assuming anyway... It's in great condition, but have to inspect it myself tonight in-person.
Yeah, I'll definitely keep an eye on those joints, I've read that in a couple of spots.
Not sure if it's worth the money that he's asking, but everything else that I've seen used for sale is $1300 and up...
Downtube shifters are so Walmartian (and 1990's). That said my 1998 Trek 5200 (same frame Lance won his TdF on) already had the integrated shifter/brake 9-speed STI's back then (53/39 crankset, probably an 11-25 cassette block). So you'll at least want the STI's and ability to run much easier gears (compact 50/34) or semi-compact (52/36) crankset and an 11-28 or even 11-30 cassette around these parts given the hills and wind. Oh, and at least 25mm tires, preferably up to 28's. It it can only do 21 or 23's you'll find those not only harsh but hard to find.
The "better" used road bikes come up regularly on Pinkbike, Kijiji, Marketplace but you need to move pretty quickly. If you're looking for a used Kona dew deluxe 'cross bike I think my friend might be selling his ~10yr old one soon for around $1k. Located near Crowfoot.
I have a new Cannondale disc sora road bike. it has a Shimano Sora 9-speed drivetrain w/ dual chainring FSA crank. I've ridden it 3 times.
I understand the left shifter controls the front derailleur, which causes more dramatic changes and is helpful for riding on hills. Pushing the whole left hand lever in, shifts the back, increasing "resistance" pushing the inside lever in, makes it easier.
The opposite applies for the right hand lever.
My Question: Pushing my left lever in, I can feel it click one place over, and it makes my gears make creaking noises, but that's about it. I do not notice a change at all in my ride. It does not make for a tougher ride. I then click the inside left lever back, and it makes the creaking noises disappear, but hasn't really changed the resistance in the gears. Am I supposed to push the entire left lever in when I'm in 1st gear, or once I'm in the max gear on the right side lever? I've tried every single way, with no luck.
When I push my inside right lever in, I get more resistance, but on left side lever, when I push my full lever in, it does nothing besides make my gears make a creaking noise. What am I doing wrong?
Can anyone explain this?
Additionally, when I push my inside right lever in several times, apparently reaching my "top gear" which seems like 7 or 8, my bike gears start to creak the entire time, why is that?
I can't seem to get to the highest gears to ride fast and I'm very frustrated. So far, while I'm enjoying road cycling, coming from a mountain bike background, I'm finding it unnecessarily complex to the point of being absurd.
Thanks for any replies.
Last edited by Johnny199r; 04-17-2021 at 04:01 PM.
I think when you push the left lever in - that is the “trim” for the front chain ring. Some bikes need that depending on what gear combination you are running.
To me it sounds like your bike needs a tune up to get the shifting dialed in
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I think when you push the left lever in - that is the “trim” for the front chain ring. Some bikes need that depending on what gear combination you are running.
To me it sounds like your bike needs a tune up to get the shifting dialed in
A tune up to get the shifting dialed in on a brand new bike ridden 3 times and bought 2 months ago is extremely disappointing.
The problem is a lot of those front shifters are designed to work with 3 front chain rings, so it has an extra step in there. My wife has a similar bike and shifter and also had an issue like that. So one click is more of a phantom one that may just give you a little bit of adjustment. I ended up just tightening my wife's until it only worked for 2 chain rings.
The other thing is that new cables stretch as they set in, and may just not have enough pull to get it to the top ring now that it has relaxed. Most shops tell you to bring it back after a month or 2 because of this. It's a very easy fix if you look on Youtube, or call the shop and take it in.
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Went out to Sheep River today and it was amazing. Other than about 10m of snow in the final 2km, that you could still squeak through, it was perfect. If you're looking for 40km of no cars (20 out and back) you should definitely get out there before May 15th.
Lots of families out there too if you want to get the kids out.
I did that on Thursday, it’s a nice ride. Starting from turner valley is easy if a person wants some extra distance. Good pavement, only 1 bigger hill, and a bunch of mountain goats and deer. I’ll probably try and do it again after this blast of winter blows through, and it has me excited for doing the Highwood again in June.
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I have a new Cannondale disc sora road bike. it has a Shimano Sora 9-speed drivetrain w/ dual chainring FSA crank. I've ridden it 3 times.
I understand the left shifter controls the front derailleur, which causes more dramatic changes and is helpful for riding on hills. Pushing the whole left hand lever in, shifts the back, increasing "resistance" pushing the inside lever in, makes it easier.
The opposite applies for the right hand lever.
My Question: Pushing my left lever in, I can feel it click one place over, and it makes my gears make creaking noises, but that's about it. I do not notice a change at all in my ride. It does not make for a tougher ride. I then click the inside left lever back, and it makes the creaking noises disappear, but hasn't really changed the resistance in the gears. Am I supposed to push the entire left lever in when I'm in 1st gear, or once I'm in the max gear on the right side lever? I've tried every single way, with no luck.
When I push my inside right lever in, I get more resistance, but on left side lever, when I push my full lever in, it does nothing besides make my gears make a creaking noise. What am I doing wrong?
Can anyone explain this?
Additionally, when I push my inside right lever in several times, apparently reaching my "top gear" which seems like 7 or 8, my bike gears start to creak the entire time, why is that?
I can't seem to get to the highest gears to ride fast and I'm very frustrated. So far, while I'm enjoying road cycling, coming from a mountain bike background, I'm finding it unnecessarily complex to the point of being absurd.
Thanks for any replies.
Sounds like you need someone who knows STI shifting come give it a whirl and then, if necessary, show you how it works. It might also just not be tuned well anymore regardless of how many rides it’s been on. My impression is that you may not be doing a complete shift, maybe not peddling the same time so that the drivetrain can actually complete the shift, and maybe not going at a sufficient speed to need to shift to the harder gears.
If you’re in the general vicinity (plus minus ~10mins) of Crowfoot shoot me a PM and maybe I can have a look. Can meet at some park or parking lot and do the whole masking and spacing thing.
A tune up to get the shifting dialed in on a brand new bike ridden 3 times and bought 2 months ago is extremely disappointing.
Almost every bike store recommends you to get a tune up right after the breaking in period. When the bike has been sitting in a shop after it's put together, nothing is moving. After you have ridden it a few times the chain has stretched. If you have brake and/or shifting cables, they too have stretched. Most bike shops, and stores that sell bikes, give a free tune up in the first 30 days so they can tighten all of the cables and moving parts that are supposed to loosen up as you begin to ride the bike. It shouldn't be disappointing. It's how bikes are designed. Would you want worn cables and chains put on a new bike?
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