The Home Improvement Thread

[I-Hate-Hulse]

Bit of an change of topic here - does anyone here have experience with Telus / Shaw in terms of running service to their rural property for internet access?

The dream is for an acreage in the Invermere area. Going to need solid internet access to the place if this remote work thing is to happen.

From what I understand, pulling power to rural sites is reasonably common place - make sure there's service in the area - pay by the pole for BC Hydro to do the work.

Here's the question - is Telus / Shaw the same? Is there a distance from existing service that would be "too far" for a connection? (to say nothing of cost) I'm assuming Shaw's service would be preferable to Telus's DSL service (I will miss fiber). Any estimates on cost?

[keratosis]

Originally Posted by I-Hate-Hulse

Bit of an change of topic here - does anyone here have experience with Telus / Shaw in terms of running service to their rural property for internet access?

The dream is for an acreage in the Invermere area. Going to need solid internet access to the place if this remote work thing is to happen.

From what I understand, pulling power to rural sites is reasonably common place - make sure there's service in the area - pay by the pole for BC Hydro to do the work.

Here's the question - is Telus / Shaw the same? Is there a distance from existing service that would be "too far" for a connection? (to say nothing of cost) I'm assuming Shaw's service would be preferable to Telus's DSL service (I will miss fiber). Any estimates on cost?

You'll probably have to contact Shaw. But I'm guessing, if they are willing to do it, the cost would be phenomenal. Maybe look into Starlink? You should be able to write off part of the monthly bill.

[speede5]

I lived in the country in Saskatchewan and the only options at the time were wireless broadband. They just aren’t going to run landlines for miles just to service a few people. Sasktel has decent service and price but being a crown part of their mandate was to provide everyone with high speed so they invested quite heavily.

It was fine for working from home and Netflix. Too slow for gaming.

Star link is a game changer. I probably would have switched if I was still there.

[81MC]

I'm looking to add a (space limited) small lean-to on the back side of my garage. It won't even come close to meeting the requirements for permitting, so no worries there.

However, its a small, narrow space - roughly 4' wide x 10' long, from the garage to the chainlink fence that is shared with the side of the neighbours garage.

Because the setup of our two neighbours, no one will see the 'short' side of the lean to unless they're standing between the neighbours garage and the lean-to, likewise with the 'back' side. And the front access side is visible, but only from our yards. It'll store bicycles, garden and seasonal yard equipment and maybe some tools just to free up room in the garage, so it needs to be relatively secure.

Aesthetically speaking, the two sides only need to look decent, but hold up well. I want it to be closed in most of the way, and it'll have sort of a 'barn door' type gate on the front.

My neighbours and I have a great relationship, they're totally fine with my using their side of the fence to construct (access or whatever). It's a tiny lean-to that almost will never be seen, most of which is covered by a chainlink fence anyway.

I have an abundance of construction plywood and 2x4's, so it'll be using that where I can. Just need to make something functional that isn't ugly and keeps the hoodlums and snow/rain out.

Advice on:
Siding/paint? Paint wood to match garage, or splurge on siding?
Columns? Concrete footings needed? Total roof surface area is only ~40Sq.ft
Floor? a few inches of 3/4 gravel over the existing earth?
Weather? With no eave projection, wall right up to roof?

[V]

I put a lean-to on the back of my garage to store firewood. It's about 13' wide and about 8' long. I didn't do any sides to it. I installed 3 of those $25 screw-in pilings you can get at Home Depot/Rona. And then 4x4 posts as columns. It's holding up just fine. Can't help with the rest of your questions.

[Fuzz]

I used the LP smart panels for my shed, available from Timber Town(and others) for I think $40 a 4x8 sheet. That's your simplest bet, as they are also the sheeting. You can't have it in contact with ground though, so some PVC trim (Royal moldings from Lowes) works great to separate from grade.

The problem with not doing footings is it will shift. If you don't care, don't bother. If attached to your garage it may cause issues.

For the floor I'm a big fan of road crush with a compactor. lay in 2" lifts, down to 6-8" should be fine. On the final lift, grab some bags of cement mix, maybe 3 or so, and mix it in. After compacting, wet it down and it will set up real firm, but still allow drainage. Then you could use PT 4x4's to build off of on top of that, or set into it for your base.

