To revisit the tubes vs. tubeless road bike debate, I have switched sides. In an event a couple of weeks ago I got 2 flats due to a small staple in the tire (didn’t find it after the first flat), while comfortably riding with the lead group. So after a tube change, then a patch job and second reinflate, of course I had lost the lead group and finished way down.
I’ve have had more than my share of bad luck with flats, particularly in races. So I decided to go tubeless, it can’t go worse than how I’ve done with tubes.
Install was painless (a bit tighter to get on the wheel) and the first couple rides have gone well, including the badlands fondo yesterday. Hopefully no more tire issues….
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I think the big thing with tubeless is not all setups are equal. With a good setup, mounting tires with a handpump is a simple task. With a crap setup, you'll be fighting every tire change and have catastrophic failure in the back of your mind during rides.
Hopefully UST wheels get more common and rim tape goes away.
Anyone a pro with the Giant D-fuse seat system? It's creaking and driving me nuts, have cleaned it, lubed it, torqued it to spec, overtorqued it... Always comes back and I'm at my wits end.
I'm not a pro with anything put you shouldn't lube it, carbon paste should be the solution. Also what sounds like a creaky seat post could be something else, carbon frames transfer sound incredibly well. might be dirt on the rails of your seat where it connects to the post
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I'm not a pro with anything put you shouldn't lube it, carbon paste should be the solution. Also what sounds like a creaky seat post could be something else, carbon frames transfer sound incredibly well. might be dirt on the rails of your seat where it connects to the post
It's just an aluminum frame and seatpost, but maybe carbon paste would still help?
For what it's worth I literally rode around with the seat off the bike for 5 minutes and the noise was gone haha
I'm spending a few days in Golden next week and will be bringing my road bike. I know there's lots of MTB trails but are there any decent routes for road riding?
you can use the Strava heat maps for the area. I think that's still free.
There's really not many options there.
Also lots of construction so be aware of larger vehicles and gravelly shoulders.
If you have an option of sliding some 'cross tires (~30-33mm) that opens more options up.
It's a standard classic alloy clincher road rim - entry level, nothing fancy, and I have caliper brakes (no disc brakes). Is it possible to swap in a wider tire with a little more tread if there is enough clearance onto the old rim? Possible to go tubeless?
I am looking for more comfort, slightly improved ability on rough terrain/bumps, not having my tire get stuck in grates and ruts, and safety against flats when I'm out on my own.
I ride alone 100% of the time (still working on convincing my friends to join the bike gang) and I am not able to deal with flats on my own. I tried levering off my tire and tube once and took it to a shop after an hour of frustrating.
You can easily move up to a 25 as long as your frame allows for it and it doesn’t rub. Comfort level goes up quite a bit. It won’t make a difference for changing the ease of tire changes though. I find that tires with Kevlar beads (folding type) are easier to change than steel beaded ones. Tire changing does take some practise.
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It's a standard classic alloy clincher road rim - entry level, nothing fancy, and I have caliper brakes (no disc brakes). Is it possible to swap in a wider tire with a little more tread if there is enough clearance onto the old rim? Possible to go tubeless?
I am looking for more comfort, slightly improved ability on rough terrain/bumps, not having my tire get stuck in grates and ruts, and safety against flats when I'm out on my own.
I ride alone 100% of the time (still working on convincing my friends to join the bike gang) and I am not able to deal with flats on my own. I tried levering off my tire and tube once and took it to a shop after an hour of frustrating.
You could probably fit a 25mm or 28 mm, what bike is it? If it's an entry level rim it's likely not a tubeless rim but you can buy kits to make it tubeless, not sure how well the kits work though
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It's a standard classic alloy clincher road rim - entry level, nothing fancy, and I have caliper brakes (no disc brakes). Is it possible to swap in a wider tire with a little more tread if there is enough clearance onto the old rim? Possible to go tubeless?
I guess it depends on your bike's geometry and the tire brand. I've only been able to go up to 25mm (Continental) on my road bike. I tried a 28mm (Continental) and, while it fit width-wise, the 28mm was taller. Over time, the tire will stretch and the diameter will increase as well. I suspect you can at least go to 25mm but you probably have to use some trial and error for anything wider.
One thing I've done with my 25s is lower the pressure to 85-90 psi when riding the bumpy Calgary roads and pathways. Conventional wisdom was always inflate to max psi for lower contact area, more speed, etc. But that wisdom didn't account for suspension losses. IE, the higher psi tires are more tiring to the body and, thus, slower. So, you can run lower pressure to make the ride more comfortable without really sacrificing speed.
I guess it depends on your bike's geometry and the tire brand. I've only been able to go up to 25mm (Continental) on my road bike. I tried a 28mm (Continental) and, while it fit width-wise, the 28mm was taller. Over time, the tire will stretch and the diameter will increase as well. I suspect you can at least go to 25mm but you probably have to use some trial and error for anything wider.
One thing I've done with my 25s is lower the pressure to 85-90 psi when riding the bumpy Calgary roads and pathways. Conventional wisdom was always inflate to max psi for lower contact area, more speed, etc. But that wisdom didn't account for suspension losses. IE, the higher psi tires are more tiring to the body and, thus, slower. So, you can run lower pressure to make the ride more comfortable without really sacrificing speed.
