Calgarypuck Forums - The Unofficial Calgary Flames Fan Community

Go Back   Calgarypuck Forums - The Unofficial Calgary Flames Fan Community > Main Forums > The Off Topic Forum
Register Forum Rules FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-15-2023, 01:54 PM   #5461
Fuzz
Franchise Player
 
Fuzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Exp:
Default

Ya, my kitchen sink is pretty much instant, and shower is 10-15 seconds. I do find if I give it a wake up with a quick request for hot first thing in the morning, it works fine. If I don't, it's 25 seconds for first shower.
Fuzz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2023, 01:16 PM   #5462
scotty2hotty
Powerplay Quarterback
 
scotty2hotty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Toronto
Exp:
Default

So the water line leading to my fridge split and caused a leak. Luckily I caught it early with just some minimal damage in my basement.

I’ve heard this is not uncommon. Could someone recommend a better (more durable) tubing to use for this water line to the fridge?
__________________
I like to quote myself - scotty2hotty

Last edited by scotty2hotty; 06-19-2023 at 02:51 PM.
scotty2hotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2023, 01:45 PM   #5463
Brendone
Powerplay Quarterback
 
Brendone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty2hotty View Post
So the line water line leading to my fridge split and caused a leak. Luckily I caught it early with just some minimal damage in my basement.

I’ve heard this is not uncommon. Could someone recommend a better (more durable) tubing to use for this water line to the fridge?

Our builder put in a braided stainless steel line in, which should be better than the standard tubing that’s often used. What they did that sucks is put the wall connector / valve behind the fridge, so when the connection on the fridge (on top of the fridge) failed, we still had to shut off the house valve, since that was way faster than pulling the fridge out.
Brendone is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Brendone For This Useful Post:
Old 06-19-2023, 01:46 PM   #5464
Bill Bumface
My face is a bum!
 
Bill Bumface's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Exp:
Default

nm
Bill Bumface is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2023, 08:37 PM   #5465
Dentoman
Scoring Winger
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Calgary
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty2hotty View Post
So the water line leading to my fridge split and caused a leak. Luckily I caught it early with just some minimal damage in my basement.

I’ve heard this is not uncommon. Could someone recommend a better (more durable) tubing to use for this water line to the fridge?
We have a copper line. It hasn’t leaked but the line in the fridge has. I didn’t realize I had the shut off valve under my kitchen sink until the repair guy showed me. I used the main shut off valve. When I go away for any period of time, I turn off the water to the fridge and dishwasher since I’m under the sink anyways.
Dentoman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Dentoman For This Useful Post:
Old 06-19-2023, 08:56 PM   #5466
sa226
#1 Goaltender
 
sa226's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Back in Calgary!!
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty2hotty View Post
So the water line leading to my fridge split and caused a leak. Luckily I caught it early with just some minimal damage in my basement.

I’ve heard this is not uncommon. Could someone recommend a better (more durable) tubing to use for this water line to the fridge?
Are you talking about the hose running directly into your fridge, or the water line that the hose is hooked up to?

Sent from my SM-S918W using Tapatalk
sa226 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2023, 07:21 AM   #5467
scotty2hotty
Powerplay Quarterback
 
scotty2hotty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Toronto
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sa226 View Post
Are you talking about the hose running directly into your fridge, or the water line that the hose is hooked up to?

Sent from my SM-S918W using Tapatalk
Copper water line is in basement ceiling … runs under the fridge above. There is a plastic hose from this copper water line up through the floor to the fridge …that’s the one that split.
__________________
I like to quote myself - scotty2hotty
scotty2hotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2023, 11:27 AM   #5468
d00little
Backup Goalie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Exp:
Default

I have a hairline crack in the stucco of my bungalow coming down from the corner of the window. It's thin, less than 1/8". Is it a high priority that I be filling this? I don't want to paint the stucco, so was thinking of just injecting some outdoor silicone caulk and calling it a day.
d00little is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to d00little For This Useful Post:
Old 06-20-2023, 11:52 AM   #5469
sa226
#1 Goaltender
 
sa226's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Back in Calgary!!
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty2hotty View Post
Copper water line is in basement ceiling … runs under the fridge above. There is a plastic hose from this copper water line up through the floor to the fridge …that’s the one that split.
Ah okay. Is the copper line a continuous line? I'm guessing it probably is. If whoever installed it just used a kit it probably has a saddle valve, those things are crap.

