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Old 05-15-2013, 09:20 PM   #21
return to the red
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sliver View Post
Have you checked out those hybrid trailers, Boblobla? Those seem like a cool option. Like Ken said, you don't want to be folding down a dinette every night. It takes away some of the fun. Make sure you have a dedicated bed for everybody for maximum fun.

By hybrid I mean one of those hard-shell trailers with just like a tent trailer bed that pops out the back and front. You should be able to get something roomy, but still light enough to tow going that route.
+1

we have a rockwood roo that we got from Guarantee RV and love it!
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:05 AM   #22
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This is my hybrid...
http://photoshare.shaw.ca/messages/v...arm/page/1/15/
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:31 PM   #23
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Also interested in this thread.

Looking into buying for 2014 so would fall 2013 be the best time to buy or spring 2014?

Also I've heard shopping in the states is substantially cheaper.

Have a 2005 Expedition Eddie Bauer with tow package (don't know what that means other than there's a hitch on it and there's a brake thingy (that could be aftermarket) that detaches under the dashboard.

Also confused about the what the weights on the hitch say. There's a hitch I was looking at that says

"12,000 lb trailer weight"

"TONGUE WEIGHT
Tongue weight determined by pull somthing somthing position
1,200 lbs or 1,000 lbs"

And it comes with stabilizer bars that I have no idea what they'd do to increase or stabilize the weight other than it applies force to the front axle.

thanks -apologize boblobla if I'm jacking your thread but also thought any replies might help your thread and the last post was from May.
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:33 PM   #24
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I would look at the RV show in January, that's when we bought ours this year and got a real good deal and better interest rate as well.
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:52 PM   #25
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I would look at the RV show in January, that's when we bought ours this year and got a real good deal and better interest rate as well.
Thanks for the reply but 100% not looking to buy new nor financing. I don't want to end up with something brand new that is a trial for a hobby that may or may not work out

Looking to buy used, find a decent deal and be able to dump if I don't like for 90% of the cost two years later. Something that has depreciated a ton already. I'd guess $4,000 - $8,000.

Additionally I seem to have discovered that buying a hitch that will tow anything heavy might be a bad idea as it sounds like if I have a large tongue weight but barely use it all the trailer may be unpredictable?

Quote:
For example, if the weight distribution system has a 1,000 pound (454 kilogram) tongue weight capacity but the trailer is loaded with only 300 pounds (136 kilograms) of tongue weight with 50 pounds (23 kilograms) of cargo in the trunk of the towing vehicle, you're about 650 pounds (295 kilograms) under the rating. That can make the distribution unpredictable and dangerous. On the other hand, if the system is rated to 1,000 pounds (454 kilograms) of tongue weight but you're attempting to distribute 1,500 pounds (680 kilograms) of tongue weight, the system won't be able to distribute the weight effectively and you'll also have some serious problems. Keep that infamous rule from "The Price Is Right" in mind when choosing a weight distribution system -- you want to bid the closest without going over.

Last edited by ranchlandsselling; 07-01-2013 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:43 PM   #26
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Looks like your truck will have a towing capacity of 6000-8900 pounds
http://www.etrailer.com/question-56403.html

That is the first thing you need to looks at; what your tow vehicle can handle.

A stabalizing system or weight distribution hitch allow you to tow your trailer safer; especially if you are nearing the top of your range. I would say that for anything over 5000 pounds it is a must. However a decent system is in the $500-700 range; which would eat into the budget you are trying to maintain.

As for when to buy used; flip a coin. In the fall you could get somebody who doesn't want to store it over the winter, but in the spring you could have somebody who tried to sell in the fall and is now being more realistic/flexible with their price. If I was buying used I would find out from an RV dealer who will do an inspection for you, and for how much. At $4-8 K you are going to get a well used trailer; so you want to make sure all the essentials work.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:34 PM   #27
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My only real advice is measure the frontage of your house, and buy a trailer that is 8 to 10 feet more. Your neighbours will be happy that you have purchased the ultimate behemoth and no, they won't mind parking down the street while you load, unload, clean and maintain your rig.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:33 AM   #28
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I updated the OP with more recent information. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:49 AM   #29
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The answer to one question in my opinion is yes a power tongue jack is worth it. But honestly I would not have the dealer install it. It is super simple to do, unless it comes with the trailer of course..
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:51 AM   #30
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With your new truck, you have now opened up your search to include 5th wheels.

We transitioned from a bumper pull to a fifth wheel and love it.

Just another option to think about.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:53 AM   #31
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This is the floor plan I keep coming back to. Someday we'll be ready to purchase one, hopefully used to keep the price down

http://www.cruiserrv.com/shadow-crui...fications.html



I think with having kids, giving them there own separate area would be key, especially on the days you are stuck inside.

Also had the outdoor kitchen which I think makes a lot of sense as well.

Dry weight is 5,085, so should pull like a champ, especially with the upgraded tow vehicle. I plan to pull with a 2012 Ram 1500 someday...
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:57 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boblobla View Post
UPDATE:
So, based on this thread and some visits to look at trailers I have upgraded my truck. I now have a 2012 RAM 3500 so towing capacity is no a concern.

