The Home Improvement Thread

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by Shin Pad

Those are just drawing notes. When I have finished preparing a specification for a commercial project, it ends up being a 3" thick book spec. I have done drawing "specifications", which might be one or two drawing sheets, but it is a really short form but usually adequate for the projects I would use it on. Again, you don't usually have a "book" spec for a residential house, but most commercial projects of any size or complexity have book specs accompanying the drawings.

Ok you got me on the joke .

You're wrong but that's fine.

[Shin Pad]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

You're wrong but that's fine.

If you are writing book specs for a house, then I'm impressed.
Anyway, I'm a Registered Specification Writer, so I know I'm not wrong - but as you say, that's fine.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by Shin Pad

If you are writing book specs for a house, then I'm impressed.
Anyway, I'm a Registered Specification Writer, so I know I'm not wrong - but as you say, that's fine.

How do you know? You don't work in my company, nor have been one of my clients. Trust me, it's a "book". Am I specifying the temperature range for use of subfloor adhesives? No, but that doesn't mean I don't provide a construction spec book on my projects.

[Shin Pad]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

How do you know? You don't work in my company, nor have been one of my clients. Trust me, it's a "book". Am I specifying the temperature range for use of subfloor adhesives? No, but that doesn't mean I don't provide a construction spec book on my projects.

Honestly, I'm not doubting you, I'm impressed. Most home builders/designers don't provide a book spec. Anyway, this is a sample of what I would consider a drawing specification (this is only one section, but you get the idea)


1.1 Section 07 21 16 - Batt and Blanket Insulation

.1 Thermal Batt Insulation: one of the following:
.1 Unfaced Batt Insulation: friction fit preformed type 1, GreenGuard certified or formaldehyde binder free and EcoLogo certified; fibrous glass conforming to CAN/ULC-S702, Density to be minimum 1.22 kg/m2 of surface area, to meet all British Columbia Building Code 2012 Requirements, thickness and thermal resistance as indicated on the drawings. Acceptable Manufacturers:
.1 Johns-Manville.
.2 Owens Corning EcoTouch Pink Fibreglass thermal insulation.
.3 CertainTeed Sustainable Batt Insulation.
.4 Other preapproved product.



.2 Mineral Fibre Batt Insulation: mineral wool fibre insulation made from basalt rock and steel slag, conforming to CAN/ULC-S702, type 1, 32 kg/m3 density, EcoLogo certified; non-combustible, thickness and thermal resistance as indicated on the drawings; Acceptable Products:
.1 Roxul Plus Batt Insulation.
.2 Roxul ComfortBatt Insulation.
.3 Other preapproved product.

.2 Install batt insulation in strict accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.

.3 Install thermal batt insulation between exterior stud framing members, as indicated, to complete fill spaces to provide a complete and continuous thermal barrier.







This is a very basic spec and really doesn't cover much, but it is usually good enough for very small projects. My book specs would be much more detailed. Also, this is from an older project - obviously Roxul changed it's name to Rockwool. Also batt insulation in this project was only in the walls - the roof was a commercial type "flat" roof.

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by MoneyGuy

Water is leaking from our bathroom fan. I’m attempting to dry it out. My wife just had a shower and we’re running a portable humidifier constantly. I should know in a couple of hours if humidity is the problem but I don’t want to go onto an icy roof to check.

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

Your problems are extreme cold, showers and gravity. Which one can you do away with?

Great joke aside, building this out - it is likely just the built up moisture in the duct itself that is thawing out and dripping back down the pipe (assume you've got a sunny roof and asphalt shingles that has warmed your attic up above freezing).

Not uncommon and not a whole lot you can do about it. Insulating your ducts or replacing your ducts with a non-metallic material (PVC pipes, corrugated plastic) can help reduce the incidental build up slightly, but in the end, you're pumping highly moistened hot air our through a pipe that is -30 degrees. When you kill the fan there will be moisture on the sides that will still be condensed and refreeze. Rinse/repeat over a number of showers and there can be a decent amount of build up causing dripping when the attic warms.

Same concept as attic rain except here its just limited to your fan/exhaust and not the whole attic. Running the fan will help dry it out and prevent and puddles from stagnating too much.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by Shin Pad

Honestly, I'm not doubting you, I'm impressed. Most home builders/designers don't provide a book spec. Anyway, this is a sample of what I would consider a drawing specification (this is only one section, but you get the idea)


1.1 Section 07 21 16 - Batt and Blanket Insulation

.1 Thermal Batt Insulation: one of the following:
.1 Unfaced Batt Insulation: friction fit preformed type 1, GreenGuard certified or formaldehyde binder free and EcoLogo certified; fibrous glass conforming to CAN/ULC-S702, Density to be minimum 1.22 kg/m2 of surface area, to meet all British Columbia Building Code 2012 Requirements, thickness and thermal resistance as indicated on the drawings. Acceptable Manufacturers:
.1 Johns-Manville.
.2 Owens Corning EcoTouch Pink Fibreglass thermal insulation.
.3 CertainTeed Sustainable Batt Insulation.
.4 Other preapproved product.



.2 Mineral Fibre Batt Insulation: mineral wool fibre insulation made from basalt rock and steel slag, conforming to CAN/ULC-S702, type 1, 32 kg/m3 density, EcoLogo certified; non-combustible, thickness and thermal resistance as indicated on the drawings; Acceptable Products:
.1 Roxul Plus Batt Insulation.
.2 Roxul ComfortBatt Insulation.
.3 Other preapproved product.

.2 Install batt insulation in strict accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.

.3 Install thermal batt insulation between exterior stud framing members, as indicated, to complete fill spaces to provide a complete and continuous thermal barrier.

