The Home Improvement Thread

[topfiverecords]

Patching the cat doors might be less work than swapping all of the doors.

Why do interior doors have cat doors though? I’ve never seen that.

[red sky]

Originally Posted by photon

If you view one of the photos on that site, right click on the photo and choose "Copy Image Address" and use that in the image tags.

I.e. don't use https://ibb.co/pPZgwjw but use https://i.ibb.co/KG7Yhxh/IMG-20201221-162958-2.jpg

EDIT: Very nice BTW!

Haha thanks that is the before shot.



I should say the original was just not out style. Definitely nothing wrong with it.

[opendoor]

Originally Posted by RW99

So I ended up ripping off the face plate of the thermostat and it looks like I have an L1 as below. So it sounds like I'm out of luck for Ecobee and Nest? Any recommendations for a smarter thermostat?

http://imgur.com/gallery/4Fi2FrC

I don't think that's an L1, I think it's just an L. Each of the terminals is numbered 1-12 and L just happens to be in the #1 position. L1 is normally for high voltage systems (110-220V) but your thermostat says 24V on it.

That said, that wiring doesn't look like it follows the standard labeling for run of the mill HVAC wiring, so you might need to do some digging to see if it'll work. And the 3 wire controlled fan speed is probably going to be an issue. I don't think Nest or Ecobee can control that through multiple wires, though you could always just pick a preferred fan speed and wire that one in.

Just guessing based on the labeling, but the wires might break down as: L is for an indicator light, N is the power source (so similar to a C wire), NC sends power from N to call for cooling, NH sends power from N to call for heating, and L, M, and H on the right call for low, medium, and high fan speeds. So it might work with Ecobee/Nest; it could just be a matter of connecting the N wire to the C terminal, the NC to Rc, the NH to Rh, and your preferred fan speed to the G terminal. But that's just a wild guess; you'd really need to look into it more or have an HVAC pro check it out before doing anything. If anything in the system is non-standard, it might not work with normal smart thermostats.

[surferguy]

Take your doors to Timbertown and get them to match the hinges etc to a new doors.


Talk to bigtime he will sort you out.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Ahuch

Anyone have any solid advice on changing doors out? I'm on a mission to continue removing all the Oak in the house. The frames are all square and solid, my first thought is that I could just change the doors and not bother with pre-hung.

Doors themselves - I'd like to find something a little more solid as opposed to the typical hollow doors you find at Home Depot. Maybe Finger jointed wood instead of MDF/HDF?

I have a cheap-o Ryobi router, so I was thinking of buying one of those mortising templates for the hinges.

Anything else I should be aware of? It seems like painting the existing door frame might show the oak grain unless I use wood filler / sand which could be a nightmare in itself.

I know that pain. I bought a house that had honey oak cabinets, doors, window frames, baseboard, floors, wainscoting etc. just honey oak everywhere. The only thing that survived as honey oak was the floor because I ran out of time and budget to sand it down and stain it.

For doors, how many are you doing and what do you have existing? You can't just paint over them and hope for the best. You have to strip them down by washing them with TPS/bleach and then sand them before priming and then painting... but also have space to keep the damn things and wait for them to dry at every step. You're better off purchasing something that is ready to be painted rather than refurb the old one IMO. We had a ton of issues with cabinet door repainting/refurb and many had to be re-done until we got the hang of things. I didn't even both attempting it with the doors.

Knowing what I know now, I should have just got new cabinets too instead of re-furbing them. Might be like 20-40% more, but better design, more modern, brand new and can more easily add things like anti-slam etc. Repainting/refreshing an old one isn't a joke if you have more than a handful to do.

I just contacted a client in a small town and did a batch order of 30 solid core doors that were ready to be painted. Not only is it upgraded being solid core, it also has an updated design as well. The client even said it's possible to have the hinges pre-installed for like $30-50 a door or something stupidly cheap and super worth it (I didn't go that route), but then you have to figure out the full pre-hung or partial pre-hung route.

The contractor I used said pre-hung wasn't necessary and basically just kept the old door close, matched up the old door to the new one to figure out the hinge positioning and then installed them rather than the above.

Please do not manually chisel. My contractor was getting pissy manually chiseling 30 doors, and about 10 doors in, I discovered this and asked if he knew of it:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryo...ate/1000732628

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryo...9550?rrec=true

He had a good jig system for the hinge so he didn't need the above, but he didn't know about the door latch kit above and it saved him a crap ton of time on the remaining doors.

For the door frame, I had the contractor re-use the old trim and painted it. it seemed a little easier for what we were trying to accomplish, but it wasn't much less of a pain in the ass. For baseboard, we just went to Timbertown and got new stuff. If you get it on sale it's idiotic cheap and it's an updated design.

Painting wise, I paid for a higher end sprayer and let the contractor learn on the job. It was far cheaper than paying something insane like $100-140 an hour and the job the contractor did was more than adequate. It uses more paint but it looks far nicer. Sherwin Williams and some other places will offer you constant streams of 25-30% off your orders if you set up an account with them.

[Scroopy Noopers]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

Patching the cat doors might be less work than swapping all of the doors.

Why do interior doors have cat doors though? I’ve never seen that.

If I had cats the entire purpose of my interior doors would be to keep cats out of rooms. Maybe this is why I don’t have cats.

[woob]

Originally Posted by red sky

I should say the original was just not out style. Definitely nothing wrong with it.

That looks awesome!

[photon]

Originally Posted by red sky

I should say the original was just not out style. Definitely nothing wrong with it.

It is pretty dark, your change definitely lightens it up and the colour from the mantle is nice. It's interesting how the other stuff in the room takes on a different look with the mantle IMO.

I really like that round light fixture too!

