Are all the lights connected to the same breaker on the breaker panel? I can't image they wouldn't be, but it seems odd that they'd have two switches for a storage room. I'm just wondering if there's a reason for it.
I'm not an electrician, I'm just curious.
No idea. But, there have been some odd things about this house. Different counter heights in the kitchen being one (like left side was lower/bathroom height) then the right side).
Roof draining into rather than away from the chimney. Thanks guys.
So nothing really surprises me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaperBagger'14
This will work but make sure you delete the wire going from S2 to light 3 in case they are on different breakers (long story but 50% chance it could be an issue if you dont delete the wire between the switch and light). A run down list:
1) Delete wire from s2 to light 3.
2) install new wire from light 2 to light 3.
3) install new wire from light 3 to light 4 (if desired).
There is also a chance the electrician ran the wires a little funny, if the above doesnt work PM me and I'll give you the solution.
You are correct that to install a new light, you can go from the closest light to the new location. You may have to splice the wires in the outlet box and run pig tails to the existing light (youtube it). From there you can run your new wire to the new light location.
Just getting around to going through this now. I had a few items pop up on the honey-do list.
The electrical box for 2 is halfway between 1 & 2 (of note, the diagram is shocking not to scale).
Should I run from the box to the light, or can I go light to light? I feel like box is correct, but is light to light necessarily wrong? (This isn't my field of expertise so it could be the most idiotic thing ever).
Was also considering just moving 3 to the 4 position. Although I have extra fixtures so it really doesn't matter.
Lastly, is there a particular type of wire to get? Rather what particular type of wire should I get?
Thanks to all for the help, even if you're not quoted, your feedback is appreciated!
__________________ "Calgary Flames is the best team in all the land" - My Brainwashed Son
No idea. But, there have been some odd things about this house. Different counter heights in the kitchen being one (like left side was lower/bathroom height) then the right side).
Roof draining into rather than away from the chimney. Thanks guys.
So nothing really surprises me.
Just getting around to going through this now. I had a few items pop up on the honey-do list.
The electrical box for 2 is halfway between 1 & 2 (of note, the diagram is shocking not to scale).
Should I run from the box to the light, or can I go light to light? I feel like box is correct, but is light to light necessarily wrong? (This isn't my field of expertise so it could be the most idiotic thing ever).
Was also considering just moving 3 to the 4 position. Although I have extra fixtures so it really doesn't matter.
Lastly, is there a particular type of wire to get? Rather what particular type of wire should I get?
Thanks to all for the help, even if you're not quoted, your feedback is appreciated!
You can run light to light and delete the box if you wish, I cant see how everything is wired but light to light is generally accepted.
The wire you want is 14 gauge 2 conductor NMD90 (loomex)
Is swapping a humifier as simple as disconnecting and reconnecting a replacement one in the same spot? (ie: Like a bigger thermostat?) or are there more considerations?
If you have tin snips, mastic tape, sheet metal screws you should be set. I forget what else we needed. I actually got rid of ours cause the straddle valve started leaking and we don’t even need the humidity. We have dozens of tropical houseplants plants that seem to provide all of the humidity we need.
"Does a simple DIY home improvement take that long?"
Of course it does, are you new to this? It probably takes 3x as long! Extra trip or 2 to the hardware store, 20 minutes to bandage up a cut finger and cleanup all the blood, searching for a screw you dropped...
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If you have tin snips, mastic tape, sheet metal screws you should be set. I forget what else we needed. I actually got rid of ours cause the straddle valve started leaking and we don’t even need the humidity. We have dozens of tropical houseplants plants that seem to provide all of the humidity we need.
Yeah... I don't have half that stuff and I wasn't sure if I should get it so that I can do it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzz
"Does a simple DIY home improvement take that long?"
Of course it does, are you new to this? It probably takes 3x as long! Extra trip or 2 to the hardware store, 20 minutes to bandage up a cut finger and cleanup all the blood, searching for a screw you dropped...
I might as well call someone up to do it for me and give them the $150-200 it'll cost to do. I don't have half the tools and materials required anyways, so it's not too bad of a price to pay.
I watched a guy (professional even) shred his shirt on badly cut HVAC... so avoiding this for me sounds like the best idea.
Try to avoid Youtube videos where people fail at their task.
Speaking of which, where the heck does one buy a blade guard for a Dewalt table saw? The contractor that sleezed out of a job left it, but it’s missing the guard. Every time I have used it, it scares the crap out of me.
* tin snips are useful. Especially for opening things in certain plastic packaging.
"Does a simple DIY home improvement take that long?"
Of course it does, are you new to this? It probably takes 3x as long! Extra trip or 2 to the hardware store, 20 minutes to bandage up a cut finger and cleanup all the blood, searching for a screw you dropped...
Yes, yes it does. Took me 3 hours to rewire a light onto a different switch, and install a new light on the same switch with an open ceiling.
Didn't seem like it was that long, but that's what the wife said.
__________________ "Calgary Flames is the best team in all the land" - My Brainwashed Son
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"Does a simple DIY home improvement take that long?"
Of course it does, are you new to this? It probably takes 3x as long! Extra trip or 2 to the hardware store, 20 minutes to bandage up a cut finger and cleanup all the blood, searching for a screw you dropped...
A couple YouTube videos, undoing what you just did to do it properly....yep. Easily 3x if not more.
You don't need to know how many hours I put into the ceiling fan that I literally just finished in my bedroom...
I had a horrible experience with a Costco bathroom exhaust fan. It was supposed to be a remodel kit, but it wasn’t. It could only be installed through the attic if you had a finished ceiling. That was a 2 day job for the first bathroom and the next one took one day. Not a normal DIY project.
At least runs quietly and turns on automatically when humidity is detected.
Oh God, somebody finally did a video. If I saw this before, I would have never bought these. I felt committed though and my wife was giving me a hard time about it.
I don't really see why you would have to go into the attic to install that. If the guy had an oscillating saw he could have cut the screws from below. Would have had a mess from the insulation but seems completely manageable. What other issues were there for you?
Try to avoid Youtube videos where people fail at their task.
Speaking of which, where the heck does one buy a blade guard for a Dewalt table saw? The contractor that sleezed out of a job left it, but it’s missing the guard. Every time I have used it, it scares the crap out of me.
* tin snips are useful. Especially for opening things in certain plastic packaging.
interesting... the first thing i did with my table saw was remove the blade guard - ha! i don't have a dewalt or else i'd send you mine!
I don't really see why you would have to go into the attic to install that. If the guy had an oscillating saw he could have cut the screws from below. Would have had a mess from the insulation but seems completely manageable. What other issues were there for you?
The one issue was the massive exhaust port on it that protruded from the side. To slide it into the ceiling it needed to be partially disassembled, the other was that it was supposed to be braced between the joists.
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I'm looking at doing a legal suite in a basement and one of the requirements is to have a separate heating system. The options so far I've seen are a separate furnace and ducting system, and electric baseboard heating with some kind of heat recovery circulation system which also needs a separate duct work.
Problem is the basement is already finished, so to put in and alter existing duct work I think would require tearing down a decent amount of drywall.
Anyone know of any other options? I was thinking of in floor heating, my condo has that and it doesn't have any kind of air circulation. Would I be able to just seal of the existing ducts for the basement and put in in floor heating? Or would that still require some air circulation?
Any other options?
__________________ Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