We have narrowed down what type of floor plan we want, I have a few specific questions now for what options are worth it and which are not.

What size would your recommend as a min for water, grey water and black water tanks?

Are electric jacks worth the extra money?

Should I be worried if there isn't a manual option for the slides? I have heard it is a good idea to have a manual as well as electronic way to close the slides.

The trailer we are leaning towards is from Bucars, a Sporttrek by Venture RV. Anyone familiar with this brand?

Thanks again for the help.
My trailer has 36 gallon fresh (30 for water and 6 for the hot water) and it's fine for the wife and I for a long weekend (conserving water during our 1 or 2 showers each). 30 gallon each for grey and black. For a family of 4 I would imagine you could do fine with a 40 gallon fresh water. Never have filled the black or grey water in one weekend.

I do fine with my manual jacks, it all depends on how lazy you are. If you get some wood blocks for under the jacks you don't have to crank them as far.

I was under the impression that all power slides and awnings had to have a manual option in the event there is an issue with the motors.

Never heard of those RV's so I can't comment.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:39 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Madman View Post
With your new truck, you have now opened up your search to include 5th wheels.

We transitioned from a bumper pull to a fifth wheel and love it.

Just another option to think about.
I have thought about it but I use my truck as a truck quite a bit and want to have a fully functioning bed.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:49 AM   #34
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My trailer has 36 gallon fresh (30 for water and 6 for the hot water) and it's fine for the wife and I for a long weekend (conserving water during our 1 or 2 showers each). 30 gallon each for grey and black. For a family of 4 I would imagine you could do fine with a 40 gallon fresh water. Never have filled the black or grey water in one weekend.
Then there's me. I have 50 gallon fresh (44+6) and 31 gallon grey; 41 gallon black. I have filled the grey tank over a 4 night camping trip; especially when my wife was first getting used to how to have an RV shower.

It all depends on how you define a weekend. Do you pull in at noon on Friday, or 9 pm? Do you leave right after breakfast Sunday, or later in the afternoon? The difference takes the trip from 36 to 48 hours. Factor out sleeping time and you have an "awake and using water time" difference of 20 to 32 hours.

It's also nice to be able to extend the stay if you want to. Our 3 day camping trip turned into 5 this spring; and the determining factor was that we had enough food.

Personally I would never go with less than 50 gallons fresh, and 40 grey. Black tank doesn't matter nearly as much.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:14 PM   #35
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See comments in text below.

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Originally Posted by Boblobla View Post
I don't really understand tow capacity vs tongue weight (is tongue weight the same as hitch weight?). I am assuming I need to be aware of both when purchasing a trailer?

Not with your new truck you don't!! You could haul your old truck AND your jeep behind that beast!

We have a family of 4, what length of trailer is a minimum?

I would not limit to a length but take your kids with you shopping and spend some time inside and see how it works out.



Are electric jacks worth the extra money? Another option for the footing jacks is an electric drill with the right bit on the end. Zips the feet down in no time flat. I do have an electric jack but have not installed it yet so I am still manual and am fine with that. As stated, a block of wood to reduce the turns is a good idea.

Should I be worried if there isn't a manual option for the slides? I have heard it is a good idea to have a manual as well as electronic way to close the slides. I believe there has to be one. Ask the guy or check the manual.

The trailer we are leaning towards is from Bucars, a Sporttrek by Venture RV. Anyone familiar with this brand?

Don't know the brand. We bought from Bucars and were very happy with the experience.

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:30 PM   #36
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BTW, for those of you still using wooden blocks for your leveling / stabilizer feet, I highly recommend you get yourself some plastic ones like the Lynx Levelers or equivalent. A lot less messy and lighter than the planks I used to haul around.

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Old 07-15-2013, 12:40 PM   #37
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BTW, for those of you still using wooden blocks for your leveling / stabilizer feet, I highly recommend you get yourself some plastic ones like the Lynx Levelers or equivalent. A lot less messy and lighter than the planks I used to haul around.


I have plastic ones as well as wood, I go wood under the tires and plastic under the stabilizing jacks.
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:45 PM   #38
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I have thought about it but I use my truck as a truck quite a bit and want to have a fully functioning bed.
I hear ya - they do make hitches that come completely out of the bed and leave no rails at all so your bed it totally usable.

You pay a premium for that type of hitch, but it's worth it if you want that flexibility.

Just something to keep in mind if you find a 5th wheel layout you really like.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:15 AM   #39
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Few more questions.

Stabilizer bars, are they a good idea all the time? Are they expensive?
Who is good for insurance on RVs? My home/auto is with Meloche Monnex.

Where is a good storage place south of Calgary. I know I have seen a ton around High River but I am a little gun shy getting something in that area...
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:25 AM   #40
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Stabilizer bars on anything more than a pop-up make a huge difference. Usually the difference between a comfortable tow and a white-knuckle tow, especially during crosswinds. I have the Reese Dual Cam combination weight distribution / anti sway hitch, and love it. Solid setup. I think I paid around $500, but that was a few years ago.
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