[keratosis]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

For the floor I'm a big fan of road crush with a compactor. lay in 2" lifts, down to 6-8" should be fine. On the final lift, grab some bags of cement mix, maybe 3 or so, and mix it in. After compacting, wet it down and it will set up real firm, but still allow drainage. Then you could use PT 4x4's to build off of on top of that, or set into it for your base.

You can also skip a step and just buy crushed concrete from burnco. Lay it down dampen and compact.

[Fuzz]

Good idea too. I like this method, as it's only the top few inches so you retain good drainage below, and it's easy to dig up if needed. But I've never played with the crushed concrete, so maybe it would work the same. Or does it set up in a pretty solid block?

[kevman]

Any reason NOT to get your garage floor coated? We just got a quote from Zone Garage (since there were no other recommendations) and it was much more reasonable than I anticipated.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by kevman

Any reason NOT to get your garage floor coated? We just got a quote from Zone Garage (since there were no other recommendations) and it was much more reasonable than I anticipated.

I'm not coating mine, unfortunately the person who built it didn't put poly underneath and moisture wicks up through it. That would most likely cause any coating to pop and look like hell after a few years. Otherwise I would be all over it.

It is slippery when wet but you can mitigate that in traffic areas with some grit in the coating if you're worried.

[keratosis]

Woops

[keratosis]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Good idea too. I like this method, as it's only the top few inches so you retain good drainage below, and it's easy to dig up if needed. But I've never played with the crushed concrete, so maybe it would work the same. Or does it set up in a pretty solid block?

It will be more firm than plain road crush but not a solid slab. Also a bit more dusty.

[kevman]

Originally Posted by speede5

I'm not coating mine, unfortunately the person who built it didn't put poly underneath and moisture wicks up through it. That would most likely cause any coating to pop and look like hell after a few years. Otherwise I would be all over it.

It is slippery when wet but you can mitigate that in traffic areas with some grit in the coating if you're worried.

You're already seeing moisture or you're concerned about future moisture? We don't have poly under our slab but haven't seen any indication of moisture. I didn't even think about that being a concern to be honest.

[I_H8_Crawford]

Originally Posted by Hemi-Cuda

Looking to get AC installed this year, are there any companies that someone would highly recommend?

I used heating ninja - had the lowest quote and seemed to have the best knowledge. Would use him again.

[DoubleF]

https://www.petetheplumber.com/plumbing/poly-b-pipes/

Has anyone ever had grey pipe remediation done before? Do you have to leave the house due to mess and/or be without water for a few days?

I've had some plumbing repairs a few times now due to grey pipe even with acetal fittings (cost me near $800 so far in the last few years) and I think it's time to bite the bullet and get it sorted out. However, I'm wondering if it's a project where I need to get out of the house for a few days/weeks or if I can just continue to live in the home as normal.

Pete the plumber was awesome when I used them and did great work without punching holes, but when I used a different plumber for another pin hole leak, they left a #### show of a mess and asked for an idiotic fee to patch holes. I'm not even talking I disagree with how they did the work. I'm talking he "mopped" the floor and when I returned it was dirty AF and there were still puddles in the corner. I don't want that type of service as "headache free" or if that's just what it is, I'd like to prep myself and make it easier on the family and contractor by giving them the necessary space to work instead of brute forcing a crappy situation and having to work/live around each other.


Also, I was thinking about getting thermostatic valves installed, but if I do the poly B removal as well as a bathroom reno, who should I be talking to to have the thermostatic valve installed for most effectiveness and/or lower cost? (ie: if they have to poly B remediate and connect to shower/bath, then disconnect to install thermostatic value... or if it's no big deal to access shower/bath later on to do thermostatic value (since it'll be exposed anyways) when swapping in a bath/shower insert.

I'm leaning towards seeing if it can be done during poly B removal. That way any normal contractor or average plumber can basically just reconnect the stuff to a new bath/shower (it's been surprisingly hard to find someone willing to do thermostatic valves).

