01-15-2018, 02:36 PM
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#1641
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Franchise Player
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It's never too late to run them up the wall. It can certainly be done as long as you have a spare tile. Or most people just build an mdf box to hide the pipes. Paint it wall color and it kind of goes away.
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01-15-2018, 02:55 PM
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#1642
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere down the crazy river.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
I don't think there are any codes you would be violating by covering them in a creative fasion but I don't know what's out there that would work. You might be able to find a larger diameter pipe and slide it over them, a chrome rod of some sort. You might have to remove the shut offs and re crimp to do so.
A lot of people don't know but you really shouldn't have pex exposed as it is a form of plastic and susceptible to UV. Over time (probably many many years) it can degrade and be at risk, particularly if in direct sunlight.
Have you thought of a pedestal sink just to hide the lines? Most wall mounts are sold in two pieces, and you can buy one or both.
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That's interesting. I thought only the PolyB was at risk of deteriorating. Hopefully there is not risk for UV damage anyway, since its a windowless guest bathroom.
Yeah, I guess I could slide over some large diameter copper pipe or chrome plated stuff.
Ah, just found this:
https://www.ferguson.com/product/pro...3?skuId=402243
I guess I just want to make sure that concealing the pex won't cause anybody any grief later on.
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01-15-2018, 10:00 PM
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#1643
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: California
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Plumbing question.
My basement bathroom is finished with a toilet and sink. The taps and shower head for a shower wee installed the shower pan and drain piping to the rough in were not.
A few questions
1) If I install a shower do I need a permit to install the P-trap and connect the pan to the roughed in drain.
2) id rather install a bath tub. Can you use a shower spaced rough in and go overflow into a 90 to a Tee which has the drain which then flows into the ptrap and rough in. Essentially the rough in is located 12-14" from the wall whereas the tub needs 4" from the wall. Is there a way to do this to code without busting out concrete and moving the rough in
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01-15-2018, 11:44 PM
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#1644
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First Line Centre
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You should have a building permit for the bathroom in general.
The shower rough in should be a p trap. I’m assuming you have a 2” pipe sticking out the floor. There should be a p at the bottom. If not you have to bust the concrete anyway.
Bust the concrete out and run across to your shower drain. Remove that p trap and put one below the tub. It’s a couple hours extra work and no headaches. Rent a hilti and bash away. It’s really not that hard.
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01-29-2018, 11:00 PM
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#1645
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Voted for Kodos
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Once again I'm thankful that the previous homeowner was utterly terrible at installing tile. I shouldn't be able to remove an entire bathrooms worth of tile in 5 minutes, and scrape the subfloor bare in another 10.
Oh well, makes replacing the flooring much easier.
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01-30-2018, 06:36 AM
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#1646
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First Line Centre
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Make sure you wear a mask, the dust from the mortar and grout is not good for you. Usually contains a healthy amount of silica.
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01-30-2018, 09:27 AM
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#1647
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Voted for Kodos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
Make sure you wear a mask, the dust from the mortar and grout is not good for you. Usually contains a healthy amount of silica.
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There was barely any dust. But certainly something to think about.
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01-30-2018, 10:17 AM
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#1648
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Franchise Player
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It's worth repeating: protect yourself when doing home projects. I'm mad at my younger self for being so willy nilly with safety, especially at home and especially with my eyes, lungs and ears.
There's no doubt in my mind I have some hearing loss. Luckily no eye injuries, but I'm worried about my lungs. I'd never wear masks for any job.
I take safety a lot more seriously now. You only have one body, protect it! Wear PPE, and don't take short cuts, ever.
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01-30-2018, 10:31 AM
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#1649
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere down the crazy river.
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So, the guy who did our tiling did a pretty crappy job and I highly doubt he'll come back to fix anything. My big problems are some chipping/flaking along some of the cuts to some ceramic tiles. Without tearing them out, is there a coating or some kind of enamel paint that would look okay? The tile is like a faux marble, but underneath is the typical reddish clay material.
Also - can silicone be applied over silicone? They used a bit of clear silicone and it looks bad around the tub, I think white would probably look better.
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01-30-2018, 10:54 AM
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#1650
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First Line Centre
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I hate clay tile for that reason. you can try some paint and it might last a while. Not much else you can do with that.
The transition should be done with translucent caulking for best results. Clear shows the stark contrast behind and white is too stark. Translucent gives a nice fade between the two surfaces. you can try going over it but its really not that hard to scrape it off and redo. Use a good firm plastic scraper and don't worry if it's not perfect, the caulking will bond. Just make sure it's clean and dry.
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01-30-2018, 11:29 PM
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#1651
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Voted for Kodos
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I do love the Torlys Evertile LVT product I've now put in two bathrooms.
Easy to install, no glue, grout, anything. It clicks together and floats on the subfloor. Easy to cut with a band saw/ jig saw.
