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Old 07-24-2009, 06:24 PM   #221
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Wow. I am a little surprised by the 1500-1600 calorie recommendation (it is just a guideline though as every body will be different). I entered sedentary in the activity/profile areas of Fitday to see what it would give me and the lowest I got was 2200. How are you feeling at that amount of food?
The only way it makes sense is if you're taller and/or heavier than me. I feel pretty good on that amount of food. I have lots of energy and I'm only a little hungry.
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:39 PM   #222
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Fixed.



Everytime I see Chris Sharma climb I am absolutely amazed by his ability. Anyone that is interested in this kind of thing should check out the documentary "King Lines" for some amazing climbing and cinematography from all over the world (ie. bouldering on the top of Roraima in Venezuala or deep water soloing off the coast of Spain).
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:02 PM   #223
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Chris Sharma comes to my climbing gym from time to time

Where did you get King Lines? The most incredibly one I have probably seen was some chick (forgot name) on the Sharp End, free soloing a 5.15. Probably would have been like 2000 ft. Fataing crazy women.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:06 PM   #224
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The only way it makes sense is if you're taller and/or heavier than me. I feel pretty good on that amount of food. I have lots of energy and I'm only a little hungry.
I am a little taller and heavier (a towering 5'9" and ~177 lbs). As long as it's working for you and you are seeing results.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:09 PM   #225
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Everytime I see Chris Sharma climb I am absolutely amazed by his ability. Anyone that is interested in this kind of thing should check out the documentary "King Lines" for some amazing climbing and cinematography from all over the world (ie. bouldering on the top of Roraima in Venezuala or deep water soloing off the coast of Spain).
This is some pretty cool stuff. If only I had time for another hobby/sport! Ah well, perhaps my kids will get into it and then I will have an excuse!

Thanks for posting this!

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Old 07-24-2009, 07:13 PM   #226
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This is some pretty cool stuff. If only I had time for another hobby! Ah well, perhaps my kids will get into it and then I will have an excuse!

Thanks for posting this!
You should totally get your kids into it, I've seen little 9 year old girls that climb at my level, and I'm a 24 year old guy in pretty good shape. Besides the fact that kids are so light and indestructable, they lack the common sense of fear and try stuff that us grown ups think "geez I could really hurt myself on this"

Plus, with stuff like this, you can get into other really cool stuff quite easily. Spelunking is like childs play; I'm hoping to try something called canyoneering next week, sort of like spelunking except instead of going into a cave, you are going in/into a canyon.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:22 PM   #227
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You should totally get your kids into it, I've seen little 9 year old girls that climb at my level, and I'm a 24 year old guy in pretty good shape. Besides the fact that kids are so light and indestructable, they lack the common sense of fear and try stuff that us grown ups think "geez I could really hurt myself on this"

Plus, with stuff like this, you can get into other really cool stuff quite easily. Spelunking is like childs play; I'm hoping to try something called canyoneering next week, sort of like spelunking except instead of going into a cave, you are going in/into a canyon.
That's pretty cool! It is really amazing what kids can accomplish - and how quick they are to try again after failing at something.

I am going to have to google some of those terms as I am not familiar with them.

Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:26 PM   #228
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Chris Sharma comes to my climbing gym from time to time
I bow my head to you sir.

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Where did you get King Lines? The most incredibly one I have probably seen was some chick (forgot name) on the Sharp End, free soloing a 5.15. Probably would have been like 2000 ft. Fataing crazy women.
I saw it on the outdoor life network one day then I proceeded to . . .ummm. . . procure a copy from the internet. You can buy it from their website though.

I can hardly imagine free soloing a 5.15. I consider myself an alright climber but I'm only on the low end of 5.12 and boulder around V4/5. Some of the people out there are complete animals comparatively.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:30 PM   #229
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That's pretty cool! It is really amazing what kids can accomplish - and how quick they are to try again after failing at something.

I am going to have to google some of those terms as I am not familiar with them.

Thanks!
I saw a few people doing some climbing activities with their kids that I thought were pretty awesome. These kids were maybe 5-7 years old and the parents would suspend various toys and things from different holds up the wall. It was the kids jobs to "rescue" the toys and they were having a great time doing it!

I only started climbing when I was 24 or so and I could only imagine what it would've been like to start earlier. Damn you flat Saskatchewan!
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:36 PM   #230
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That's pretty cool! It is really amazing what kids can accomplish - and how quick they are to try again after failing at something.

I am going to have to google some of those terms as I am not familiar with them.

Thanks!
Climbing terms:

Top rope - rope goes around anchor, unless you are outside and can swing, virtually nothing can injure you.... I'd recommend this for kids



Bouldering - no rope, usually more technical and power, wall is usually 15 ft as Kybosh said. (see video).... I'd recommend this for kids...

Lead Climb - you can clip your rope into the wall/rock as you go (look where the rope is for this in the pic below)... I would NOT recommend this for kids, lot more safety stuff to consider (I lead climb about 3 levels lower then I top rope)... but you can do really cool stuff, like something called multi-pitch where you lead climb up a mountain about 8x's and you belay your partner off a cliff. Its really cool when when you just sit on a ledge and enjoy the view and think "how many people do I know that can do this?)



