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Old 06-08-2006, 04:05 PM   #21
ken0042
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The one thing with both of those is they give you a similar total square footage; once you factor in a basement. Normally the problem with a bungalow is the footprint; if you have a small yard it can take a chunk out of your property.

But from the sounds of things this won't be an issue; am I right?
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Old 06-08-2006, 04:07 PM   #22
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get creative with the design. Some people are too standard, but I think you could do some pretty cool things.

Mind you I'm totally talking out of my ass right now but I'll give you a couple examples..

in my parents house, the tv room is adjacent to a large games room with a pool table/ping pong table. The sound system is circuited in the large games room and connected to a shelving unit. The shelving unit holds the DVD player, stereo/CD system, VHS player, and a main control box that all of these plug into. Now the shelving unit can revolve within the wall, and can be spun into either the games room or the tv room. It's pretty cool actually.

Another example at my friends house. They are re-doing the basement and are actually making a poker table fixture in the basement that can fold out from a cupboard storage compartment in the wall!

Projection screens are affordable, and just like a movie screen. Good idea too.

Edit: Also in my parents house in the laundry room... two cool things. The room is the directly below the master bedroom, which has a chute. So whenever my parents throw laundry away, it goes into the chute in the wall and falls to the compartment in the actual laundry room. Also there is a wall compartment that you can open and pull out a ironing board that is attached to the wall.

I know a guy that has two levels in his garage for all his cars... and then a power lift elevator to move the vehicles up and down floors... not too sure how many cars you own but.. just another example of creativity.

Last edited by Mr.Coffee; 06-08-2006 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 06-08-2006, 05:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken0042
The one thing with both of those is they give you a similar total square footage; once you factor in a basement. Normally the problem with a bungalow is the footprint; if you have a small yard it can take a chunk out of your property.

But from the sounds of things this won't be an issue; am I right?
the lot is a deep lot, even with a +1400 sq ft bungalow I would still be looking at ~40' to the back fence
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by return to the red
a bar anywhere is nice but yes a wet bar is a must
What is the obsession with these? 75% of the homes that I saw have these didn't use them and had a thick layers of dust. Kitchen's 1 floor up, is it really that much of a bonus? I'd rather keep the room one of these takes up and stick in one of these, with a nice Flames logo:



As for type of house, I'd definately go 2 storey as I suspect that's what the majority of people are looking for in Lethbridge. 2nd choice would be a Bungalow for resale value, I'll bet a lot of people retire there to get away from the "big cities". Both would work well in an estate area.
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:45 PM   #25
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Also forgot to mention this:

If you have the money, go with ICF - Insulated Concrete Forms. It's a rare thing but I can tell you it works miracles. Before I came to Alberta I worked for some guys back home in NS who did this as the basement for a client and the insulation it provides is unbelievable. It was actually a bungalow and the main floor was wood framed. We did it in the summer and you could feel the cold air as you walked down the stairs into the basement.

ICF completely eliminates the need for air conditioning in the summer, and would reduce your heating bill to a fraction of what it would be with wood framing. This stuff is all about energy efficiency, has superior sound proofing and the fire rating is off the chart in comparison to wood framed houses.

You can google for more info and you can start here:
http://www.logixicf.com/client/Logix...ges/index.html
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Old 06-09-2006, 07:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Bronze
Also forgot to mention this:

If you have the money, go with ICF - Insulated Concrete Forms. It's a rare thing but I can tell you it works miracles. Before I came to Alberta I worked for some guys back home in NS who did this as the basement for a client and the insulation it provides is unbelievable. It was actually a bungalow and the main floor was wood framed. We did it in the summer and you could feel the cold air as you walked down the stairs into the basement.

ICF completely eliminates the need for air conditioning in the summer, and would reduce your heating bill to a fraction of what it would be with wood framing. This stuff is all about energy efficiency, has superior sound proofing and the fire rating is off the chart in comparison to wood framed houses.

