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Old 12-14-2014, 02:51 PM   #21
llwhiteoutll
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^ how so?
It's an incredibly simple procedure that take very little in terms of labor and supplies. You could do it in your driveway for ~$15 and 20 minutes of time.

Basically open the reservoir, remove as much as possible with turkey baster, fill with new stuff, turn on car and do a bunch of lock to lock turns, turn off car and open reservoir, remove as much as possible with turkey baster, fill to full with new. Check the fluid after the first drive to make sure the level is still fine.

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Old 12-14-2014, 05:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by llwhiteoutll View Post
It's an incredibly simple procedure that take very little in terms of labor and supplies. You could do it in your driveway for ~$15 and 20 minutes of time.

Basically open the reservoir, remove as much as possible with turkey baster, fill with new stuff, turn on car and do a bunch of lock to lock turns, turn off car and open reservoir, remove as much as possible with turkey baster, fill to full with new. Check the fluid after the first drive to make sure the level is still fine.
Nobody reputable does this. You're just contaminating the new fluid with old fluid by doing this and really not accomplishing much.
That isn't even the correct method to do at home. If you want to do at home after you lifted the car up, empty the reservoir, add new fluid, turn engine on, disconnect the return line from reservoir and direct it in a bucket, keep turning all the way left to right on the steering wheel while continuing adding new fluid to the reservoir making sure the system never sucks in air. Once you see the new fluid expunged out of the return line in the bucket you can stop.

This is essentially what they are doing at the dealership except they connect a machine inline to the system, making it a closed loop system which makes it a one person job, less chance for screw up and less messy.

Is this worth $110? Maybe, maybe not, you could probably find it cheaper somewhere else. The minimum would probably be $75 though, $15 for fluid, $60 for half hr labor. Quick lube places charge $130 for it.

Last edited by zhulander; 12-14-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:23 PM   #23
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If your waterpump is seeping (doesn't have to be puddles), that's not a good thing and will need to be addressed soon. The timing cover is accessible during this process, so if oil is leaking it is good to take care of that at the same time - if you are doing this work it might be a good idea to go one further step and change the timing belt or chain (unfamiliar with Toyota), since all the previous steps are required to change the timing belt and it WILL require changing sooner or later.
As for the steering flush, to do it properly you can't just suck it out and add new, the system needs to be opened and purged to remove impurities lurking in the system - I don't actually run the engine when I do this, but drive the pump shaft with an electric drill with the line disconnected and adding fluid as the contaminated stuff comes out, using a gallon or so of fluid is common for this procedure. So $110 does not seem unreasonable to have this done.
It is always a good idea to take care of oil leaks even if they are seemingly small as they don't get better with time and if let go, they make a real mess of everything - especially all the places you have been parking.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:22 PM   #24
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it's depressing how many of these garages are complete scam artists. take a look at this article. I think a majority of Calgary's tested shops were fraudulent, with just ONE being completely upfront and honest.

http://www.ctvnews.ca/w5-an-undercov...rages-1.629214
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:37 AM   #25
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Bottom line is that the OP should take it to another garage for a second opinion. If the timing cover isn't leaking really bad you could get away with not repairing it. Oil pan gasket is probably sweating not leaking since you don't see spots. Again you can get away with not getting this done but keep in mind that down the road these may have to be addressed when the leaks get worse and you start seeing spots on your garage floor. Water pumps can start to leak long before you notice considerable coolant loss or drips and if this is the case (after 2nd opinion) you should get this done as outright failure could lead to engine overheating. Fuel service cleaning is a waste of money and power steering flush is never a bad idea if it hasn't been done. Prices can vary from shop to shop so getting a 2nd opinion also puts the pricing into perspective.
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:38 AM   #26
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- power steering fluid flush ($110)
Read your owner's manual. It will likely tell you when the power steering fluid should be changed.
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:56 PM   #27
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Don't forget to add some of this stuff:

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Old 12-17-2014, 04:03 PM   #28
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So can we get a consensus on the honest shops?

