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Old 08-24-2018, 04:37 PM   #101
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I would try for a boneyard find first.

Would be way cheaper.

Bucks auto has a 2007 and a 2010 Vibe model in their yard right now...
and a 2006 Toyota Matrix.
Disagree. Obviously the boneyard is way cheaper ($25 vs. $125), but for the amount of time you have to spend slogging through the yard to find one, then you have to actually remove it yourself, cross your fingers that it's decent, then install it, a rebuilt is a way better option for things like alternators and starters.

There are dozens of shops around town that sell rebuilts. Most of them are east of Deerfoot, but there's one on 41 Ave, between Centre St and Edmonton Tr, for a north central option.
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:56 PM   #102
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The only way you should grab a salvage yard alternator is if you see it's a recently replaced Denso reman, which is a rare find. Go with Altstart or otherwise new which will be $200 for a Denso.
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:41 PM   #103
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I have 3.55s right now, and it's pretty stout.
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Old 08-25-2018, 08:16 AM   #104
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Speaking of shifters, has anyone put a short throw in a mustang (2003)? I have the stock shifter and 2-3 is a long reach and I come up a bit short occasionally when I'm really givin er.

Or I could just take the cheap option and move the seat fwd.


I put a mgw short throw shifter in my 03 cobra a few years back, made for a huge difference and was a pretty simple instal.
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Old 08-25-2018, 12:59 PM   #105
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To bring this thread down a notch or 2. We're thinking of getting a third vehicle.

My daily driver is a older 4runner and its a great workhorse that I would like to keep as long as I can. I have some mechanical know how, so I like to do what work I can on it. But when I do, I am vehicle-less. If I need to run for another part or tool, or I don't get it finished before I have to go to work, im hooped. So ive started looking for a cheapo, reliable commuter car. Sub 3000$.

Im curious what makes people have experience with? I say anything Toyota will last forever. Then I see these awesome old Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town cars that look to be in amazing shape. Im not a "car guy" so I don't care if im seen about town driving a Grandma-mobile. My only gripe is visible body rust. It looks aweful.

I had a neighbour with 500000km on an older VW Golf. Ive heard of some Fords going forever.

Im leaning towards a Camry/ Corolla or an Accord, but would like to hear other opinions.

Also, anyone know of a shop that will do work with customer supplied parts?
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Old 08-25-2018, 01:52 PM   #106
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Toyota went through a period of relative suck between about 2002-2010 so keep that mind.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:36 PM   #107
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Yeah I certainly wouldn't blanket a single brand as reliable as most have had their issues. Look at a few specific models and years, check reliability on the high mileage reviews, other than just assuming one brand is bulletproof. I had a 2004 Toyota that failed after 60,000 kms.
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:02 AM   #108
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I'm trying to figure out a cross reference for tires for my Honda element but I am not well versed in this.


guy is selling 99 Honda Odyssey tires 215 70 R16 on rims.



This cross reference chart shows this for 2006 Honda element




Is this a no go as the hub size is slightly larger on the odyssey?





MODEL YEAR O.E. WHEEL SIZE BOLT PATTERN
STUD SIZE HUB/CENTER BORE OFFSET


ELEMENT 03-10 16″-18″ 5×114.3 12×1.5 64.1 H


ODYSSEY 95-04 15″-16″ 5×114.3 12×1.5 70.3 H
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:05 AM   #109
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cant seem to edit for some reason.


here is the webpage I pulled the info from



http://www.wheelsupport.com/honda-bolt-patterns/
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:19 AM   #110
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You can buy hub centric rings to cover the difference between the 70.3 CB and 64.1. I prefer to buy the right hub bore, but it doesn't matter that much.
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Old 08-27-2018, 10:38 AM   #111
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You can buy hub centric rings to cover the difference between the 70.3 CB and 64.1. I prefer to buy the right hub bore, but it doesn't matter that much.
This is correct. You can buy a hub bore bigger then you have, just never smaller. I would say about half the population on aftermarket rims is running hub centric rings. If you aren’t taking the element to the track or doing autoX comps I think you’ll be alright with rings.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:39 PM   #112
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And just a super quick heads up regarding spot on hub sizing. I personally was putting wheels on a vehicle, where one hub was milled just a hair too small. It went on okay, and even took torque properly, but it was not sitting flush against the hub. The gap was so small it could have gone unnoticed, but no doubt would have ended up very poorly.
Probably 1 in 1000, but just be mindful.
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:09 PM   #113
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While I decide whether to remove my front license plate holder (I'm scared it's scratched badly behind it, is that a thing?), lets discuss rear license plate frames.

Simple chrome to match the trim? Car color? Something extolling the virtues of your car's model/brand?

I'm kinda liking this one though the black wouldn't really go on my car I don't think.

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Old 09-04-2018, 10:48 PM   #114
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Question, changed fuel filter in truck tonight. It was pretty much plugged solid

Anyway, I put the new one in; reversed and primed it for leaks and turned it on and off 4 times but didn’t drive it anywhere. Realized my mistake and went out and changed the filter to the right flow position and primed again for leaks

I don’t think I would have damaged or risked the system by having the filter flow reversed for just priming would I?
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Old 09-05-2018, 12:31 AM   #115
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Should be fine
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Old 09-05-2018, 12:41 AM   #116
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While I decide whether to remove my front license plate holder (I'm scared it's scratched badly behind it, is that a thing?), lets discuss rear license plate frames.

Simple chrome to match the trim? Car color? Something extolling the virtues of your car's model/brand?

I'm kinda liking this one though the black wouldn't really go on my car I don't think.

I had decided I would give Universal Ford some advertising, since I really liked the job they did getting my car in. I had seen plate holders of theirs that are mostly black with red writing, that looked much like the Deadpool one up there, with metallic red writing. I was ok with that, esp as my car is black from front to back, no chrome, nothing. Just black.

The holder they put on was reflective silver (like a polished metal mirror) and clashed with everything about the car.

Went to Canadian Tire, got a $10 plain black holder and have used that ever since.

Last edited by WhiteTiger; 09-05-2018 at 03:26 AM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 02:51 AM   #117
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Yeah I just use a plain black one too
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:43 AM   #118
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Seems to be ok with reversing the fuel filter. immediate difference in the truck since changing that and a new air filter
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:18 AM   #119
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While I decide whether to remove my front license plate holder (I'm scared it's scratched badly behind it, is that a thing?), lets discuss rear license plate frames.

Simple chrome to match the trim? Car color? Something extolling the virtues of your car's model/brand?

I'm kinda liking this one though the black wouldn't really go on my car I don't think.

I took mine off before I drove off the dealers lot...

They weren't impressed.
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:47 AM   #120
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I wish I only had a license plate holder from the dealer, my dealer put on actual sticky letters above the model on the trunk lid! I mean they're chrome so they almost look like OEM letters so I give them some credit for effort, but that's on my list too is to try and remove them. I assume they're just stickers so I'm hoping I can just rip them off and use goof off to remove any residue.
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