You can google for more info and you can start here:
http://www.logixicf.com/client/Logix...ges/index.html
approx. how much do you figure this adds to the cost of a house?
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Old 06-09-2006, 09:12 AM   #27
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Just a few things from someone who is in the building process right now (July possession)

1. Get a good set of blinds/shades for the windows.

What I ended up doing is getting a very good set of blinds for the house (Hunter Douglas). These blinds can completely black out the house and keep heat out in the summer and heat in in the winter. My sister installed them in her house, and noticed a 9 degree reduction in temperature on really hot days. Also she saved on her heating bill in the winter. Ideal if you have a bonus room above the garage, because they can get extremely hot in the summer.

2. Make sure you ask alot of questions of a few different builders. Many builders in Calgary (not sure about Lethbridge) have started cutting corners in order to build a house cheaper. In some cases, I have seen houses building in my area using very cheap materials. some builders arent even using Home-wrap anymore, which is essential for keeping moisture from coming in the walls and into the insulation. You will likely start getting mould it the insulation without this wrap.

Also, be sure that your builder garuntees your home price upon building. Some people in Calgary i know have had the builder increase the cost of the house 4 months into the process, because of cost of materials.
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Old 06-09-2006, 09:48 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HitterD
Just a few things from someone who is in the building process right now (July possession)

[edited]

2. Make sure you ask alot of questions of a few different builders. Many builders in Calgary (not sure about Lethbridge) have started cutting corners in order to build a house cheaper. In some cases, I have seen houses building in my area using very cheap materials. some builders arent even using Home-wrap anymore, which is essential for keeping moisture from coming in the walls and into the insulation. You will likely start getting mould it the insulation without this wrap.

Also, be sure that your builder garuntees your home price upon building. Some people in Calgary i know have had the builder increase the cost of the house 4 months into the process, because of cost of materials.
How can they do either of these things? After all, when you buy your home, is it not expected that it will be built to keep water and mold out by using Home-Wrap? Same with other building materials.

After that, how, after you have a signed contract with a purchase price, can they say, "Now give us more money." What can they do? Take the
house that you agreed to buy, they agreed to sell, for a fixed price, signed a contract with that price, begun to build, can they take it away?!?

My suggestions for building a new home (built one before):
1. Remove posts from the basement, move them into the "utility" area.
Costs more, but gives you free reign on how you design your basement.
Nothing like getting a big-screen TV, and no where to view it from because
every angle has a post in the middle of it.

2. Main floor laundry, like most houses have now days, should have a drain
in the floor. I shoved a blanket in my washer the other day, and somehow
it blocked the flow of water and then it spilled all over. Luckily I caught it, but with a drain under the washer, do I care anymore?

3. Rough-in vac should have dust openings, you open a little door and it
turns on the vaccuum, and you can use your broom to push in the stuff.

4. Be creative on the floor. Most go one colour hardwood or something.
Change it up. If you have a kitchen/family room as one big area, use your
floor to distinguish the difference. It can be as simple as one stripe of
dark inbetween your two light colours. I put designs around the fireplace.

5. Knock-down ceiling, makes an area look very nice. I went one step
further, and had a 3-inch strip around a room which was absolutely
smooth, and painted a colour just off the wall colour. Then the ceiling
was painted before the stipple (which is then knocked-down with a trowel).
It gave a nice "warm" effect, and was much cheaper than buying trim.

6. 9 or 10 foot ceilings, where you can, usually basement and main floor.
Opens up the basement nicely if it's not a walkout. Even if it's a walkout,
it gives the look of more room.

7. Carefully select where you want basement bath roughed in. If you are
not sure, don't do it. Later, if you don't want a bathroom where it was
roughed in, they have to rip up the concrete anyways. Put it near the
utility area to keep it out of the way. Combine storage and utility area.

ers
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:10 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericschand
7. Carefully select where you want basement bath roughed in. If you are
not sure, don't do it.
Later, if you don't want a bathroom where it was
roughed in, they have to rip up the concrete anyways.
A lot of what you said were good ideas, however I'm going to have to disagree with what you said. Yes, try to figure out where you want the rough in placed, but get it done. I just finished doing my bathroom rough in for my house because the previous owner didn't get it done. It cost me as follows:

$70 for permit
$200 for parts
$65 for jack hammer rental
$40 for replacement concrete

Plus a full day's work between me and my buddy.

If you do end up selling the house before you do the basement, no rough in is a thing people notice. If it isn't in the exact right spot, then go ahead and move it.

