The Winter's Coming Winter Tires Thread

[I-Hate-Hulse]

Originally Posted by Sliver

I always think it will take 30 minutes, but I seem awesome at stretching it out to an hour.

I find the actual time to lift the car and gun the lugs off doesn't take that long. It's the prep time that draws things out - getting the tools and equipment out, checking for nails, inflating the tires, and worst of all - hauling the tires down from the racks mounted high on the garage wall. (I have limited floor space in my 22x21 garage). Then repeat to put it all away.

Aside from the inevitable hernia - if I have the time it's actually 2 hrs of enjoyable 'me' time. 2 hrs of vintage Top Gear on the garage TV, beers, and working on cars. Nice if I have the time.

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by I-Hate-Hulse

I find the actual time to lift the car and gun the lugs off doesn't take that long. It's the prep time that draws things out - getting the tools and equipment out, checking for nails, inflating the tires, and worst of all - hauling the tires down from the racks mounted high on the garage wall. (I have limited floor space in my 22x21 garage). Then repeat to put it all away.

Aside from the inevitable hernia - if I have the time it's actually 2 hrs of enjoyable 'me' time. 2 hrs of vintage Top Gear on the garage TV, beers, and working on cars. Nice if I have the time.

Yeah, so true. It is the prep. Actual job isn't the worst.

My son did a great job helping this year, so that was a bonus. He did the last wheel completely without help...took it off, labelled it, put the new one on, torqued the lugs and inflated it up to the correct pressure. Teaching him was pretty cool...he's helped before, but this was the first year he could manage things without me directing every move (he's 15).

[DoubleF]

I always wear a weight lifting belt when I do the tires. I have to haul the tires from the shed. With 17-18 inch tire on the vehicles now, they are really hefty. I also always do alloys for my winters. It costs more, looks nicer, less rust, but holy hell the main reason is the weight difference between the steelies and alloys is quite noticeable when pulling them out of storage.

I find I often think I'll take 30 minutes, but it takes closer to 45-55 mins due to prep and small things. Some small things seem trivial but do add around 1-2 minutes per tire which slowly adds up to that 15 minute time overage. I pulled the trigger on a wireless torque wrench. That should save about 5 minutes of detangling extension cords, plugging in, moving the cord around and the occasional snags when transitioning from tire to tire.

Do other people not clean the threads before putting the tire back on? I usually wipe off any basic dust and dirt using my glove and occasionally I'll put a drop of some type of lube before tightening the nut, especially if I see a hint of a film of rust.

I gotta buy that oil pen to replace the permanent marker to label the tires. I think that'll also be pretty sweet in terms of replacing the chalk/permanent market method I was using before.

[Erick Estrada]

It usually takes at least an hour for me and likely longer but I take my time cleaning the hubs, brake calipers (I like to keep the Brembos shiny), and generally inspecting brake lines, etc. The 21 inch wheels/tires on my X3M were also pretty heavy so to save my back I take my time.

[Fuzz]

I use a bit of anti-seize on lug nuts. You can get it in a tube like lipstick and just rub it on one side, the nuts spread it across the threads. Just takes a second, never had an issue with seized lugnuts.

[Sliver]

I don't put jack #### on my lug nuts.

Guess that's another little mini job I can add to this process for next year.

[d00little]

Lube or anti-seize on lug nuts is a very controversial topic on the Interwebz. You can find proponents on both sides (to use and to not).

TireRack.com recommends not putting anything on the thread or seats (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=107).

[Erick Estrada]

Originally Posted by d00little

Lube or anti-seize on lug nuts is a very controversial topic on the Interwebz. You can find proponents on both sides (to use and to not).

I only put a light brushing on hubs and that's for the winter wheels only as I don't use any for the summer wheels. I've had a few winter wheels stick to the hup pretty good. Never used it on lug nuts.

[btimbit]

Same here, hubs yes but nuts no

[Chingas]

Any lube on the studs can lead to over torqued lug nuts. The torque specified in the manual is a dry torque.

