Cycling Thread

[ranchlandsselling]

How are people getting downtown from SE Calgary? With the path washed out just south of Glenmore (as of last Tuesday June 3rd) I've been going parallel to deerfoot, east over glenmore, along the path, 62nd ave, millican road, ogden road, then the ogden road bridge and along the tracks through to Inglewood.

I can see path across the river but have no idea how to get there or if it would get me anywhere I want to go. I'm guessing it used to connect to the path under ogden road bridge prior to it being washed out.

Any other routes from 24th street or around southcentre Volkswagen/woodridge ford?

Also my gears keep slipping. I'll be riding and go to peddle hard to get through an intersection, or after gently/slowly passing someone I'll hammer the pedals to get up to speed and the chain seems to slip out of gear and into a lesser gear or another spokey thing (what ever the chain travels along). I had it in for a tune recently but it's always seemed to do this. Actually come to think of it my road bike (I'm talking about a mountain bike) does it too. I've almost bailed because of it, slipped on my handle bars, it's worse if I'm standing, or acutally riding a trail and need the pedal stroke, if it slips I lose all power and sometimes can't climb the steep incline I was about to go up, or corner, or embankment etc. It's also a little embarrassing.

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by AcGold

Well I completely took the bike apart, getting the bottom bracket off was a complete nightmare. Got it undone eventually and put in a new bottom bracket as it was completely shot, unbelievable how dirty the inside of the bracket hub was, dozens of towels and it just kept being dirty.

Cleaned up the whole thing, put on new brakes and new pedals. Going to get a new fork in a week or two, disc breaks, paint it and then it's good to go. I know a new bike is tempting but I've spent $200 on all the tools and pieces so far and another $500 to get the exact bike I want is worth it if it gives me another decade or two of transportation. Don't know if it's possible to get as durable a bike for the same $500 as a new fork and discs. Thanks for the help guys. I'll post a picture of the fork, stem and headset I have when I get them together to see what I need to do. Cheers

Right on man. If the Frames solid no need for a new bike. In the end you'll spend the same but now you'll have something different than everyone else on the road. And you have All the tools on top of that and the knowledge/satisfaction of having tore down and built something special. Its like buying and restoring an old car.Also always remember that pedels and the bottom bracket are reverse threads in the left hand side. They need to be tighten left and lossened right .

[Northendzone]

Originally Posted by combustiblefuel

If the Frames solid no need for a new bike. In the end you'll spend the same.......

i disagree with this completely - upgrading an older bike to run new technology will always be more expensive in the long run.

the OP has said he wants to upgrade to disc brakes - assuming he means hydraulic ones - to do this he must get a new fork (which he is going to do anyways), new hubs, rotors and the brakes themselves and possibly new shifters depending on what he is currently running and maybe new skewers if you opt for the new "Maxaxles", - plus somewhow set up for discs on the back end.

To me this is easily going to run him $500 plus the cost of the fork if he goes for low end stuff. if he opts for middle of the road then it will likely be $1,000 or more.

If he opts to build up the bike and just upgrade his parts (iei go for a set of XTR/XT level v-brakes, XT/XTR shifters etc) then it is likely a better value rather than trying to fit new technology on an old bike.

building up a bike can be fun, but it can also get expensive and frustrating quickly............i am just rying to urge him to really think about how he goes about this project.

good luck to the OP on whichever route he selects. i get the cachet of having a unique bike, but even though there are lots of rocky Mountains on the showroom floor of local shops, i have yet to come across one like mine while on the trail......

[AcGold]

I am not 100% set on the discs, what it really boils down to is durability. Is there a bike that I can ride in the mountains and the city for 15 years and still have a perfectly straight frame? If I could find one equally as durable for a comparable price I'd consider it, going to go check out the bikes they put together at the co-op tomorrow to see if they have any good deals. As I see it there's 3 options;

i)new fork, discs, repaint
ii)new fork (that uses v-brake)
iii)new bike

I think option 1 is possible for under $500 with average parts

[Coys1882]

Originally Posted by ranchlandsselling

How are people getting downtown from SE Calgary? With the path washed out just south of Glenmore (as of last Tuesday June 3rd) I've been going parallel to deerfoot, east over glenmore, along the path, 62nd ave, millican road, ogden road, then the ogden road bridge and along the tracks through to Inglewood.