I suppose there are different schools of thought on the issue.
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:27 AM   #30
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Some more thoughts.

-Expand your garage to atleast 24 x 24 if possible.
-Water lines to garage (nice for washing the dog or car)
-Sink in laundry room
-Add blocking (2x6) around the windows during framing so you can hang sheers/curtain rods
-Add blocking if you have a large mirror or painting that you wish to hang
-agree with poster above regarding raising basement ceilings (makes a huge difference)
-if possible try to get a 9' garage door opeing
-soffit plug (most builders do this) for x-mas lights with a switch inside
-buy a slide in Gas range (controls on the front), looks nice
-Get the builder to rough in a garborator switch above counter and install garb yourself
-If you have an island pay the $150 or whatever to install a plug (wish we had done that)
-Make your wife sign a waiver regarding changing exteriors colors after you move in
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:40 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle Eye
-Water lines to garage (nice for washing the dog or car)
Great tips, EE. I would also add a sanitary sewer line to the garage too. That way when you wash the car it all goes down the drain. Plus in Calgary you cannot use soap to wash your car unless it is going down the sanitary sewer line.
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:43 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken0042
Great tips, EE. I would also add a sanitary sewer line to the garage too. That way when you wash the car it all goes down the drain. Plus in Calgary you cannot use soap to wash your car unless it is going down the sanitary sewer line.
Wow never knew that, I am sure that I see thousands of people breaking the law then
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:56 AM   #33
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some great ideas coming out of this thread, i'm writing down as we go!!
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Old 06-09-2006, 11:26 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle Eye
Wow never knew that, I am sure that I see thousands of people breaking the law then
I see lots of people washing the car on the street. I have never even heard of anyone getting a warning for it.

I swear, a bylaw officer could make a killing on my street!
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Old 06-09-2006, 11:48 AM   #35
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Just in case anybody is curious, I did find a link for it:
Can I still wash my car in the driveway?

Yes, it is still okay to wash your car in the driveway provided you use water only (no soap)


I was suprised when I first heard about it as well.
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Old 06-09-2006, 12:00 PM   #36
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Are there bio-degradable or enviromentally safe soaps? (sorry for derailing this thread)
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Old 06-09-2006, 12:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle Eye
Are there bio-degradable or enviromentally safe soaps? (sorry for derailing this thread)
you *******...there probably is enironmentally safe/biodegradable soaps but how well they take off the caked on bug guts and smashed arse holes is beyond me.

back on track, just talked to my builder and we are gonna look at converting a bungalow into sort of a split but I guess that would be just like a bungalow with a walkout...still lots of time to decide though
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Old 06-09-2006, 05:04 PM   #38
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1. Make sure that the stairs are wide. I have seen lots of houses with narrow stairs. Can be a real pain for moving some furniture items. This must be a way for builders to save some money.
2. Also, a large front door is nice so that you don't wrap your knuckles when moving big screen tv into house.
3. Can't remember if it has been mentioned, but get your entertainment wires such as satellite or cable wired in before the drywall goes on. Learned that HDTV dishes require 2 lines and most houses only have 1. Real pain to get installed after the fact.
4. Get natural gas line run to outside for future bbq hookup as well as power if you wanted to put in hottub in the future. Moved into my house in Jan and these are some of things that I didn't think about until after we moved in. May never use them, but at least it would be roughed in.
5. Go with the 2 storey so you don't have to worry about doing the basement right away.
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Old 06-09-2006, 05:29 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by return to the red
approx. how much do you figure this adds to the cost of a house?
Unfortunately you'd have to contact other people to determine that. I know there are folks in the construction department at SAIT who could probably give you an idea, once you know the size of your house and determine if it's a two-storey or bungalow.

I'm not well versed in it myself, just know the advantages it holds. I've only been on two construction sites where I saw it in use. I got a job with a small company that used it exclusively back in Nova Scotia, but two days later I got in my car and drove to Calgary!
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Old 06-09-2006, 05:59 PM   #40
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I too have been considering building an ICF home with geothermal heating but it is so hard to get an idea of the cost premium.

Does anyone know even roughly the cost of 1 cubic foot (or even meter) of concrete? (when purchased in a large amount)

Claeren.
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