Also if you have a stubborn or siezed lug nut you are far better to remove it with an impact wrench than a long bar. An impact wrench will rattle it free with less chance of breaking the stud. If you break a stud while removing lug nuts with an impact then it was compromised and needed to be replaced anyway. If you break a stud with a long bar the Stud could have been fine but you may have imparted a sideways force on the stud and broken it.

Ideal setup is an impact to remove nuts. Only light torque with impact on installation and then finish the torque with a torque wrench.

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by d00little

Lube or anti-seize on lug nuts is a very controversial topic on the Interwebz. You can find proponents on both sides (to use and to not).

TireRack.com recommends not putting anything on the thread or seats (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=107).

Oh, I know. But I've done it for years, and when I worked in a shop they did it for decades. Never had one come loose, or a customer come back with issues, so I'm sticking with it.

[DoubleK]

Originally Posted by btimbit

Same here, hubs yes but nuts no

You don't lube your nuts?

[Ryan Coke]

I had a flat that the wheel stuck to the hub a number of years ago, making it a hell of a time to do a roadside switch to my spare. After that I started putting a bit of anti seize on.

Some good info here on grease on the threads though. I didn’t think of the torque difference dry or greased.

[81MC]

Don’t lubricate wheel studs. I’m not aware of any OEM procedure that calls for that. There’s no need, and they’re intended to be torqued dry.
L

[powderjunkie]

Originally Posted by DoubleK

You don't lube your nuts?

Driveshaft only.

Originally Posted by Chingas

Any lube on the studs can lead to over torqued lug nuts. The torque specified in the manual is a dry torque.

Also if you have a stubborn or siezed lug nut you are far better to remove it with an impact wrench than a long bar. An impact wrench will rattle it free with less chance of breaking the stud. If you break a stud while removing lug nuts with an impact then it was compromised and needed to be replaced anyway. If you break a stud with a long bar the Stud could have been fine but you may have imparted a sideways force on the stud and broken it.

Ideal setup is an impact to remove nuts. Only light torque with impact on installation and then finish the torque with a torque wrench.

Are you talking about loosening the lug nuts before lifting the car?

[Hack&Lube]

My old car broke down and I picked up a 2023 Tesla Model 3 RWD (AWD/Dual motor is way out of my budget).

I used to have an AWD SUV with all seasons and that was fine but being RWD, I'm concerned about winter tires. I'm really confused by a lot of the options out there. I think for maximum safety and to deal with black ice conditions, I should get studded tires?

I'm between two extremes right now:

NOKIAN TYRES
HAKKAPELIITTA 10 STUDDED - $336.78/tire

or go the budget route

ZETA ANTARCTICA SPORT + STUDS - 198.69/tire

I also need a set of wheels for this so that I don't need to do a tire swap every season. I've also heard concerns about tire installers that don't lift the vehicle with the battery correctly which could cause damage.

[woob]

I'm not sure you need studded in Calgary? Others may be able to chime in but I think a good winter should be sufficient for 95% of Calgary driving days.

[CorsiHockeyLeague]

Definitely don't need studded, but the Hakkas are worth the extra coin.

I need to get new winters just due to the age of mine, tires are almost ten years old now. Still good tread but I'm going to have to be on the lookout. Problem is I need 3 sets in the next 12 months or so... does anyone in town do a good deal for buying multiples like that?

[Fuzz]

Given the excess weight of a Tesla, studded tires might not be the worst idea for stopping.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by woob

I'm not sure you need studded in Calgary? Others may be able to chime in but I think a good winter should be sufficient for 95% of Calgary driving days.

You don't "need" studded in Calgary. But if you're the type that lets tires get super old (because drive little and tons of tread) or if you like to drive speed limit during snow storms, or live on a house on a hill that occasionally ices over, I guess you can consider them an inexpensive performance feature?

Originally Posted by CorsiHockeyLeague

Definitely don't need studded, but the Hakkas are worth the extra coin.

I need to get new winters just due to the age of mine, tires are almost ten years old now. Still good tread but I'm going to have to be on the lookout. Problem is I need 3 sets in the next 12 months or so... does anyone in town do a good deal for buying multiples like that?

I've always been happy with UrbanX. You can always call them and ask if doing something like that would yield some form of benefit. The worst they can say is no.