Drywall / Taping question

[zarrell]

Originally Posted by fotze

In my Sunnyside house I absolutely had to do the stick method. There was massive undulations in the concrete, would have been a mathematical nightmare.

Actually, unless you're talking 2" variations building basement walls is petty easy. First you mark out all your walls. Then you nail down treated 2x4 to the concrete where your walls go. Then, for each section of wall you build measure the height so that the wall will fit in between the treated 2x4 and the ceiling, taking the smallest measurement and subtracting maybe a 1/4". Then when you nail the walls in place you nail it tight to the ceiling and leave it "float" over the treated 2x4. Do however nail the bottom in place every foot or so. This solves two problems. First, you can cut all your studs the same length. Secondly, the walls are not fixed rigidly to the concrete floor, leaving room for expansion up and down.

[algernon]

Originally Posted by zarrell

Actually, unless you're talking 2" variations building basement walls is petty easy. First you mark out all your walls. Then you nail down treated 2x4 to the concrete where your walls go. Then, for each section of wall you build measure the height so that the wall will fit in between the treated 2x4 and the ceiling, taking the smallest measurement and subtracting maybe a 1/4". Then when you nail the walls in place you nail it tight to the ceiling and leave it "float" over the treated 2x4. Do however nail the bottom in place every foot or so. This solves two problems. First, you can cut all your studs the same length. Secondly, the walls are not fixed rigidly to the concrete floor, leaving room for expansion up and down.

That's a good point. Basement framing is not load bearing.
When I was working in Denver, that's how all basements were framed, as the bentonetic (sp?) clay soils there would expand and contract so much that, that was part of the building code. They used 6 or 8" spikes every 2' or so to secure the bottom plate. I think they were floated 2 or 3" there, though.

[ken0042]

Originally Posted by algernon

That's a good point. Basement framing is not load bearing.

And Mike Holmes says it should be- which is why he does it the way he does. Not saying he is right......

[algernon]

Originally Posted by ken0042

And Mike Holmes says it should be- which is why he does it the way he does. Not saying he is right......

Hmm. I rarely watch TV, so I can't speak to Mr. Holmes...Nor do I hate the guy, as I gather that the premise of his show is fixing the work of hacks,BUT...
If that were true, I guess we'd see/hear of a lot of collapsing houses sold without basement framing.

IMO, the walls must be solid, straight and dry.They are privacy walls, not load bearing.That doesn't mean they can be all willy-manilly sloppy...just not as tight as load-bearing.

I frame basements both ways, however-it just depends on the client's wishes.
When I stick 'em, I layout the floor,the plates,nail top and bottom plates(using my plumbing laser to set the top plates), then measure/cut the studs and go to town.
When building on the floor I use the smallest measurement(-1/4") for the studs in that wall, build it, stand it up, and install it. Sometimes you have to rack the wall to get it to slide in, and sometimes you still have to stick awkward walls (especially around mechanical/beams).

To each their own...
Oh yeah,bottom plates get a bead of PL, as well.

[ken0042]

Originally Posted by algernon

Hmm. I rarely watch TV, so I can't speak to Mr. Holmes...Nor do I hate the guy, as I gather that the premise of his show is fixing the work of hacks,BUT...
If that were true, I guess we'd see/hear of a lot of collapsing houses sold without basement framing.

What he says is that seeing as you are building a wall down there, why not make it support the structure, as added support couldn't hurt.

All of his stuff is about how to make it the absolute best it can be. I agree to a certain extent, and he makes some good points about how things should be better than minimum code. But some of his shows I watch and wonder how the next contractor is going to take that down in 20 years when styles change and tile floors just look "so 20th century."

I'm also waiting for them to discover that spray foam is worse than asbestos, and he now has to rip apart every house he coated with that stuff.

[ken0042]

Just wanted to give this thread a bump and give a big thanks to everybody who turned me over to the "mesh tape" side. Holy fata- was that ever easier than using the paper.

I didn't realize how thin the mesh was, and I was expecting paper or something on the wall side. The mesh went onto my ceiling last night, and today I sanded and put what looks like could be the final coat of mud.

In the past month or so I can't count the number of times I had said that I was never mudding again. But using the mesh, I might be willing to give it another try.