The easiest thing to do is just replace the hose. They sell them for cheap at any home store. Then wait for it to happen again. But here's plenty of refrigerators out there with the same setup, so it is what it is.

Probably the next best thing is to put a tee in the copper line with a pex hookup and then run a pex line up to the floor with the refrigerator. Install a shutoff valve at the end of that line and then run a braided line to the fridge. It wood look very similar to what runs to your toilet except it runs to your fridge.

Sent from my SM-S918W using Tapatalk
sa226 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to sa226 For This Useful Post:
Old 06-20-2023, 04:00 PM   #5470
timun
First Line Centre
 
Join Date: May 2012
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty2hotty View Post
So the water line leading to my fridge split and caused a leak. Luckily I caught it early with just some minimal damage in my basement.

I’ve heard this is not uncommon. Could someone recommend a better (more durable) tubing to use for this water line to the fridge?
Braided stainless steel.
timun is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to timun For This Useful Post:
Old 06-21-2023, 08:28 AM   #5471
scotty2hotty
Powerplay Quarterback
 
scotty2hotty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Toronto
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timun View Post
Braided stainless steel.
The existing tubing was 3/16 ID and 1/4 OD. I wasn’t able to find any braided steel in those dimensions.

Do you know if it comes in that size? Or do I need to adapt to a different size tubing if I want to use braided stainless steel?
__________________
I like to quote myself - scotty2hotty
scotty2hotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2023, 08:24 AM   #5472
I-Hate-Hulse
Franchise Player
 
I-Hate-Hulse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Sector 7-G
Exp:
Default

I'm contemplating doing a little kitchen perkup:

1) Does anyone have a current price / sq ft for quartz? A 4x8 island is the focus here

2) Any one here experienced in paint sprayers for cabinets, notably whether HVLP or airless is the way to go? Looking to spray the cabinets / frames myself.
I-Hate-Hulse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2023, 08:27 AM   #5473
surferguy
Monster Storm
 
surferguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Calgary
Exp:
Default

It creates a lot of overspray. Be prepared for that. Depending on the product used it can also be explosive ( lacquer). So ventilation is also key.

Actual guns to recommend - I don’t have that information


Edit - I used a very cheap HPLV and over time the lacquer melted the o rings and it started spraying black gunk onto my project.
__________________
Shameless self promotion

surferguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2023, 08:49 AM   #5474
I-Hate-Hulse
Franchise Player
 
I-Hate-Hulse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Sector 7-G
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by surferguy View Post
It creates a lot of overspray. Be prepared for that. Depending on the product used it can also be explosive ( lacquer). So ventilation is also key.
I think I'd be going with a water-based alkyd paint (Benjamin Moore Advance) for general for that exact reason. That and thinning seems to be a big part of HVLP sprayers if I go that route.

Yes, I plan to use a lot of poly to recreate fume tents worth of Walter White in this process to manage overspray
I-Hate-Hulse is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to I-Hate-Hulse For This Useful Post:
Old 06-24-2023, 09:10 AM   #5475
Fuzz
Franchise Player
 
Fuzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Hate-Hulse View Post
I'm contemplating doing a little kitchen perkup:

1) Does anyone have a current price / sq ft for quartz? A 4x8 island is the focus here

2) Any one here experienced in paint sprayers for cabinets, notably whether HVLP or airless is the way to go? Looking to spray the cabinets / frames myself.

I don't have a price, but about 10 years ago I got mine from here, and they were easy to work with and had better prices than most I had talked to.

https://hgbstone.ca/

Mine was just a smaller bathroom vanity and it was $550 with a sink attached. I installed it myself.
Fuzz is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Fuzz For This Useful Post:
Old 06-24-2023, 09:55 AM   #5476
timun
First Line Centre
 
Join Date: May 2012
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotty2hotty View Post
The existing tubing was 3/16 ID and 1/4 OD. I wasn’t able to find any braided steel in those dimensions.