I can see path across the river but have no idea how to get there or if it would get me anywhere I want to go. I'm guessing it used to connect to the path under ogden road bridge prior to it being washed out.

Any other routes from 24th street or around southcentre Volkswagen/woodridge ford?

Also my gears keep slipping. I'll be riding and go to peddle hard to get through an intersection, or after gently/slowly passing someone I'll hammer the pedals to get up to speed and the chain seems to slip out of gear and into a lesser gear or another spokey thing (what ever the chain travels along). I had it in for a tune recently but it's always seemed to do this. Actually come to think of it my road bike (I'm talking about a mountain bike) does it too. I've almost bailed because of it, slipped on my handle bars, it's worse if I'm standing, or acutally riding a trail and need the pedal stroke, if it slips I lose all power and sometimes can't climb the steep incline I was about to go up, or corner, or embankment etc. It's also a little embarrassing.

I'd send Pylon a PM so he comes here to look - he seems pretty savvy with repairs/tuneups.

[habernac]

how old is your chain? Your cog set? They could be worn out.

[ranchlandsselling]

Originally Posted by habernac

how old is your chain? Your cog set? They could be worn out.

Bike is 3 years old, haven't used much and had tuned in April at bow cycle. I've now ridden to and from work 5 times since having it tuned, you'd think the shop would have jumped to replace parts that were near expiration (they might have, I can't remember what was done, but I paid about $350 to tune two bikes).

[Northendzone]

Originally Posted by AcGold

I am not 100% set on the discs, what it really boils down to is durability. Is there a bike that I can ride in the mountains and the city for 15 years and still have a perfectly straight frame? If I could find one equally as durable for a comparable price I'd consider it, going to go check out the bikes they put together at the co-op tomorrow to see if they have any good deals. As I see it there's 3 options;

i)new fork, discs, repaint
ii)new fork (that uses v-brake)
iii)new bike

I think option 1 is possible for under $500 with average parts

I wonder what your fork options will be like given you need brake bosses.

durability is a long term question, so for a frame, that is hard to answer. to me hydralic brakes have been around long enough that there should be no question about durability especially if you are going with shimano slx,xt or xtr......

I'd imagine for a new bike you'd have to look in the $1,200 range to get a nice mix of components and a solid frame. that price range would be for a hardtail though. To go F/S you are likely looking at $1,800.

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by Coys1882

I'd send Pylon a PM so he comes here to look - he seems pretty savvy with repairs/tuneups.

Take out a few links off your chain to add some tension. If its skipping gears the derailuer limiters need to be adjusted.

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by Northendzone

i disagree with this completely - upgrading an older bike to run new technology will always be more expensive in the long run.

the OP has said he wants to upgrade to disc brakes - assuming he means hydraulic ones - to do this he must get a new fork (which he is going to do anyways), new hubs, rotors and the brakes themselves and possibly new shifters depending on what he is currently running and maybe new skewers if you opt for the new "Maxaxles", - plus somewhow set up for discs on the back end.

To me this is easily going to run him $500 plus the cost of the fork if he goes for low end stuff. if he opts for middle of the road then it will likely be $1,000 or more.

If he opts to build up the bike and just upgrade his parts (iei go for a set of XTR/XT level v-brakes, XT/XTR shifters etc) then it is likely a better value rather than trying to fit new technology on an old bike.

building up a bike can be fun, but it can also get expensive and frustrating quickly............i am just rying to urge him to really think about how he goes about this project.

good luck to the OP on whichever route he selects. i get the cachet of having a unique bike, but even though there are lots of rocky Mountains on the showroom floor of local shops, i have yet to come across one like mine while on the trail......