Repelling - how to lower your self down a wall / mountain. Nothing really challenging about this, but your arms do get a little tired after a while



Spelunking - cave diving I guess? I did this once or twice so I wouldn't call myself an expert, but I don't see anything particularly interesting or challenging about this other then you get to see really cool caves.



And what I hope to pick up next week - Canyoneering! Sort of like spelunking into a canyon I guess

MOD EDIT: Changed to link, some people got virus warnings with this image, but I couldn't see anything untoward:
http://puretrekcostarica.com/images/waterfall_6.gif
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:37 PM   #231
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I saw a few people doing some climbing activities with their kids that I thought were pretty awesome. These kids were maybe 5-7 years old and the parents would suspend various toys and things from different holds up the wall. It was the kids jobs to "rescue" the toys and they were having a great time doing it!

I only started climbing when I was 24 or so and I could only imagine what it would've been like to start earlier. Damn you flat Saskatchewan!
That's a great idea! My daughter is 5 right now and very active... I think I'll have to look into this a little more. I wish I was still in Calgary! Damn you flat Manitoba! LOL! I guess I'll have to settle for climbing gyms, or maybe build my own wall!

Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:32 PM   #232
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I saw it on the outdoor life network one day then I proceeded to . . .ummm. . . procure a copy from the internet. You can buy it from their website though.

I can hardly imagine free soloing a 5.15. I consider myself an alright climber but I'm only on the low end of 5.12 and boulder around V4/5. Some of the people out there are complete animals comparatively.
You're better than me, though I only started seriously climbing about a year ago. Before that, it was here and there, 5.8 or 5.9. I also notice Calgary/Edmonton walls seem to be more over hung and thus a little more brute strength then down in California, which is more balance, pinches or crimps and interesting moves. I'm told it has a lot to do with the area, as Canmore/Kananaskis/? versus Yosemite/Tahoe, High Sierras/Joshua Tree/Pinnicles.

My climbing routine goes something like:
Mostly 5.10b, 5.10c or 5.10d (or 5.10+ depending on your gyms ratings)... really depends on the wall and what time of route it is
Few 5.11's (usually project, I should really push myself to do them clean since I know I can do them clean in competitions)
did 40% bouldering today... V2

... and since I started reading this thread, I have one of those protein supplements after I finish to try and build muscle haha

But on lead, I'm 3 steps lower, so 5.9 or 5.10a... I'm sort of chicken pooh on lead.

which gym do you go to?
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:52 PM   #233
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You're better than me, though I only started seriously climbing about a year ago. Before that, it was here and there, 5.8 or 5.9. I also notice Calgary/Edmonton walls seem to be more over hung and thus a little more brute strength then down in California, which is more balance, pinches or crimps and interesting moves. I'm told it has a lot to do with the area, as Canmore/Kananaskis/? versus Yosemite/Tahoe, High Sierras/Joshua Tree/Pinnicles.

My climbing routine goes something like:
Mostly 5.10b, 5.10c or 5.10d (or 5.10+ depending on your gyms ratings)... really depends on the wall and what time of route it is
Few 5.11's (usually project, I should really push myself to do them clean since I know I can do them clean in competitions)
did 40% bouldering today... V2

... and since I started reading this thread, I have one of those protein supplements after I finish to try and build muscle haha

But on lead, I'm 3 steps lower, so 5.9 or 5.10a... I'm sort of chicken pooh on lead.

which gym do you go to?
Awesome about the bouldering. I just got some new shoes today to replace my thrashed pair and did a few V2-3 routes to break them in.

I'm at the university a lot so most of my climbing is at the bouldering wall there (where the routes are set by monsters) or the big wall. If it's nice out I also do some buildering on campus. If I feel like branching out I head to stronghold or the calgary climbing centre. After my defense, I'm going to be spending a lot more time in Canmore though.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:15 PM   #234
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If you are looking for shoe recommendations...

I really like the Mythos shoes, I've seen a lot of people using those and they're really popular, if you are looking for recommendations. Good balance between comfort and toe box, and a lot more comfortable on cracks then most. For a comfortable shoe, you can get a pretty good toe on a ledge and it feels really good to walk around on these or leave them on if you are doing multi-pitch.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524442533907 &FOLDER<>folder_id=2534374302690335&bmUID=12484912 88310

I just got a new pair of shoes ($20, it was closeout sort of deal, felt good at the time) and I would say, avoid these ones. (good thing they don't have it at MEC I guess)

http://www.rei.com/product/780110

I honestly hate them, it feels like a wooden shoe. I've been doing more 10b's then 10d's since I got this shoe just cause I can't get my foot on any sort of small feature, whereas I could on even the cheap evlov shoes (http://www.rei.com/product/751748)

PS : Is this the video you are talking about, the King Lines one? Man I want to go there
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXW5u0qFDr8

You must have to have balls of steel to dyno on lead though. I'd probably break an ankle trying to do that.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:35 PM   #235
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If you are looking for shoe recommendations...

