My hose bib won't turn back on.
Does it just take a long time for the water to flow through the line or am I doing something wrong?
You might want pull it apart and take a look. make sure the line leading to the outside faucet is turned off first.
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Thanks all. Don’t have the most time as we have our first child on the way so was looking for something easy. Going to have a 10mm rundle rock pad made and was going to drop something in there .
For anyone with a composite deck how well does it hold up to shoveling snow and what sort of words of caution can you share? At some point I will redo our deck with composite but we have a rear garage and cross the deck to get from the house to garage and as such in the winter I am always clearing it off. I use a typical plastic shovel that has a steel blade on the edge. With our wood deck the shovel sometimes gouges the boards. Does the composite hold up better? Would it best to just use a full plastic shovel on that stuff? Anything else to be aware of?
For anyone with a composite deck how well does it hold up to shoveling snow and what sort of words of caution can you share? At some point I will redo our deck with composite but we have a rear garage and cross the deck to get from the house to garage and as such in the winter I am always clearing it off. I use a typical plastic shovel that has a steel blade on the edge. With our wood deck the shovel sometimes gouges the boards. Does the composite hold up better? Would it best to just use a full plastic shovel on that stuff? Anything else to be aware of?
We just did our deck last summer with composite, same setup as you with rear detached garage. I found it easier to shovel as snow/ice came off cleaner than our old wood deck, just used a plastic shovel with no metal leading edge, not sure if would gouge it or not, but it certainly wasn't necessary to clear the path.
For anyone with a composite deck how well does it hold up to shoveling snow and what sort of words of caution can you share? At some point I will redo our deck with composite but we have a rear garage and cross the deck to get from the house to garage and as such in the winter I am always clearing it off. I use a typical plastic shovel that has a steel blade on the edge. With our wood deck the shovel sometimes gouges the boards. Does the composite hold up better? Would it best to just use a full plastic shovel on that stuff? Anything else to be aware of?
Use plastic. Nothing with a metal guard. If the snow gets stuck, just skim the top and when a chinook hits, you should be able to push off a sheet of ice right off of the deck without too much difficulty. This is what I do on my parents' composite deck.
But in all honesty, I have Duradeck myself and with a plastic shovel, it's much easier than composite or wood decks to clear the snow/ice and I like it much more in the summer.
For anyone with a composite deck how well does it hold up to shoveling snow and what sort of words of caution can you share? At some point I will redo our deck with composite but we have a rear garage and cross the deck to get from the house to garage and as such in the winter I am always clearing it off. I use a typical plastic shovel that has a steel blade on the edge. With our wood deck the shovel sometimes gouges the boards. Does the composite hold up better? Would it best to just use a full plastic shovel on that stuff? Anything else to be aware of?
We just redid our deck last summer too. Second the comment about using a plastic shovel. It held up to shoveling well but we're a little disappointed there are some scratches from chairs etc. We didn't really think about that when we bought, but the brand we purchased has a relatively smooth surface which is great for looks and walking on but is going to show every little scratch. I had just assumed the surface would be harder/tougher and would resist this. Maybe it's like a new car, that first little scuff on the paint hurts but you don't even notice after awhile and it sill looks good.
Use plastic. Nothing with a metal guard. If the snow gets stuck, just skim the top and when a chinook hits, you should be able to push off a sheet of ice right off of the deck without too much difficulty. This is what I do on my parents' composite deck.
But in all honesty, I have Duradeck myself and with a plastic shovel, it's much easier than composite or wood decks to clear the snow/ice and I like it much more in the summer.
I should definitely look into duradek at some point because I have this preconceived notion in my mind that it provides a cheap lino look. My only experience with seeing those types of installations was about 20 years ago and that type of product has probably improved quite a bit since. I'm also concerned with low spots forming and resulting in pools of water when it rains or the snow melts (ice in the winter.)
I should definitely look into duradek at some point because I have this preconceived notion in my mind that it provides a cheap lino look. My only experience with seeing those types of installations was about 20 years ago and that type of product has probably improved quite a bit since. I'm also concerned with low spots forming and resulting in pools of water when it rains or the snow melts (ice in the winter.)
I have 20-30 year old Duradeck and I took a look at the newer stuff at this years home and garden show. It's thicker, almost twice as thick and has the options for textured (but I presume you'll want non/less-textured if you shovel). It does have a slight vinyl look, but after a while, I actually prefer it to the look of the traditional deck. It feels more like a patio than a deck when it's installed. The newer stuff has different prints and textures which might help.
I've never had major issues with pools of water, but your concerns about pooled water isn't totally invalid. I don't have any sections where the deck is lower though. Just normal pooling of water like any flat surface without gaps.
It's pretty easy to push off with a sweeper or a plastic shovel which is what I do. You'd have to ask the Duradeck guys, but I think one of the options they said is to slope the deck a little bit so that the water drains off of the deck. But again, even if it doesn't you can push it off with a sweeper.
