Basement Development & Associated Costs

[Shazam]

I think those subfloor membranes are meant for more humid climates.

[KTrain]

Since I started the thread I guess I should give an update.

We decided to be the general contractors ourselves as we received quotes for upwards of $40,000 for developing 750 square feet.

We did the drawings and pulled the permits. It actually a very easy process and I'm pissed I delayed doing it for so long.

We didn't start getting the contractors in until the second week of October. So far we've had it framed (bedroom, bathroom, storage and open area TV/play area). The plumbing for the full bathroom and bar sink has been installed. The electrical has been roughed in (pot lights, bathroom fan, entertainment center wiring, ceiling speakers, vacuflow, cable, CAT5, switches, sockets, etc.) and the heating vents have been moved/installed. Next week the drywall will be completed.

In total for materials and labour we've spent around $5000. Once it's completed I'll post a cost and labour breakdown so you know what you can expect. Though we've had a combination of hired trades and family trades working on the project. We'll also be doing the majority of the finishing ourselves.

[Gobsgraham]

Bumping an old thread but...Someone told me if you develop less than 80% of your basement it will not impact your property taxes. I don't really believe this but thought I would throw it out to CP and see what you all think/know.

[Shazam]

Property tax assessment is wide open to any sort of adjustment, so I doubt that's true.

[ken0042]

Originally Posted by Gobsgraham

Bumping an old thread but...Someone told me if you develop less than 80% of your basement it will not impact your property taxes. I don't really believe this but thought I would throw it out to CP and see what you all think/know.

There is a house on my street identical to mine in every way; including our garages. However once the permit was signed off on my basement development, my assessed value has been $20K higher than his. And I only have about 50-60% of mine developed.

My guess is it's a "yes/no" checkbox for basement development.

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by ken0042

There is a house on my street identical to mine in every way; including our garages. However once the permit was signed off on my basement development, my assessed value has been $20K higher than his. And I only have about 50-60% of mine developed.

My guess is it's a "yes/no" checkbox for basement development.

Do you know what that works out to in additional tax dollars you'll owe annually compared to him?

[kdogg]

Can anyone recommend a place that does bars \ cabinets for entertainment units?

I was looking to get a couple of quotes.
________
BONGS

[fundmark19]

I can't seem to find it online so I thought I would ask in this thread. I am going to put a suspended ceiling in the basement and was wondering if you can put one in a bathroom that has a shower? I would assume that because of the steam it might cause a problem. Anyone know for sure what the regulations are?

[You Need a Thneed]

Originally Posted by fundmark19

I can't seem to find it online so I thought I would ask in this thread. I am going to put a suspended ceiling in the basement and was wondering if you can put one in a bathroom that has a shower? I would assume that because of the steam it might cause a problem. Anyone know for sure what the regulations are?

Armstrong (the manufacturer) has a line of humidity resistant tiles. You could call a place like Winroc (or any drywall supplier) and ask about them. Armstrong's website says they are fine for bathrooms.

Originally Posted by Armstrong Website

For most of your interior rooms, you can choose from our entire line of ceilings. For bathrooms or rooms that reach over 70 Percent humidity, you should select a ceiling with our HumiGuard™ Plus feature.

Link.

[Prototype]

Bump of an old thread, but I thought I'd ask in here. Seeing as how we're almost done all the framing in my basement, and started on the electrical, does anyone here know anyone that would do a 'case of beer' deal on the plumbing? I want to have my basement done sooner, rather than later, with a loose finish date of the weekend of June 19th.

Worth a shot, I guess.

[Clarkey]

I hope no one minds that I bump this back up.

What is the difference between getting a permit and getting an inspection? Are they linked? I assume the permit approves you to do the work and the inspection is to look at the work you've done and give it a thumbs up or down?

Couldn't you just get the electrical and plumbing inspected and get the permits later if you decide to sell? That way you know that what's behind the walls is sound.

[Scoopdogg]

I'm not sure you can do that. I'm currently getting my basement done and went to get the permits last week. I'm pretty sure you need permits in order to get the inspection done.

When you get the permits you have to provide drawings of the work being done. The drawings also provide information to the inspector(s) so they know what they are inspecting when they come.

Your best bet is to call 311 and get your answer but I'm pretty you can't do one without the other.