Do you know if it comes in that size? Or do I need to adapt to a different size tubing if I want to use braided stainless steel?
Don't get too hung up on the OD and ID to a precise fraction of an inch. Typically ice maker connections are 1/4" compression fittings (meant for use with a ferrule): find one that had that. E.g. https://www.lowes.ca/product/applian...-maker-2807216
timun is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to timun For This Useful Post:
Old 06-27-2023, 10:43 AM   #5477
DoubleF
Franchise Player
 
DoubleF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Exp:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Hate-Hulse View Post
I'm contemplating doing a little kitchen perkup:

1) Does anyone have a current price / sq ft for quartz? A 4x8 island is the focus here

2) Any one here experienced in paint sprayers for cabinets, notably whether HVLP or airless is the way to go? Looking to spray the cabinets / frames myself.
1. It depends on quality of stone and if the supplier wants to clearance the stone. $1,000 to $10,000 depending on what you ask for. Keep calling around until you find something you like at the price you like. I did an entire home (island, 2 large L counters, laundry room, wet bar and a bathroom + installation; 3 sink cut outs etc.) with stone countertop for $5500 just before the pandemic. I assume you add around 30-50% on those prices now. I think it was around $4-5 a sq foot ish for Calcutta quartz (because of a few other variables).

Also ask about whether the entire slab will be used and if there's extra if there are some counter space in your home the extra would fit. I got some of it cheaper because smaller bits of the slab were used for a counter top in the bathroom. Like if they have a 3x4 foot piece that typically wouldn't work well with typical larger installs, but would be perfect for a small bathroom, they'd probably be happy to not store it and make money off of it. Then they ####ed up the measurements of a primary slab by a little bit, but were able re-cut it smaller and turn it into a counter top for my laundry room. That created excess again which was enough for a wet bar in my basement. They were super happy to not have too much excess left over and discounted me extra or their error even though they honestly didn't have to. I basically asked if there was any smaller parts on the slab that would work for another counter in my home and I ended up with a piano key counter top (with sink cut out) in my bathroom for like $300. That's why my price fluctuated around $4-5 a sq foot. We agreed upon $5.25 a square foot at first, but the final price was lower than my original verbal quote.

If doing a sink, show up with the sink to be installed for them to have on hand when cutting. The cutting will be more accurate. If they don't automatically ask for it... hope they don't screw it up.

2. Get a quote on new cabinets first before contemplating a DIY refresh of cabinets. I thought I'd save a ton on repainting cabinets once upon a time as well, and it wasn't as much savings I would have liked and the labour hours were through the roof vs what I had expected. If you don't properly strip, sand and prime the surface before the refresh, it might not stay on and after drying it can easily chip, look drippy, be uneven etc.

For 30-40% more, I could have gotten brand new cabinets with a modern look, improved design and layout (ie: drawers vs hard to use deep cabinets), anti-slam, install etc. and that's not including working non-stop on the cabinets for 2-3 weeks vs merely waiting 3-4 weeks for a simple install. I would have also loved having that extra time for other projects before moving in. You may want to experiment with a dresser or vanity before doing stuff in a house. It'll take way longer with significantly more pre-prep and post clean up than you might imagine. If I could get a mulligan, I refresh my kitchen with new cabinets vs re-finishing/repainting old cabinets.

I think HVLP vs airless depends on your personality. Reading up on it, HVLP you'll have to experiment with thinning the paint but the finish by default is smoother. Airless you're less likely to be required to thin the paint, and you'll have to obtain specific hardware/nozzle to get a smoother finish. I guess it means you can do different types of finish/looks with different nozzles. Airless also uses a lot of extra paint than HVLP due to more overspray. 2-3 seconds of #### up can be 20-30 minutes of cleaning. HVLP I assume is still around 10-15 minutes of clean up for 2-3 seconds of #### up.