I disagree you can easily get that bike running for $500 with new tech. I would say Hydro's are over kill for commuting. Amazon is a great place to shop for bike parts.My rear was going to be over $200 if I got it from any shop. Got it for $70 with next day shipping. You just have to be willing to hunt the deals down.

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by ranchlandsselling

Bike is 3 years old, haven't used much and had tuned in April at bow cycle. I've now ridden to and from work 5 times since having it tuned, you'd think the shop would have jumped to replace parts that were near expiration (they might have, I can't remember what was done, but I paid about $350 to tune two bikes).

Sounds like you had the complete over hauls done. Usually $180 per bike for a shop to do it.
Which would of been complete tear down , degrease , regrease , built back up and wheels trued. Does sound like the shifting limiters just are a little off and chain tightened.

[Northendzone]

Originally Posted by combustiblefuel

I disagree you can easily get that bike running for $500 with new tech. I would say Hydro's are over kill for commuting. Amazon is a great place to shop for bike parts.My rear was going to be over $200 if I got it from any shop. Got it for $70 with next day shipping. You just have to be willing to hunt the deals down.

As I understand the situation, his bike currently has v-brakes/cantilevers.....to upgrade to hydro he will need:

. Brake assemblies -$100 each x2 for something equal to slx, could go with avid elixir 3 for somewhere around $35 x 2
. Rotors $20 to $50 each depending on make model x 2
. New hubs or wheel set because the old one were not built for hydros
. New fork to support hydro's
. Whatever to mount hydros in rear

Might be able to go with a mix of used and low end stuff to make this happen for less than $500 - but then why do it.........

[Wormius]

I haven't played around with disc brakes, but is it worth it for a bike? I am pretty satisfied with the simplicity of v-brakes. I guess the advantage would be your rims getting banged up a bit doesn't affect your braking.

[AcGold]

or the thought gnawing at you that the pads are rubbing against the rim ever so slightly

[Timbo]

Originally Posted by Wormius

I haven't played around with disc brakes, but is it worth it for a bike? I am pretty satisfied with the simplicity of v-brakes. I guess the advantage would be your rims getting banged up a bit doesn't affect your braking.

For me... It came with the bike I purchased and I like them. They work very well when I apply one or both in a quick stop situation. Better than the disks I had on my entry/mid level 2006 Mountain bike however I have much better components.
2014 Kona Jake the Snake

Is it worth it... well IMO you can have just as much fun on a bike with them as one without them. I am a recreational cyclist and I am sure cantilever brakes would still serve me proper.
If you are high performance... they might mean more of a difference.

[Northendzone]

Hydros are far more powerful, of corse they are more complicated internally, so a trail side repair would be difficult. Changing the pads is about the same amount of effort, although pads for discs are more money.

Disc brakes are far better in wet conditions, and if you go biking at a ski resort, then hydros are pretty much a must....

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by Wormius

I haven't played around with disc brakes, but is it worth it for a bike? I am pretty satisfied with the simplicity of v-brakes. I guess the advantage would be your rims getting banged up a bit doesn't affect your braking.

Disc brakes are the standard for off road rides. You can get away with mechanical discs for light trail riding. Hydro's are for medium/ hardcore trails. If your riding roads to commute mechanical discs/u brakes/ v brakes are just fine. After all when's the last time you saw a top of the line road bikes with discs?

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by AcGold

or the thought gnawing at you that the pads are rubbing against the rim ever so slightly

You still have that with disc brakes. Rotors get hit from falling or peoples tires at bike racks nailing them. Fixing a rotor is harder than just taking a spoke wrench and trueing your wheel.

[worth]

I'm 563km into what will likely be a 2000km trip to Saigon.

I've Averaged about 80km a day which I think is good for me. Cycling has been great. Road has been great and the people are friendly.

Sorry for large pics.

Spoiler!

[pylon]

I envy you.