I haven't read all the posts in this thread, just enough to know what your end goal is. I don't even know if you already have a table, if you're making one, or if it's a one-piece or folding unit.
I thought of a way for you to use a folding table. The difference in what I'm thinking is the table is not attached to the wall by any type of rail (ie: freestanding) but to build a convenient method to load it in and out of a wall cabinet. Here's what I'm thinking...
- Mount a rectangular frame on the wall. It should be slightly larger (and deeper) than the folded table. Perhaps 2x6s or 2x8s on edge would serve if they're not too rough, and painted black.
- add a piece of something to cover the frame, whether it be MDF or some other particle board, and hinge it on either the left or right. This piece will be a hinged door to hide the ping-pong table, and also be a base for your artwork. I'd make this piece large enough to overhang the frame by a couple of inches on each side, which will 'float' it from the wall and serve to highlight the art. Your 'cabinet' is now complete.
- of course, you also need four legs for the table since there's no support being added from the wall mount. I'm thinking trestle-style, like a letter 'H' on either end. Easier to fold up (two trestle-legs instead of four post legs) and probably more sturdy as the legs support each other. If you off-set how you attach the trestle legs they can probably fold up and share the same depth when the table is folded. For arguments sake if you make the trestles from 2x2s and assuming your playing surface is 3/4", your finished depth of the folded table would be 3" (3/4" + 1 1/2" + 3/4"). To get really sexy put some locking casters on the bottom of your legs.
- Somehow I'd devise a beam with a U-shaped cross-section, to be mounted horizontally to the wall with hinges. It should be just above the lower frame and inside the cabinet. The U-shaped cross-section is the key here: The hollow part of the cross-section is what you push the ping-pong table into when you want to put it away, thus trapping it into the horizontal beam. Make sure the hollow is at the same height as the table, and it should be a fairly snug fit, too.
- the process of putting it away would be to first push the end of the table into the hollow of the crossbeam. Now that the one edge is supported by the crossbeam, fold up the trestle legs closest to the wall. Next you continue to push the table into the wall, and as you push crack the hinge on the table - the crossbeam then should hinge upward while the table folds downward, into the cabinet. At some point during this you'll need to fold the other trestle legs. Close the door, stand back, and admire the artwork!
- Removing the table will be the reverse process
- Gravity will hold the table into the U-section and trapping the bottom in place. You'll want some way to attach the top end of the table to the wall. Maybe just a simple eye-hook will do.
That's it. Having played a lot of ping pong in earlier years (well,
table tennis to be snobby about it) I think it is better to not have anything permanently attaching the table to the wall. I don't know your space but this would allow you to place the table diagonally in the room and put your back to the corners. The other advantage, of course, is the table is stored folded and will not look so odd as a full height table.
Hope this helps