This is a very basic spec and really doesn't cover much, but it is usually good enough for very small projects. My book specs would be much more detailed. Also, this is from an older project - obviously Roxul changed it's name to Rockwool. Also batt insulation in this project was only in the walls - the roof was a commercial type "flat" roof.

I’m wondering if there’s a point in there somewhere? I’m still struggling to determine why we’re discussing this beyond my attempt to deflect the condescension.

[Shin Pad]

You're right, no point. My bad - sorry.

[PaperBagger'14]

I didnt think it was possible, but accounting is no longer the most boring job

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by PaperBagger'14

I didnt think it was possible, but accounting is no longer the most boring job

At least they get helicopters.

[Calgary14]

Update - I just had a roofing envelope person stop by to look at the house. He said the issue was (is) likely 80% related to condensation and 20% crappy roofing job in that area. He checked the whole roof and noted all vents are/were covered in snow, so the attic can't breathe properly causing condensation to run off in that area.

So not only do I need a roof fix in that valley, I also need 6 "max vents" on that side to ensure proper ventilation in the attic. They are taller and have multiple levels of ventilation and seem better than the basic/short caps I have up there right now. $130 each at Rona.

Anyway I was impressed someone could confidently say that was the cause of the water running down the side of the house - no one has been able to figure that out yet.

The downside is they are somewhat swamped with similar calls and the wait is 1-2 weeks.

Here's hoping it actually solves the issue!

[InglewoodFan]

Originally Posted by Calgary14

Update - I just had a roofing envelope person stop by to look at the house. He said the issue was (is) likely 80% related to condensation and 20% crappy roofing job in that area. He checked the whole roof and noted all vents are/were covered in snow, so the attic can't breathe properly causing condensation to run off in that area.

So not only do I need a roof fix in that valley, I also need 6 "max vents" on that side to ensure proper ventilation in the attic. They are taller and have multiple levels of ventilation and seem better than the basic/short caps I have up there right now. $130 each at Rona.

Anyway I was impressed someone could confidently say that was the cause of the water running down the side of the house - no one has been able to figure that out yet.

The downside is they are somewhat swamped with similar calls and the wait is 1-2 weeks.

Here's hoping it actually solves the issue!

Glad to hear things are getting solved. A lot of my ice damming and attic issues were solved by increasing the ventilation a ton. 1950s construction plus a suspicious 90's addition meant that things weren't done that well. For example they didn't join the attic of the addition to the main attic and there was zero installed ventilation on the addition. Yeah. My attic is very cold now, which I understand is the goal.

I also increased my attic insulation and put proper surrounds on all the pot lights and after years of fighting the ice I seem to have a decent solution.

[photon]

I've got a bunch of under cabinet fluorescent lights I'd like to replace with LEDs, they'd be direct wire I think (assuming I can get at the ballasts), anyone have ones they like?

[Fuzz]

I spent a bunch of time looking for that this fall. There are not many good options. This was the best I could find:
www.amazon.ca/Honeywell-Fixture-Selectable-Brightness-45368/dp/B07VYM14X6

I ended up installing these:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/leg...ite/1000132550

And then got these:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TFDDDJ3


But there are lots of options once you have an outlet. There are not many with hard wired.

[Calgary14]

Update - I got the roof fixed where the valley is and there was ice damming there in early January. That was a few days ago and since then there has been no water running down the side of the house. I still plan on getting more ventilation in the attic (max vents) but really relieved the roof fix is making a difference.

In my case I would guess the water was caused by both a crappy roofing install and condensation

[Deviaant]

Ok I'm having a moment. I'll admit plumbing is not my expertise but I'm still pretty handy and should be able to figure this out.

I have a shower head and tub faucet I want to change out and make more modern.

The current set I have is from an unknown manufacturer, there is nothing stamped anywhere on the old hardware. All I want to do is switch the shower head and tap to something more modern and a decent quality brand (Delta?)

I understand in regards to a shower there is no such thing as universal. Am I correct in assuming that large brass thing behind the hot/cold lever needs to be changed to a Delta (pic attached)

I got a quote from one Plumber and frankly I don't feel that this should be a $1700 job.

[Nufy]

Can you access the other side ? He might be quoting tile work as well.

[DoubleF]

I don't know anything, but I am wondering if you are in a situation where there's a code issue that needs remedying if you bring in a dude (plus other work that is required if he remedies like fixing the wall, sealing etc.).

For instance for my dishwasher, I've been told that there's no issues if I keep using it, but I've been told that if I change its position or replace it, I may have to redo all the plumbing to get it up to code.

[opendoor]

Switching the shower head is usually no problem at all, you basically just take the old one off and replace it.

The valve is a different story. If you have access to the wall behind it, then it's not usually a huge deal, but if it's an exterior wall or if your kitchen cabinets are on the other side of the wall or something, then you have start taking apart your shower surround which is much more involved. You might be able to find new trim that'll work with your existing valve, if aesthetics are your main reason to the change. And sometimes you can even find a new cartridge to work with the old valve as well. But that's a lot harder if you have no way of knowing the manufacturer.

[Fuzz]

There is really no room to work, there. It doesn't help that it looks like there is a stud right next to the valve. What did his quote involve? It could have just been a "no way do I want to do this job" quote.

[Deviaant]

So what do people do when they want to update/upgrade a shower? I seriously assumed this would be like installing my kitchen taps. I just changed them and everything was more or less universal, it was simple. Why is a shower so different?

The Delta version of that brass valve is $55. I was looking at a Delta shower head, taps and hot/cold knob for like $450 so that's what $500 in parts that I'm supplying. Seems outrageous to spend $1700 to install it, regardless of how difficult the install might be.

Maybe if I called a plumbing wholesaler like they might have some clue on how I can find the manufacturer?