Loose Fill Blown Insulation

[ranchlandsselling]

Originally Posted by Bindair Dundat

Agreed, given the circumstances you have described. Realizing a return on the investment will take a couple of years and in your situation? It makes no sense to dump this kind of cash into something you bought to flip (or rent out).
I will advise you that if you have serious issues with the tiled walls in your tub areas (and do intend to use this house as a rental), then these should be addressed prior to contracting a tenancy. Water is a nasty, nasty bit of business and can cause serious structural damage if left unchecked to "do it's thing". An ounce of prevention is worth it in such a case...even if it does cost a grand to R & R the tub area.
I did one where the floor joists under the bathtub were wet rotted so badly that there was only about 3 viable inches left on the bottom chord of four of the six 2 x 10 joists, carrying the weight of the tub (plus the 400-500 pounds of water it can hold)...
Scary "stuff"!

Thanks for the "thanks"

Ron

Thanks,

Not flipping, been here for 7 years and it was just always a low priority fix. I'm just leaving because the family grows and we need more space.

Have done tiles on two levels, laminate on another, removal of a drop ceiling, new potlights throughout kitchen, new baseboards, new carpet in the bedroosm and stairs, new closets, most windows replaced and patio doors, and final thing will be bathrooms (for the reason you mentioned, tiles becoming near problematic and a gross shower stall that needs to go) and a counter replacement. Yeah - bathrooms can go real bad, real fast. I've got a relative that works for a remediation company and have heard some awful stories. Mine are probably at the point that it'll detract from the sale more than the cost of replacement. Someone will say, meh, I can't just move in, I'm going to have to redo those, whereas I can get them done by a friend and probably break even and speed the sale or increase the rental income by having the done.


The garage and colds spots I see as a minor nuisance and might just end up costing a bit more in heating bills. Something a renter will either tire of and move out or I'll sell it and the inefficiency can be dealt with by the new owner. They'll be able to tell by the mid-efficient furnace, water tank, and any home inspection that the place isn't about to win any eco-awards.

St. Albert, hmmm... Flames Fan? Can I PM you a St. Albert related question that you'd likely know the answer to?

Thanks!

[Shin Pad]

As noted by one of the posters above - 1/2 lb open cell spray foam is not what you want. You need 2 lb density closed cell sprayed polyurethane insulation, if you are using it to both insulate and provide an air barrier.

[Bindair Dundat]

Originally Posted by ranchlandsselling

<snip>...
St. Albert, hmmm... Flames Fan? Can I PM you a St. Albert related question that you'd likely know the answer to?

Thanks!

PM Away...

[Madman]

Originally Posted by Shin Pad

As noted by one of the posters above - 1/2 lb open cell spray foam is not what you want. You need 2 lb density closed cell sprayed polyurethane insulation, if you are using it to both insulate and provide an air barrier.

Are you in the business by chance?

Looking for someone to come out and fix the terrible insulation and cold zones above our garage.

[4X4]

I can't believe you're attempting to give a guy the moral shaming for not fixing something like that. It's a cold room, not mold behind drywall. I think every house I've ever lived in had a cold room somewhere.

[Shin Pad]

Originally Posted by Madman

Are you in the business by chance?

Looking for someone to come out and fix the terrible insulation and cold zones above our garage.

I'm not a contractor - I'm a consultant.

[Buzzard]

Bit of a bump here, but can anyone chime in on what route to go with a master bedroom that's way to cold in winter?

It seems to get as much furnace register airflow as every other room in house and the furnace is only a couple years old. It's in an upper floor of townhouse built in '81, above the living room below, so not a garage issue. There's a fairly large window (6' x 4') so I'm sure that's part of it, but in fact the top floor as a whole is the coldest of the whole house, including the developed basement. Shouldn't top floor always be warmest?

I've gone through the attic, and there's about 11" fiberglass throughout. Enough?

Would it just be best to get thermal imaging in to pinpoint problem ? Anyone have experience with these guys? Price, recommendation, etc.?