[red sky]

Originally Posted by photon

It is pretty dark, your change definitely lightens it up and the colour from the mantle is nice. It's interesting how the other stuff in the room takes on a different look with the mantle IMO.

I really like that round light fixture too!

Thanks. Its a north facing room so it is a bit darker which is why we wanted to lighten it up. I replaced the sconces and had an electrician install the wheel light as it is a two story living room and beyond my capabilities. overall a big change to the room.

[Maritime Q-Scout]

Little pro tip:

Samsung Washer Error 4E means the washer isn't getting enough water. Likely means the filters need to be removed and rinsed.

When we redid our laundry area I put slider pads under the washer dryer which made movin the washer very simple. +1 for me.

Then, and this is an important part that I forgot...

Turn the water off before removing the hoses from the washer.

You do that the rest is fairly straight forward. However... one other little thing.

Once you clean the filters and reattach the hoses

Before you push the washer back and use it, turn the water back on.

So for those keeping score it's MQS 1, idiocity 2.

[DeluxeMoustache]

Originally Posted by red sky

Haha thanks that is the before shot.



I should say the original was just not out style. Definitely nothing wrong with it.

Hey red sky, looks good. Seems like there may have been some context in the original deleted post - just out of curiosity, did you do this, or do you happen to have a fireplace tile guy recommendation?

[Wormius]

Any recommendations or what to look for in a stucco company? I think ours in ready to replace. Would like to fine a thorough and reputable place with good finishing.

[red sky]

Originally Posted by DeluxeMoustache

Hey red sky, looks good. Seems like there may have been some context in the original deleted post - just out of curiosity, did you do this, or do you happen to have a fireplace tile guy recommendation?

Yes, thanks and I struggled mightily trying to get the photos up initially so had deleted some of the commentary.

I have limited experience but managed to get this done on my own. The mantel is just pine that I distressed and stained. Definitely not perfect but the distressed factor allowed for some happy accidents.

The tile was 6*24" panels. Given I was doing this myself I bought a 7" wet tile saw as there are a few more projects that I will be able to use it.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I've since grouted the hearth and will do some small touch ups but otherwise it is done.

Edit: so long story short, no I don't know a tile guy

[rain_e]

Red sky you are the tile guy. You have experience and a wet saw. Looks good.

[Calgary14]

Yesterday I noticed one of the baseboards in a room upstairs has cracked and is buckling. It looks like water damage. Right now it’s not wet at all. That room has carpet and it’s not wet either. Checked the attic and nothing I can see. Directly outside the house there is a bit of water draining down the house but not a ton. I assume an eavestrough is plugged but the roof is so high I can’t get up there. I’m hoping it’s a coincidence that’s the same spot inside where the baseboard is cracked but I’m thinking not. Should I call a repair company first or insurance?

[Ahuch]

Originally Posted by Calgary14

Yesterday I noticed one of the baseboards in a room upstairs has cracked and is buckling. It looks like water damage. Right now it’s not wet at all. That room has carpet and it’s not wet either. Checked the attic and nothing I can see. Directly outside the house there is a bit of water draining down the house but not a ton. I assume an eavestrough is plugged but the roof is so high I can’t get up there. I’m hoping it’s a coincidence that’s the same spot inside where the baseboard is cracked but I’m thinking not. Should I call a repair company first or insurance?

Is there an electrical outlet nearby? Maybe crack it open (breaker off first, I'm sure you know that but just in case) and see if you can take a peek around to see if there's moisture indications anywhere.

[Shin Pad]

Originally Posted by Calgary14

Yesterday I noticed one of the baseboards in a room upstairs has cracked and is buckling. It looks like water damage. Right now it’s not wet at all. That room has carpet and it’s not wet either. Checked the attic and nothing I can see. Directly outside the house there is a bit of water draining down the house but not a ton. I assume an eavestrough is plugged but the roof is so high I can’t get up there. I’m hoping it’s a coincidence that’s the same spot inside where the baseboard is cracked but I’m thinking not. Should I call a repair company first or insurance?

Can you pry the baseboard off to check the drywall at the base of the wall? If it is water damage, the bottom of the drywall might also be water damaged. Can you post a picture of it? Also, when you take off the base board, you should be able to lift the carpet at the edge (off of the carpet gripper around the edge) and see if there is any indication of water on the subfloor. If you do have water damage, caused by water running down the side of the house, then you would notice more water damage or stains, than just the damage to the base board.

Also, on the exterior where the water is running down the side of the house, is there a light fixture or any other penetration through the exterior wall (even a window or such)? If the water is running down the wall, it shouldn't get into the house, as you should have some sort of building paper (exterior sheathing membrane) behind the siding or stucco which should keep the water from coming in. The only place that it might come in is through a penetration. Otherwise, someone didn't install the exterior sheathing membrane correctly - is they didn't weather lap it properly, or there is a tear in it.

[red sky]

By chance is there a window above the baseboard?

[sa226]

A picture would definitely help. I do find it slightly weird that a baseboard would be the first indicator of water damage, you would usually see signs before. But you say that it looks like water damage so I believe you.

A random guess is a tight fitting run of baseboard and a shifting house. I've installed some runs of baseboard where I definitely could have taken about 8th of an inch or so off but just jammed it in anyway. There's a lot of pressure on those pieces. If its jointed pine it could buckle. With fluctuating temperatures in Calgary houses shift all the time, we have a couple doors in our house that randomly stick and then swing freely from season to season.

Just tossing it out there.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

[Calgary14]

Thanks I’ll try and post a picture later. No sign of new water today and there is still water running down the house on the exterior. On the inside of the house there are no electrical outlets nearby and no windows. On the exterior there are no windows where it’s running down. I am gonna try to pry off the baseboard soon (2 young kids on my own all day today). The baseboard is really cheap particle board if it helps