National Transmission tried to screw me over for 3000.

Volkswagen tried to charge 3500 for a job on the front left axle when the right rear bushing needed to be replaced
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:34 PM   #29
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Vitek for BMWs.

TuneDub for VW/Audi.

Bert & Jack's for Volvo and most German brands... except... RIP Bert & Jack's :'(

Knibbe for pretty much everything, but they may decline some specialized euro work.

I've had personal dealings with all of those and friends and family that have dealt with a few of them. I have going above and beyond stores about the 3 still in business. Haven't found a new Volvo guy yet.
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:52 PM   #30
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Vitek for BMWs.
And new (2002+) MINIs.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:01 PM   #31
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So can we get a consensus on the honest shops?

National Transmission tried to screw me over for 3000.

Volkswagen tried to charge 3500 for a job on the front left axle when the right rear bushing needed to be replaced
This is what I've had trouble with when dealing with mechanics, misdiagnosis, and it's often me that ends up paying for it.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:19 AM   #32
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Bonavista Auto in the SE is good also. Independent shop, primarily domestic.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:02 PM   #33
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Just had a service job from Canadian Tire and 1 day after the engine light goes on, interesting. I feel like going in and questioning the mechanic who worked on my car to see if I can detect any dishonesty or exploitation.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:13 PM   #34
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Bert & Jack's for Volvo and most German brands... except... RIP Bert & Jack's :'(
A huge shout out for Alpine Autowerks. His niche is Porsche but services BMW and MB too. Fantastic shop.
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:49 AM   #35
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Just had a service job from Canadian Tire and 1 day after the engine light goes on, interesting. I feel like going in and questioning the mechanic who worked on my car to see if I can detect any dishonesty or exploitation.
I am still shocked that people actually take vehicles into Canadian Tire for anything other than a tire install. Why would you want the bottom of the barrel "journeyman" or helper monkey touching your car?
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:01 PM   #36
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Because it was close. I'm not going there ever again. I just don't know any reliable mechanic in the NW
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:10 PM   #37
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Bert & Jack's for Volvo and most German brands... except... RIP Bert & Jack's :'(
Really?


Damn it, I always took my vehicles there, from my very first ride.

The scottish fella that worked the front desk was great to deal with, blind as a bat, but great to deal with.
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:14 PM   #38
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I am still shocked that people actually take vehicles into Canadian Tire for anything other than a tire install. Why would you want the bottom of the barrel "journeyman" or helper monkey touching your car?
I have a relative who took their vehicle to Canadian Tire for basic servicing. When they drove off after picking up the vehicle they noticed it wasn't steering properly and was out of alignment. It turns out the vehicle had fallen off the hoist while it was being lowered down. I still don't know how they managed to do that.

The store tried to claim initially nothing had happened but by pure luck a friend of my relative (the vehicle owner) happened to witness it. So then the store tried to downplay it. The store ended up giving a refund plus a settlement for much less than the damage done. The vehicle has since been sold but was never the same after that.

I'd do the work myself before I brought my vehicle into Canadian Tire, yet they seem quite busy especially on weekends
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:18 PM   #39
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I am still shocked that people actually take vehicles into Canadian Tire for anything other than a tire install. Why would you want the bottom of the barrel "journeyman" or helper monkey touching your car?
I had a friend who did the brakes on his vehicle, then a month later took it to Canadian Tire for some tires. He gets a call from them saying that he needs to get his brakes done.

These #######s took his perfectly good brake pads off, and replaced them with some garbage ones they had laying around to try and scam him into getting a brake job done there.

Love CT retail stores but I don't so much as even glance at their parts or service departments anymore
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:25 PM   #40
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^^Everyone knows CT is a bad place to take your car, and Marketplace proved it a number of times.

Enough bad stuff, I'd like to add my recommendation to the others on Bert and Jacks. Where on earth is Peter? They were hit hard by the flood and the electrical problems in that area. Is he ok? Has he opened a new garage yet?
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