Thinking of Buying a New AWD Car

[Icon]

Originally Posted by hulkrogan

No A5 liftback will be available in Canada, only the coupe.

[C-Four]

Originally Posted by Wormius

This is still a problem with the Imprezas? Mine is an 04, and its almost time to take it to Chippy or somewhere that fixes this stuff up. I have seen other models that look much better for their age.

Any recommendation for chip/paint repair?

I'm not sure what they were like before, but I find that they chip a lot on the front hood, in hindsight, I might of gone for all that protective coating stuff that the dealers usually push. Also had some rust issues on the rear hatch, but these were fixed via warranty with no issues.

Not sure about paint/chip repair, but PaintFX did some great body work for a cracked bumper. Small dingy shop but great service.

Sorry about the delayed response, I usually just lurk on here

[Burninator]

Originally Posted by Ozy_Flame

I have an '07 BMW 335xi and I love it. It handles great, has extreme power for a sedan (310 hp) and gives me the torque I need to pull out of tight spots. The only downside is pricey repairs, but don't drive it like a jackass and its definitely manageable.

What's your average service cost? What kind of stuff are they doing?

[Ozy_Flame]

Originally Posted by Burninator

What's your average service cost? What kind of stuff are they doing?

Well the only thing I've had to do to it is replace the back brakes, which can run you in the $500 or so range.

Replacing tires can easily get into the $750-1000 range for a full set if you don't have a tire warranty (which I do).

General service, such as an oil change, I believe is going to be around the $100-$150 mark, including all the normal jazz they do with that. Since it was under warranty, I haven't had, but I will now that it has expired.

I guess it's just pricey compared to the Mazda 626 I had before this. But really, nothing big so far. And I hope to keep it that way.

[Hemi-Cuda]

Originally Posted by Ozy_Flame

Well the only thing I've had to do to it is replace the back brakes, which can run you in the $500 or so range.

Replacing tires can easily get into the $750-1000 range for a full set if you don't have a tire warranty (which I do).

General service, such as an oil change, I believe is going to be around the $100-$150 mark, including all the normal jazz they do with that. Since it was under warranty, I haven't had, but I will now that it has expired.

I guess it's just pricey compared to the Mazda 626 I had before this. But really, nothing big so far. And I hope to keep it that way.

why are you going to the dealership for any of that? if it's under warranty then fine, but you can get new brakes and tires much cheaper at any number of places, and oil is easy enough to do yourself

[Bill Bumface]

Yeah, paying a dealer for any kind of repair, unless it's something your indy shop says specifically they can't do, is not the smartest course of action.

[Burninator]

Originally Posted by hulkrogan

Yeah, paying a dealer for any kind of repair, unless it's something your indy shop says specifically they can't do, is not the smartest course of action.

How do you find repairs on your A4 (I think you said you had one).

The more research I do the more and more I am liking the 328xi and the A4 in their wagon formats. Nice blend of performance, luxury, features and AWD. I was liking the Imprezas, but they are pretty much my Mazda 3 with AWD barely seems worth while to upgrade. But one thing that worries with ze German cars is everyone I talk to says the repairs are really expensive.

[Miniac]

PM sent

[Ozy_Flame]

Originally Posted by Hemi-Cuda

why are you going to the dealership for any of that? if it's under warranty then fine, but you can get new brakes and tires much cheaper at any number of places, and oil is easy enough to do yourself

tires are under warranty, Brakes weren't much cheaper for original parts anywhere else; all within a range of $50 of each other including the dealership.

Not interested in changing my own oil. I'll let someone else do that.

[Hemi-Cuda]

Originally Posted by Ozy_Flame

tires are under warranty, Brakes weren't much cheaper for original parts anywhere else; all within a range of $50 of each other including the dealership.

Not interested in changing my own oil. I'll let someone else do that.

for brakes it doesn't really matter what kind of car you drive, you don't want the original factory parts. you can go to any automotive place and get high performance brake pads guaranteed for life for probably half of what you'll pay at a dealer for generic pads

[GreatWhiteEbola]

Originally Posted by Hemi-Cuda

for brakes it doesn't really matter what kind of car you drive, you don't want the original factory parts. you can go to any automotive place and get high performance brake pads guaranteed for life for probably half of what you'll pay at a dealer for generic pads

Higher perceived resale value could be one reason for going to the dealership for that kind of work. I know for myself if I were to look at buying a used BMW, I would put more weight on the car with a BMW OEM service receipts over Canadian Tire or Bob's BMW House service receipts. That would be one factor in my decision.