[Fuzz]

Why get a separate thermostatic valve? When you have your bathroom reno done, have a new fixture put in that has it built in. I have an American Standard, and the valve works great on it. Depending on access, it's probably easiest to leave that poly B until reno time.


EDIT: Jut realized that is different than a pressure balance, which I have. But it also keeps the temperature steady, if that is what you are going for.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by kevman

You're already seeing moisture or you're concerned about future moisture? We don't have poly under our slab but haven't seen any indication of moisture. I didn't even think about that being a concern to be honest.

My garage is 15(?) years old and any time I put a plastic bin or box on the floor when I move it there's moisture there. I'm not a concrete expert by any means but from what research I've done this is just not going to work out well.

Tape a square of poly to the floor on all four sides and see what happens. Whatever you see is what will migrate up and get trapped by your coating.

[timun]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Has anyone ever had grey pipe remediation done before? Do you have to leave the house due to mess and/or be without water for a few days?

[...]

Also, I was thinking about getting thermostatic valves installed, but if I do the poly B removal as well as a bathroom reno, who should I be talking to to have the thermostatic valve installed for most effectiveness and/or lower cost? (ie: if they have to poly B remediate and connect to shower/bath, then disconnect to install thermostatic value... or if it's no big deal to access shower/bath later on to do thermostatic value (since it'll be exposed anyways) when swapping in a bath/shower insert.

I'm leaning towards seeing if it can be done during poly B removal. That way any normal contractor or average plumber can basically just reconnect the stuff to a new bath/shower (it's been surprisingly hard to find someone willing to do thermostatic valves).

Poly B is garbage and you will eventually end up having to replace it all anyway, so if you have the scratch to do it all in one go so much the better to get it all done and over with. Will you need to move out of the house? Probably not, but you'll likely have to stay out of certain rooms in your house as the work gets done and may need to do a bunch of remedial wall and ceiling repairs depends on how your house was built.

If you're already going to the trouble of replacing absolutely all of the Poly B, right up to the mixing valve(s), it's pretty trivial to replace the valve(s) at the same time.

Thermostatic valves are more expensive and a lot less common in homes than pressure-balancing; could be that the contractors you've talked to don't typically procure them and are having a tough time finding available product right now.

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Why get a separate thermostatic valve? When you have your bathroom reno done, have a new fixture put in that has it built in. I have an American Standard, and the valve works great on it. Depending on access, it's probably easiest to leave that poly B until reno time.


EDIT: Jut realized that is different than a pressure balance, which I have. But it also keeps the temperature steady, if that is what you are going for.

FYI pressure-balancing valves do not keep temperature steady; that's what thermostatic valves do. Pressure-balancing ones will keep the differential pressure between hot and cold constant, so that e.g. when you flush a toilet and the cold water pressure at your mixing valve drops, the hot water flow through the valve will also correspondingly drop. That way you don't get scalded while you're in the shower.

But that's all pressure-balancing valves do: keep the differential between the hot and cold water pressures constant. If your hot water temperature stays constant it will keep the supplied temperature at your tub/shower constant, but that's just a side effect of the hot supply being steady. The valve doesn't otherwise control temperature, just pressure. If the capacity of your water heater can't keep up with the rate you're using it the supply temperature from the tank will drop, and the water you get at your tub/shower will get cooler and cooler. The pressure of water supplied from the hot side and the cold sides will be kept the same, so to keep the temperature the same you need to keep twisting the mixer knob to give you more and more hot water.

By contrast a thermostatic valve will keep the temperature supplied from the valve constant, by automatically adjusting the flows of hot & cold water as required. E.g. as your hot water temperature begins to cool as described above it'll open the hot side and close the cold side for you.

[Fuzz]

Ya, I read a bit of that after posting. Maybe I'm just fortunate with my setup and good water pressure, but I've never felt a temperature change at all. Sometimes the pressure drops a touch, but it's not very noticeable, so it works for me.

[timun]

It's more to do with your hot water temperature keeping pretty much constant, because your heater has the recovery capacity to keep up with how quickly you're using it.

It could be that you take relatively mild showers/baths, or keep the time length of your bath/showers relatively short.