Back from Italy . . . . . fun trip.
I caught myself still saying "gratzee" at 7-11 yesterday.
Some notes for those who might be interested . . . .
As soon as you step out of the terminal at the Rome airport you're hit on by guys offering a ride into town for 80 Euro's, saying the regular taxi's are more. After my official taxi ride into Rome - reaching 135 km at one point - the metered tab was 47.23 Euros.
Got some great running in because I was willing to get up at 5:45 to 6:15 . . . . . . my favourite route in Rome was running past a deserted St. Peter's Square, up Janiculum Hill, seeing the sun rising over the Colosseum and the ruins of the Palantine, then down into the narrow cobblestoned alleyways of Trastevere before descending to the Tiber at Ponte Sisto . . . . then out for miles along the river, well off the map, pretty much alone before returning and climbing back into the city at Castel Sant Angelo and back to the hotel.
It's a Rome that few Roman's probably see . . . . . deserted, quiet, little traffic and only a few pedestrians. As an example, near Castel Sant Angelo, a group of gypsy bums were sleeping under one of the bridges (Ponte Principe), the rising sun hitting them but one of the matrons up and about, sweeping the dirt around them out of habit. On Janiculum Hill, there were a few couples lying entwined on the grass . . . . Sleepy Rome.
Also ran along Via Cola di Rienzo to the Pincio then into Villa Borghese . . . . that's where you'll find other runners, although they seem to be mostly North Americans.
And a great run along the Arno River in Florence and another in Milan where I caught the early sun just hitting the massive Duomo.
A lone runner in Rome, along the Tiber at sunset, next to Castel Sant Angelo . . . .
It's true that Bonjourno is used throughout the day in Rome but the further north you go, the more likely you'll run into Bueno Sera in the afternoon and evening.
Stepped off an elevator in a hotel in Florence and was face-to-face with Peter Bergen, the last western journalist to interview Osama Bin Laden before 9/11, in deep conversation with likely his wife. My only quasi-celebrity sighting.
I must have pulled off the image of looking Italian as on four occasions, three in Rome, vehicles would come screeching up beside me, a blizzard of Italian would come out of the window, obviously asking for directions, at which point I could only say "Sono Canadassey" and shrug my shoulders. There were a half dozen times this happened with pedestrians as well . . . . . say those words and they're stunned for a moment, as if you've just announced you're Zorgon from Pluto, then laughing and apologetic.
Dressing the part helped us fit into our tourist-lite neighbourhood and so it was with incredulized disbelief, as the temperature soared into the mid-30's on day six or seven in Rome, that we saw two American - or they could have been Canadian - younger and toned good ole boys strutting down the street shirtless and in shorts, looking mighty proud of themselves.
After having spent the past week ingratiating ourselves into the Roman mood, it was absolutely amazing how ridiculous and out of place they seemed . . . . yet oblivious to their shame all the same. Pretty funny. No matter how hot it gets, keep your shirt on!!!
Saw a guy weaving through traffic in Rome on his Vespa with a live parrot on his shoulder.
Saw the Pope speak twice . . . . . walked out on him twice as, you know, it was about 35 above and we weren't speaking his lingo. I see he got attacked this morning. Something always happens just after we leave Europe . . . .
It was day 7.5 of our eight day stay in Rome when it occurred to us we hadn't stepped into a single souvenier shop, in fact, hadn't shopped for anything . . . . . any money we had spent was on admissions, meals, drink, etc.
Leaving Rome for Florence was a shock . . . . . whereas Rome seemed to absorb tourists - most of whom seemed to be German - Florence was overrun with them and seemed very commercialized to that market. Lots to see in Florence but you couldn't help but think you'd left Italy behind somewhere.
Bustling Milan was a light year of difference from laid back Rome and a city I would have liked to have seen more of. The gothic Duomo in Milan might have been even more impressive than the Vatican and, as we visited on a day it was particularly gloomy and screaming "Dark Ages," a lot of fun.
Tuscany was an interesting place as well . . . . . we spent a day getting lost on roads that weren't even on a map, stopping to investigate small villages and lunching at an obscure restaurant hidden down a gravel road and in the trees.
I was leaning over a bridge on the Arno in Florence when I spotted something at first glance that appeared to be a beaver. Then, having speculated that the probability of seeing
Castor canadensis floating down a river in Italy was pretty remote, plus the fact the beaver made a move to attack some ducks, I came to the conclusion it was a wild boar out for a swim.
I have lots of pictures but a few for representation . . . .
Below, 4X4's begger on a skateboard in Rome . . . .
The local metrosexual brute squad in Rome . . . . the pants sort of take away from the effect.
Below, An innocent looking scene with an interesting story. We were having luncheon at a sidewalk cafe in Trastevere district when the fellow on the right pulls up in his car. He gets out and he starts making calls on his cellphone, a gravelly voice identical to Marlon Brando's Godfather with a more gregarious disposition. He disappears down the street for a while and comes back . . . . then the action starts. Someone comes by and hands him a bundle of bills for a plastic bag full of things. A few more transactions happen in similar fashion before the white-haired chap and the guy on the left show up, the latter giving every appearance of being some sort of bodyguard and our man on the right suddenly turning very deferential. The back of the automobile is flipped up and out come some new suits, the older guy inspecting the merchandise and seemingly not very impressed . . . . . .all of this being very interesting so early in the day from our vantage point of course.
Below, the power and the glory, a silhouette inside the Vatican.
Below . . . . . Papers please!! A Caribinari cop checks out some immigrants . . . . these fellows were running one of the many silent disguise begging routines at various squares around the city. One of the more humourous incidents of our trip saw us having a coffee at a corner cafe on a nearby side street when we suddenly heard loud protestations of outrage followed by a mad clatter, police whistles and, then, the wild thumping of feet as guys like these carrying their wares AND their tables come thundering past in a mad effort to vacate the scene of what was likely some tourist shakedown.
Below, inside the Duomo in Florence . . . . . some welcome heat from the frigid temperatures and pouring rain outside.
Below, a moment in the day in the life of a corner cafe in Milan . . . . . lots of stories in this picture if you take the time.
Enjoy Rome . . . .
Cowperson