There may also be a consideration that a trade-in might be easier. A car with a documented dealership service history would possibly be easier to pre-owned certify, making the trade-in value increase. Possibly.

I agree, though I am a gear head and do my own work. When I last did my brakes, instead of going with OEM or generic I went with Rotora rotors and Hawk pads. Sourced on the internet at considerable savings over other options. It made a huge difference in the braking of the car. But if you're not into doing that sort of thing, the dealership is another option. When time and service history are factors, and money is not.

[Ozy_Flame]

Exactly, GBE. I am looking to re-sell next summer and I want all work (most anyways) to be done by the dealership. Original parts is important to me because I don't want after-market mods made to my car - the average buyer doesn't really care two hoots if the brakes are super fan-boy top-of-the-line; as long as the brakes are safe and solid. BMW owners who want to by PCS used cars want something that has been serviced by certified technicians who represent the company.

On that note, Hemi I doubt you can get super life-long high performance brake pads that never have to be replaced AND installed for half. That seems way too far-fetched.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by Burninator

How do you find repairs on your A4 (I think you said you had one).

I've got an S4, so maintenance is a bit more expensive (takes about twice as much oil, brakes are bigger and more aggressive so therefore more expensive, has 8 spark plugs/coil packs instead of 4), but in the last 2 years I've spent the following:

-Blown motor mounts- $250 (I don't think blown mounts on an A4 are common)

-Oil changes- do it myself, $90 a pop in oil/filter

-Transmission fluid change- $40 in fluid, $50 in labor

-Fuel filter change- $40 for the filter, $50 in labor

-Spark plugs- $90 in parts, did it myself

Transmission fluid/Fuel filter/spark plugs will probably only ever be done 2 or 3 times in the life of the car, so not every year kind of things unless you drive a ton.

When stuff breaks, if you have the luxury of waiting to fix it parts can be had for a massive discount online. I always buy my own parts and take them to the shop when necessary.

TuneDub is a GREAT shop for VW/Audi work.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by Ozy_Flame

On that note, Hemi I doubt you can get super life-long high performance brake pads that never have to be replaced AND installed for half. That seems way too far-fetched.

If you have a manual, brake pads can last a LONG time. I'm still on original rear brakes at 104,000 km, and the fronts were done at about 70,000 km (guy that owned it before me must not have heard of downshifting) and they probably are still at 80%. I went with Hawk pads as well.

[morgin]

Originally Posted by hulkrogan

If you have a manual, brake pads can last a LONG time. I'm still on original rear brakes at 104,000 km, and the fronts were done at about 70,000 km (guy that owned it before me must not have heard of downshifting) and they probably are still at 80%. I went with Hawk pads as well.

Brake pads are cheaper than engine components. I always cringe when people boast about their barely used brake pads and the benefits of engine braking. Sure you can do it, but which is cheaper to put wear on?

[Ozy_Flame]

Originally Posted by hulkrogan

If you have a manual, brake pads can last a LONG time. I'm still on original rear brakes at 104,000 km, and the fronts were done at about 70,000 km (guy that owned it before me must not have heard of downshifting) and they probably are still at 80%. I went with Hawk pads as well.

I have a 6-speed automatic, and lady drive the car. I was surprised to see my brakes squaking (emergency sensor rubbing on the rotors I think was the problem), which resulted in me needing new brakes at around the 40,000 mark. Something must have happened with the previous owner because that seems like low mileage for a replacement. Front brakes are perfectly fine though and have never been repaired.

[Table 5]

Yep, agree with morgin. I know it's not the "safest" way to stop, but personally I almost always throw it into neutral and brake when coming up to stop lights. Saves the clutch some wear and it's a bit of a smoother ride as well.

[Table 5]

Originally Posted by Ozy_Flame

I have a 6-speed automatic, and lady drive the car.

So you forget to change the fluids and drive it into curbs?

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by morgin

Brake pads are cheaper than engine components. I always cringe when people boast about their barely used brake pads and the benefits of engine braking. Sure you can do it, but which is cheaper to put wear on?

If you're anal about wear on your transmission and clutch like me, you double clutch and rev match when slowing down. I've owned nothing but manuals and I've never had a clutch wear out on me on a car, ever.

Engine braking is just your engine reving with no throttle. It is as close to absolutely zero wear as you can get.

There are lots of reasons not to leave your car in neutral when stopping, safety and otherwise, but no point getting into that.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by Ozy_Flame

I have a 6-speed automatic.

Automatics are inherently harder on brakes, especially torque converted automatics. You are actually fighting the engine with your brakes a little bit every time you come to a stop.