Completely impervious to water, and has a little bit of give, thanks to a cork backing. It's not cold, like ceramic tile. I can't think of any drawbacks.
Took me about 4 hours of work to reinstall the new floor today, and. That would have been shorter if my cutting station was closer than in my detached garage - 30 feet from my house.
I can't believe that the tile that was there didn't have more cracking, there was barely any mortar, I think I could have taken every tile out in one piece. Probably could have reused the tiles.
That reminds me of another thing with this LVT, if I ever had a problem, I could remove the whole floor, fix a problem, and then simply put everything back together exactly the way it was.
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01-31-2018, 06:10 PM
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#1652
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by You Need a Thneed
I do love the Torlys Evertile LVT product I've now put in two bathrooms.
Easy to install, no glue, grout, anything. It clicks together and floats on the subfloor. Easy to cut with a band saw/ jig saw.
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Interesting stuff; how is it impervious to water if it clicks together and isn't grouted? By definition, and sort of mechanical connection like that wouldn't be waterproof.
How much "float" is there to it? Brings back bad memories of everyone's early 2000s laminate installs.
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01-31-2018, 08:48 PM
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#1653
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Scoring Winger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducay
Interesting stuff; how is it impervious to water if it clicks together and isn't grouted? By definition, and sort of mechanical connection like that wouldn't be waterproof.
How much "float" is there to it? Brings back bad memories of everyone's early 2000s laminate installs.
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I’m just coming off installing some of this newer Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) in my bedrooms and it is so much better than the early laminate you remember. I installed that stuff in my previous house and this new LVP and LVT is not even a comparison in looks or feel.
I got click together stuff over a thin foam pad and it installs just like that old laminate. But it feels so much softer and warmer. And it looks way better. And the material itself is literally waterproof. I can’t say for sure if water would make it through the joints but in my floor it looks extremely tight fitting, I doubt water would make it through.
It’s not really cheap in price either, I paid $4 sq/ft for my LVP’s. For me having kids it was a choice of being extremely low maintenance. I would not put LVT up against some of the more expensive tile but as more of an upgrade on sheet vinyl or cheaper tile. And there is vinyl tile you can buy that you grout just like tile.
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02-01-2018, 05:36 PM
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#1654
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Voted for Kodos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducay
Interesting stuff; how is it impervious to water if it clicks together and isn't grouted? By definition, and sort of mechanical connection like that wouldn't be waterproof.
How much "float" is there to it? Brings back bad memories of everyone's early 2000s laminate installs.
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The click joints are rubber and extremely tight. You need to use an offset tool and a rubber mallet (striking quite hard) to actually get the joints together. Water can't get through.
Your subfloor needs to be pretty smooth. But the floor simply sits on top of your subfloor. It can move slightly with expansion and contraction, but it's not going to move. The product is thick enough and stiff enough that they are always going to lie flat.
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02-02-2018, 01:41 PM
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#1655
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere down the crazy river.
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Does recessed lighting used over a bathtub/shower need any special ratings for water or moisture resistance, or can you install whatever you like?
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02-02-2018, 01:50 PM
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#1656
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Monster Storm
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Calgary
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You need a waterproof housing. There are special lights for water areas
__________________
Shameless self promotion
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02-02-2018, 01:57 PM
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#1657
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Franchise Player
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My ceiling fan is now making a scraping-like sound inside when it runs. Last time we used it months ago, nothing. Now scraping sounds. Anyone? Replace it?
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02-02-2018, 02:15 PM
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#1658
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Lifetime Suspension
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Calgary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyGuy
My ceiling fan is now making a scraping-like sound inside when it runs. Last time we used it months ago, nothing. Now scraping sounds. Anyone? Replace it?
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easier to buy earplugs.
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02-02-2018, 03:34 PM
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#1659
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First Line Centre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wormius
Does recessed lighting used over a bathtub/shower need any special ratings for water or moisture resistance, or can you install whatever you like?
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Most of the modern LED recessed lights at the big box stores should be rated for an above shower install.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.p...001009078.html
These are great lights to use. They come in different sizes, colour and lumens. Easy to install and have a very clean finish look. Dimmable, IC and wet location rated.
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02-02-2018, 04:56 PM
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#1660
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere down the crazy river.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevman
Most of the modern LED recessed lights at the big box stores should be rated for an above shower install.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.p...001009078.html
These are great lights to use. They come in different sizes, colour and lumens. Easy to install and have a very clean finish look. Dimmable, IC and wet location rated.
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Thanks. I had picked up some from Costco months ago and am using them in some other areas, but wasn’t sure if I could them right above the bath. I will have to check again. I would rather use the same ones everywhere in the bathroom, so maybe I will return them and use ones that are damp rated. I will probably wait on installing them. I don’t feel like moving around the attic at these temperatures.
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