[speede5]

How is the cold air return? you need circulation or it dead heads.

[CaptainYooh]

Originally Posted by Buzzard

Bit of a bump here, but can anyone chime in on what route to go with a master bedroom that's way to cold in winter?

It seems to get as much furnace register airflow as every other room in house and the furnace is only a couple years old. It's in an upper floor of townhouse built in '81, above the living room below, so not a garage issue. There's a fairly large window (6' x 4') so I'm sure that's part of it, but in fact the top floor as a whole is the coldest of the whole house, including the developed basement. Shouldn't top floor always be warmest?

I've gone through the attic, and there's about 11" fiberglass throughout. Enough?

Would it just be best to get thermal imaging in to pinpoint problem ? Anyone have experience with these guys? Price, recommendation, etc.?

I suggest starting with re-balancing the airflow. This is the easiest and by far the cheapest way of fixing unbalanced heat distribution. It is somewhat laborious but fairly simple: you need to check airflow from each heat vent and close/open the duct damper control knob. For example, if one area is noticeably warmer than the other (usually, a smaller space, i.e. washrooms or closets with heat vents), then close it down a notch. The colder area should get the maximum air flow. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, call the HVAC person and he'd do it for you, using an air flow metering device and charge you for his time.

[topfiverecords]

Is the fiberglass attic insulation batt or blown in?

[Buzzard]

Originally Posted by speede5

How is the cold air return? you need circulation or it dead heads.

They're all clear.

[Buzzard]

Originally Posted by speede5

How is the cold air return? you need circulation or it dead heads.

Originally Posted by CaptainYooh

I suggest starting with re-balancing the airflow. This is the easiest and by far the cheapest way of fixing unbalanced heat distribution. It is somewhat laborious but fairly simple: you need to check airflow from each heat vent and close/open the duct damper control knob. For example, if one area is noticeably warmer than the other (usually, a smaller space, i.e. washrooms or closets with heat vents), then close it down a notch. The colder area should get the maximum air flow. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, call the HVAC person and he'd do it for you, using an air flow metering device and charge you for his time.

I've done that. Made little difference.

[Buzzard]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

Is the fiberglass attic insulation batt or blown in?

Insulation batt.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by Buzzard

Insulation batt.

The ideal for attic is R50 and R40 is now code. At 11" of batt you're getting about R32. All in all that shouldn't be the complete cause especially if the coverage is consistent. If the r value was too low you'd likely notice it at other areas of the top floor as well.

Wouldn't hurt to have some thermal imaging done.

[CaptainYooh]

You said the furnace is only a couple of years old. So, it should be efficient. The large window will get the room colder (we have the same problem in two rooms). Changing insulation will be expensive. I'd supplement the temperature with local area electric baseboard heaters. They are inexpensive and effective.

[Buzzard]

Originally Posted by CaptainYooh

You said the furnace is only a couple of years old. So, it should be efficient. The large window will get the room colder (we have the same problem in two rooms). Changing insulation will be expensive. I'd supplement the temperature with local area electric baseboard heaters. They are inexpensive and effective.

Yeah I probably won't do to much about it.

I'll keep the little ceramic heater we've got in there and let it run. The amount it'd probably cost to find and fix the issue would probably never be cheaper than keeping that heater running as long as we live here.

[speede5]

Go to princess auto and buy a 30$ infared thermometer. You can point it at spots all along the walls, ceiling and floor to look for cold spots. I found a few spots in my attice this way where the blown in insulation had been completely moved away from the drywall (No soffit and a cat! lol).

If the vent is good, cold air return is good, and the exchange rate in the room is comparable to the rest of the house, you are stuck augmenting. vent should be under the window to heat the coldest air in the room first.

I wouldn't leave a ceramic unattended, they are one of the more flammable heaters out their. An oil unit or a wall mounted convection heater are much safer. I put a wall mount in my kids room and it is awesome. it even was programmable so I can leave it on 24 7 and not go broke.