Thanks for all the advice. We ended up driving and it was a great experience. We did take the south route as recommended. We left our hotel around 8:30 and stopped at the Hoover Dam along the way. The timing worked out well- we got to the dam and parked at the top level of the parkade. We were only there about an hour, but as we were leaving we saw the line of cars to get in was about 2 miles long. Glad we didn't wait any longer.
I also enjoyed having the freedom to explore the canyon as we wanted. We saw bus tours and they were being herded along somewhat. The one mistake we made was stopping at Kingman for dinner on the way back. That is where all the tour buses stop, and we got to Carls Jr. just after a bus and they were totally defeated.
One thing we did another day was visit Red Rock Canyon, which was about a 30 minute drive from the Strip. Not nearly as impressive as the Grand Canyon, but if you are in Vegas and looking for something to do, it's worth it for the $15 per car admission.
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