I think I spent around $3,500 in paint for my entire house (walls, trim/baseboards, doors, railings, wainscoting etc.) with 3 different colors and that's with like 40-60% off for volume and the occasional special discounts. Basically anything that wasn't floor, ceiling or glass was painted and my home is a slightly bigger house too. The Sherwin Williams rep was so confused and wondered what we were doing because they said a typical refresh was around $1-2K in paint at most. I think my home was larger, we did basically more painting than normal (basically everything) and there was excess paint usage from the airless. However, I don't regret it. The paint looks so much nicer sprayed than brushed/rolled and due to the thickness of the paint, it is more durable as I can gently clean it with soap and water without immediate fading of the paint. Other houses, damn. It fades with just a wet paper towel or it's done so poorly the paint is chipping off immediately. New builds seem like the worst for some of this.

After a lot of research, my contractor purchased and learned how to use an airless paint sprayer on my refresh project. The main considerations were that HVLP seemed better for smaller batch projects while airless is better for larger scale projects. He'd hang dozens of cabinet doors and regular sized doors on a wire system he built in my garage and just blast half a dozen to a dozen items in quick succession. More pre-prep than other people's set ups where they did smaller batches, but I think his set up worked great for what we were doing and less likely to get smudges while drying. What was also great was that when he used the sprayer, it was rare he'd take a look at the end result and do a second coat. So the end result was often something that looked like 2 coats of paint via brush/roller.

IMO you can get away with less pre-prep for HVLP than airless. If you cut and tape poorly, you might blow away your plastic and then you'll have paint somewhere it's not supposed to be that you have to clean or cover. Definitely consider using thumb tacks to hold the plastic in place. You do want to chemically strip and sand down the cabinets well before priming and painting. That helps a ton with the final durability and reduces paint dripping. You have to clean it all ASAP daily so pre-prep also helps to reduce paint waste or clogging. You won't save much overall time with using a paint sprayer than other methods. However, I believe the best thing about paint sprayer is that the end result looks better with similar time spent than other methods.

HVLP has a supposedly lower error rate, so it's supposedly easier for beginners. Airless has more learning curve, but more options as you get familiar with it. My contractor said he loved the end result, but he's not interested in doing that type of project again on a time line. He said it was great learning but he would only use the paint sprayer in limited situations. A few months later though, he laughed about how satisfied he was in painting an entire garage in around 20 minutes.

Last edited by DoubleF; 06-27-2023 at 10:58 AM.
DoubleF is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to DoubleF For This Useful Post:
Old 06-27-2023, 11:12 AM   #5478
I-Hate-Hulse
Franchise Player
 
I-Hate-Hulse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Sector 7-G
Exp:
Default

Great info, thanks DoubleF! Quotes so far for the island +3 smaller pieces are in the $6K-7.5K range so far so costs definitely seem to be up right now.

For my scale of work, HVLP seems to be the way to go, snagged a Wagner 3500 on sale. If I ever get to large scale work (i.e. wall painting) I'll just grab an airless at that time.

This was meant to be a "small & expensive" refresh, but the little things sure are starting to add up (i.e. new sinks, faucets, etc)...
I-Hate-Hulse is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to I-Hate-Hulse For This Useful Post:
Old 06-27-2023, 01:12 PM   #5479
EldrickOnIce
Franchise Player
 
EldrickOnIce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago
Exp:
Default

A word to the wise. Scale sometimes is not obvious between design and build.
Outdoor hardscape demo and remake in progress. This is not DIY by any means.
Planning for an outdoor TV, recessed above the new unilock block gas fireplace. So the answer was 75" tv, of course. Should have maybe just stuck with projector on the wall...
Momma is flipping out right now, particularly how it looks from the back. I'm hoping she will get over it but that's not a certainty at this point. Will wind up a little over 9ft high.
EldrickOnIce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2023, 09:54 AM   #5480
photon
The new goggles also do nothing.
 
photon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Calgary
Exp:
Default

The enclosed fixture in my home office keeps eating LED bulbs even ones that are supposedly rated for an enclosed fixture.

And I'd like more light in my office sometimes.

Anyone put in a cool light fixture into their home office they want to show off? I figure I don't need to match the rest of the house.

Maybe something like this?



Other cool ideas?
__________________
Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
photon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:55 AM.

Calgary Flames
2023-24




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright Calgarypuck 2021