I also find the deck isn't has hot as some other decks out there. I highly recommend lighter colors vs darker colors for the deck regardless of what type of deck you get.
Anyone know what roughly per square foot a deck should cost given inflation over the past year? My buddies who own a lumber yard said treated lumber is quite a bit lower than last year but the quote we got was high.
For reference its about 325 square feet with 2 stairs around one side and a picture frame border. Standard footings, 20mm gravel, etc.
Does yours get hot? My neighbour put it in and his south facing deck was so hot he had to wear sandals whenever he went out there.
I built a south facing composite deck last year using TREX Enhance.
You definitely need flip flops on hot sunny days.
We have a shaded pergola which helps, but yeah my kids learned the hard way and tip-toe sprinted back into the house to grab sandals more than a few times.
The color we chose was more of a medium shade. I was told lighter shades are better for heat and darker ones worse.
Does yours get hot? My neighbour put it in and his south facing deck was so hot he had to wear sandals whenever he went out there.
My parents got a medium grey composite deck installed, south facing. It gets warm, but I don't recall too many sandal days for last summer. I'd often just spray water to cool it down if needed. Hotter than wood for sure, though.
My duradeck is white in color, so it doesn't absorb too much heat. But if you had a darker color, I wouldn't be surprised if it got warm. Spraying water to cool it would help, but be careful it doesn't get slippery. Mine gets slippery if it's a little wet because my kids love pouring bubble mix on the deck. So it's soap slippery. The deck rarely gets really slippery due solely to water though. It's easy enough to use a squeegee or sweeper to push off the water to avoid that though.
My hose bib won't turn back on.
Does it just take a long time for the water to flow through the line or am I doing something wrong?
Quote:
Originally Posted by topfiverecords
Water should be pressured to the valve at all times unless you have a shutoff anywhere along the line. My first three thoughts are a clog, a break somewhere between the handle and the valve, a break on the line (eek!).
Yeah, unless there's a separate shutoff further up the line, the hose bibb should have water at the ready.
Winsor_Pilates: presuming you don't have a huge leak in the house, it's probably a broken valve stem.
This is going to be the year I defeat the creeping bellflower in my front yard. I started by completely pulling up the lawn, digging a foot down, removing all plant matter I could find, then doing a second pass where I went through all the dirt in detail, finding hopefully all of the rhizomes and as much of the roots I could find.
I've got micro-clover to put down, and at this point I have a couple options. Either:
a) wait a couple weeks, and see what re-emerges in the lawn area. Maybe even water it to speed it up. If the bellflower's first response to the sort of extensive attack is to send up shoots to the surface, this would be good in helping me find any remaining bits of it. However, if the bellflower's response is to regrow the root network, then I'm not really any further ahead.
b) Plant the clover now, so that it's got the best chance to establish itself before the bellflower has a chance to regroup, and of course watch really carefully for bellflower leaves, and aggressively digging up whole rhizomes any time they emerge, and reseeding clover over the patch I dug up.
Anyone got enough experience with bellflower to recommend an approach here?
I use a Wilson kill all the things spray, I've successfully eliminated them from my alley area with no digging. You could spray individual leaves as they appear.
This is going to be the year I defeat the creeping bellflower in my front yard. I started by completely pulling up the lawn, digging a foot down, removing all plant matter I could find, then doing a second pass where I went through all the dirt in detail, finding hopefully all of the rhizomes and as much of the roots I could find.
I've got micro-clover to put down, and at this point I have a couple options. Either:
a) wait a couple weeks, and see what re-emerges in the lawn area. Maybe even water it to speed it up. If the bellflower's first response to the sort of extensive attack is to send up shoots to the surface, this would be good in helping me find any remaining bits of it. However, if the bellflower's response is to regrow the root network, then I'm not really any further ahead.
b) Plant the clover now, so that it's got the best chance to establish itself before the bellflower has a chance to regroup, and of course watch really carefully for bellflower leaves, and aggressively digging up whole rhizomes any time they emerge, and reseeding clover over the patch I dug up.
Anyone got enough experience with bellflower to recommend an approach here?
Kill the bellflower first. I have been told that 24d is effective on it. What I recommend you do is buy this:
Then you can mix up really strong 24d. I used double strength to kill off dandelions two years ago and it did an amazing job. You might want to use triple strength to teach those bellflowers who's boss.
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Yeah, unless there's a separate shutoff further up the line, the hose bibb should have water at the ready.
Winsor_Pilates: presuming you don't have a huge leak in the house, it's probably a broken valve stem.
Yeah, if the OP ensured the water lines are turned back on inside their mechanical room, they should check the water meter; if it’s spinning like crazy and the water isn’t coming the bibb, that doesn’t sound good.