[Northendzone]

as part of the permit process - the city should be doing two inspections - a rough in one and a final inspection. You need to correct any deficiences noted in either inspection.

i suppose that in theory if one were to side step the permit process through the city then I suppose you could get a visual inspection done by someone who knows what they are looking at but I doubt they would sign a piece of paper stating they inpsected it - which could lead to possible issue with respect to a fire or a resale situation......

as an aside, the electrical stuff alway perplexed me; however, I was able to do all the rough ins in my basement - I then paid someone to tie it into the panel. I should note that I did not do any type of fancy wiring or wiring of three way switches. I bought a book from Home Depot and read it several times before attmpting. I now feel comfortable doing some electircal work and adding extra outlets and what not.

[Ashartus]

Scoopdogg and Northendzone are correct. Since the City does the inspections, you need the permit first. However, if it's a property tax increase you're worried about, what some people I know have done is got the permits, had the "rough-in" inspection, but held off on the final inspection. That way they say that their basement development isn't finished yet. The disadvantage of that approach is that you'd probably have to pay a fee to get the permit re-activated down the road in order to get the final inspection, and you could be taking a bit of a risk if codes change in the meantime.

[Clarkey]

Originally Posted by Ashartus

Scoopdogg and Northendzone are correct. Since the City does the inspections, you need the permit first. However, if it's a property tax increase you're worried about, what some people I know have done is got the permits, had the "rough-in" inspection, but held off on the final inspection. That way they say that their basement development isn't finished yet. The disadvantage of that approach is that you'd probably have to pay a fee to get the permit re-activated down the road in order to get the final inspection, and you could be taking a bit of a risk if codes change in the meantime.

This is along the lines of what I was thinking and what I'll probably end up doing. Thanks.

[Ryan Coke]

Another bump, as we are just doing our basement. You guys have convinced me to go hand some money over to the city for the permits.

Reading the city brochure linked earlier in the thread talks about having to have the cold air returns at ground level in all developed rooms. How have various people handled this? The current setup in our basement is basically cardboard covering the gap between two joists in the ceiling with a couple of grates to allow air in. Are their specific ways to run that down to floor level? Any particular types of ducting allowed or not?

Also, any last recommends on the debate of suspended ceiling vs. drywalled?

[stampsx2]

Pro's suspended ceiling:
-Access to any plumbing, electrical and vents in the basement in case of any problems
-You may decide you want a change in the future like an alarm or an additional tv/phone outlet. Worse yet your home buyer might want one.
-Access to wiring/plumbing on the main floor is greatly increased
-Sound absorbtion
-A bit of a pain to install but easier than mudding, taping etc a drywalled ceiling
-Everything is good now but you don't realize how much you will need to access that ceiling in the homes future

Con's of a suspended ceiling
-May not look as good. You'll have to cut your tiles and depending on the type you get it might not look too great along the edges

Pro's of a drywalled ceiling:
-Looks better and more professional in my opinion
-Cheaper than a suspended ceiling if you do it yourself (but a pain in the rear i hear)

Con's of a drywalled ceiling:
-Looks good now but....

Can't help you with the cold air return (didn't think you have to). Strange thing is I never see them in basements I go into. You would need a hot air vent though for sure but don't think it needs to be at ground level.

[DuffMan]

Originally Posted by stampsx2

Con's of a drywalled ceiling:
-Looks good now but....

No access for wiring , electrical etc. I think that was alluded to in the pros for suspended.

I don't know about that cold air return business either. In my house, which is a 4 level split, there is only 1 cold air return per level. 2 are basically in hallways and one is in a living room on a central wall. Having one in each room doesn't make a lot of sense. But then again, I'm no hvac expert.

[Stranger]

I 'm a contractor and have done it both ways. I would suggest the suspended ceiling. You never know when you will want to access that area and when you do you'll be glad you dropped the ceiling. Also buy a box of extra tiles and put them in your storage room. You may never get a stained tile, but if you do you can make the quick switch.

[Pinner]

Drywall ceilings are much nicer IMO, a drywaller was the first owner of my house so it's completely finished, every room has a different ceiling texture too.

Lack of access isn't a big deal until you start moving walls around on the main floor. If you're doing renos, cutting and repairing an access hole isn't going to hurt too bad.

Make sure you get all the clunks and boinks etc. out, that forced air systems make. (like mine) before you close it up.

Return air ducts will draw more warm air to the basement, I don't have any but my old style furnace draws it's combustion air from the basement which helps. High efficient new style furnaces draw outside air I believe.

You'll have to tap into the return air ducts and run ductwork inside the interior walls to the floor, just skip a stud where you want them as the return air ducts are 32" wide.