I really like the Mythos shoes, I've seen a lot of people using those and they're really popular, if you are looking for recommendations. Good balance between comfort and toe box, and a lot more comfortable on cracks then most. For a comfortable shoe, you can get a pretty good toe on a ledge and it feels really good to walk around on these or leave them on if you are doing multi-pitch.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524442533907 &FOLDER<>folder_id=2534374302690335&bmUID=12484912 88310

I just got a new pair of shoes ($20, it was closeout sort of deal, felt good at the time) and I would say, avoid these ones. (good thing they don't have it at MEC I guess)

http://www.rei.com/product/780110

I honestly hate them, it feels like a wooden shoe. I've been doing more 10b's then 10d's since I got this shoe just cause I can't get my foot on any sort of small feature, whereas I could on even the cheap evlov shoes (http://www.rei.com/product/751748)

PS : Is this the video you are talking about, the King Lines one? Man I want to go there
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXW5u0qFDr8

You must have to have balls of steel to dyno on lead though. I'd probably break an ankle trying to do that.
Yeah, that's King Lines. It's an awesome film.

I also really like the mythos shoes but I find the toe isn't aggressive enough for my bouldering so I went with the slipper I linked. If I had more money I would've bought a pair of mythos as well just for those long days.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:49 PM   #236
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When we finish our defenses, you should fly down to CA and we'll trip over to Joshua Tree or Yosemite and you can do all those ones you see on the documentarys.

Hopefully by then, I should be working up to the 12's (and at least V4)
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:56 PM   #237
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Yeah, I've been doing the fitday thing for the last couple of days and it's broken down like this:

July 23

Calories 1,343
Fat 93.0 (g)
Carbohydrate 43.3 (g)
Dietary Fiber 14.5 (g)
Protein 91.7 (g)


July 22

Calories1,535
Fat 90.0 (g)
Carbohydrate 101.1 (g)
Dietary Fiber 13.9 (g)
Protein 87.2 (g)



I'd definitely want to increase my protein and fiber, but apparently fitday thinks around 1500-1600 calories/day is a good intake for me. I'm 22, have a desk job, and I can't get much excercise right now (medical reasons).
Im not telling you what to do by any means, but it seems upon first glance that your caloric intake isn't enough...unless you are trying to lose a bunch of weight.

Im 31 years old, female, 120 lbs, 5'8" and my intake according to both my trainer and my doctor should be in the 1800-2000 if I want to maintain my current weight and over 2000 if I want to gain muscle since muscle burns more calories than fat does. My goal is to gain muscle since my arms and legs are scrawny.

So of course you do whatever is right for you, but for some reason that seems really low. Also, I should add that even 1800 for me is sometimes hard to get to (depends on what Im eating). If Im having a junk food day then its very easy to get to but if I eat like a salad and fish and chicken and fruits/veggies all day, I have to add protein bars/drinks for the extra calories and protein. So you might feel like you are forcing yourself to eat a little more than you are used to, but for me, to gain muscle I need those extra calories. Or else I end up in a calorie deficit which is only good if I wanted to lose weight which I dont want to cuz its hard for me to gain weight, muscle or fat!

You should ask your doctor or dietitian what he/she thinks is a good amount for you...make sure to tell them if you
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:55 AM   #238
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Now I want to go climb.

Anyways, two things that should stand out in this thread. Climbing is fun, and if you can't gain weight drink gallon jugs of life giving cow fluid.

That ought to help you.
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:11 PM   #239
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On a day like today, rollerblading down at Eau Claire/Prince's Island Park is the answer.
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:07 PM   #240
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I'm starting to get into the weights thing again. I'm 6'2", 30 yo, and a year ago I quit smoking. After I quit smoking I ballooned from 177 to 206 lbs.

I've always been skinny as a rail, and could eat whatever I want, but now I've got a noticeable pot. Still fairly skinny everywhere else, but I really want to do something about that pot. At the same time, since I'm going to be working on my body shape, I was thinking of trying to build some sort of muscle definition.

So now I'm working on a 4 day split workout. But I haven't noticed a difference, and after reading all of this thread I'm figuring that has a lot to do with my diet.

I went to that fitday website and created my average daily consumption. I pick up 2400 calories, but only 120g of protein. I'm guessing that's why there's very little increase in muscle.

It was mentioned that carbs are the worst of the three macro-nutrients, and I have over 250g of carbs in those 2400 calories. So is that the problem? I have to cut down on carbs, while increasing proteins? I would've thought fat would be the problem. Should I look for foods that are both high in fat and protein? Eggs would be an example of that.

Also, what is the best way to build muscle? I do 3 sets of 12 reps for each exercise. I've heard that fewer reps and more weight is more effective for building muscle. Is this true?

Total noob questions here, but I'm hoping someone's got a few answers for me. It's extremely frustrating working so hard and seeing so little gain.
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