Years back I had a significant injury that easily gave me headaches especially when riding (which I did and still do a lot) my old Cannondale Synpase (full carbon). One of the best things I did back then was get rid of my ~21-23mm tires... managed to put a 25mm in the rear and a 28mm up front at about 90/75psi respectively. It was incredible what an improvement I felt. Actually ended up doing a Gran Fondo with that setup.
For the 28mm the fork space was fairly tight so I couldn't go over ~80psi or I encountered frame rub whilst leaning through corners (this was with a set of Mavic Ksyriums).
So yeah, try some different tires and pressures.
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I guess it depends on your bike's geometry and the tire brand. I've only been able to go up to 25mm (Continental) on my road bike. I tried a 28mm (Continental) and, while it fit width-wise, the 28mm was taller. Over time, the tire will stretch and the diameter will increase as well. I suspect you can at least go to 25mm but you probably have to use some trial and error for anything wider.
One thing I've done with my 25s is lower the pressure to 85-90 psi when riding the bumpy Calgary roads and pathways. Conventional wisdom was always inflate to max psi for lower contact area, more speed, etc. But that wisdom didn't account for suspension losses. IE, the higher psi tires are more tiring to the body and, thus, slower. So, you can run lower pressure to make the ride more comfortable without really sacrificing speed.
This is true . You also have to take into account when going bigger tires thqt they are a big Ballon essentially so when you push one side the other will grow . Common wisdom is to give yourself 5mm on each side and top. This gives you room to have the tire expand aswell provides adequate room to most debris to move through and in case your goes out of true for various reasons.
I don't generally don't like this guys videos but this interview is pretty good. Back in 2016 before lowering pressure was more common knowledge me and another guy in the shop actually sat down and worked on a chart for best tire pressures that coralated with peoples weight,type of riding,tire casings etc etc it was full out need mode.
To revisit the tubes vs. tubeless road bike debate, I have switched sides. In an event a couple of weeks ago I got 2 flats due to a small staple in the tire (didn’t find it after the first flat), while comfortably riding with the lead group. So after a tube change, then a patch job and second reinflate, of course I had lost the lead group and finished way down.
I’ve have had more than my share of bad luck with flats, particularly in races. So I decided to go tubeless, it can’t go worse than how I’ve done with tubes.
Install was painless (a bit tighter to get on the wheel) and the first couple rides have gone well, including the badlands fondo yesterday. Hopefully no more tire issues….
In 2021 there is absolutely not reason not to go tubeless.
Just yesterday I was doing my bi weekly tire check and found 4 smaller nails a bunch of thorns . Thanks to my tubless setup it never lost any air. I just pulled them out and that was that.
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Any specific shop I should go to with my wheel and tire inquiries?
The bike I bought off FB marketplace last month was a pretty entry-level road bike. Carbon fork and alu frame with mostly Shimano Sora. I'm adding in a Chinese carbon seat post to try out but I've maxed out what I can do for upgrades short of replacing the Sora for 105.
I am thinking wheels are one thing I could do for lightness and comfort and hence why I am wondering about going to tubeless and wider tires. It's not something I can do in my small condo so bringing the bike to a shop and being able to see some wheel and tire options and checking clearance is probably the best idea.
I am in Fernie for a few days and everything here is running real nice.
Will be interesting to see how the legs feel tomorrow as today I went for two rides with a little over 50k. The second ride got out of hand as it was harder than planned.
Wound up with a free pizza from the funky goat for dinner. The za I paid for was delicious so the free one should be better. I was happy the box fit in the bar fridge for f the small place I am staying at
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Another +1 for me on 4iiii. I have their power metres on my S5 and my Huru. My only complaint about them is with their app. Since I have two bikes that each have a power meter, I want the app to show me both. This is where you can see the battery life in them (one per side) and do a zero offset (calibrate). My issue is that they only allow you to sync up with one bike. I guess you could sign up a second email account and add the information to it, but you'd still have to sign in and out every time. I contacted them a year ago when I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working for me, and they said it's designed this way.
The latest version of the 4iiii app looks like you can have multiple power metres on multiple bikes on the same account. I can't test it out, as my other bike is in the shop getting a new frame, but it looks promising.
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Question for you all about drafting etiquette; or if there even is such a thing. The other day going into work I had somebody catch up to me while I was waiting for the light at the detour by Bonnybrook. I went ahead, and she followed right behind me. For the entire way under the tracks, beside the river etc she was right behind me and slightly to the left. Her front tire was maybe a foot or two away from my rear. After a kilometre of this I pulled over by the bird sanctuary to let her pass.
We were going into a 15 km/h headwind, so nothing crazy. My question, is it considered acceptable to draft so close to somebody you don't know in a recreational setting? I could see doing it in a race or something. I am still a little cautious since my crash a while back, so I wasn't comfortable.
Sounds like she didn’t say anything to you, just dropped in behind you?
Yeah, that’s kind of against the unwritten rules. If a person asks, or if the person ahead offers, sure why not. But unless it is people you are riding with or in an organized group ride or race, I think it’s kind of uncool.
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It's definitely poor etiquette to draft off someone you don't know during a commute. If she had made an effort to let you know she was back there, and that she was staying back there, it would be different. Just riding closely behind a stranger is generally frowned upon for safety reasons as well as being rude.
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