Watches you wear...

[pylon]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Is the SKX007 is that wildly inaccurate as it ages? I have the SKX009 and I don't recall ever seeing it that badly off before.

I've got a million-bajillion Seiko auto's. With the exception of my Spring Drive Tuna and my SLA021 Marinemaster which I wouldn't let anything but a professional touch, anything with the cheaper auto movements are super easy to regulate on your own if you watch a couple tutorials and have tools to open the watch. Anything with the 4R36 or similar movements are cheap enough to replace the movement it isn't a catastrophe if you break it. You can get them for around 50 bucks.

However, get a demagnetizer, and in most cases it will get you regulated within the specs of the watch. It usually only takes a couple passes through the field. I am finding more and more of my watches require demagnetization as we have so many things lying around now that emit a magnetic field. The ultimate irony being, the magnetic charger for my Apple watch, I know has thrown off a few of my watches as it is on my nightstand, where I place watches at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Demagnetizer-P...db0f447b28690e

However, if it's beyond that, and if you have to open the caseback, and use the regulator lever in the back of the movement, it's really hit or miss unless you have a timegrapher to see the result.

https://www.amazon.ca/LuckyHigh-Mult...s%2C134&sr=1-4

I have 50+ auto's, so it made sense to me to get one when they were a hundred bucks on a black Friday deal. But unless you have a large collection, I don't think it's worth the investment.

Edit for clarity:

When an automatic watch becomes magnetized, the balance spring ends up sticking to itself, and becomes erratic. So even regulating it with the lever on the movement, doesn't fix the erratic behaviour of the watch. So it's the point where you always want to start before you start adjusting anything else.

[Hack&Lube]

Originally Posted by pylon

I've got a million-bajillion Seiko auto's. With the exception of my Spring Drive Tuna and my SLA021 Marinemaster which I wouldn't let anything but a professional touch, anything with the cheaper auto movements are super easy to regulate on your own if you watch a couple tutorials and have tools to open the watch. Anything with the 4R36 or similar movements are cheap enough to replace the movement it isn't a catastrophe if you break it. You can get them for around 50 bucks.

However, get a demagnetizer, and in most cases it will get you regulated within the specs of the watch. It usually only takes a couple passes through the field. I am finding more and more of my watches require demagnetization as we have so many things lying around now that emit a magnetic field. The ultimate irony being, the magnetic charger for my Apple watch, I know has thrown off a few of my watches as it is on my nightstand, where I place watches at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Demagnetizer-P...db0f447b28690e

However, if it's beyond that, and if you have to open the caseback, and use the regulator lever in the back of the movement, it's really hit or miss unless you have a timegrapher to see the result.

https://www.amazon.ca/LuckyHigh-Mult...s%2C134&sr=1-4

I have 50+ auto's, so it made sense to me to get one when they were a hundred bucks on a black Friday deal. But unless you have a large collection, I don't think it's worth the investment.

Edit for clarity:

When an automatic watch becomes magnetized, the balance spring ends up sticking to itself, and becomes erratic. So even regulating it with the lever on the movement, doesn't fix the erratic behaviour of the watch. So it's the point where you always want to start before you start adjusting anything else.

I'm an amateur at this but I've timegraphed my SXK007 and the beat error is intense even after regulation. The graph is all over the place. It may be magnetized, the movement may need an ultrasonic bath like many of the restorers do. At this point, may be more cost effective to slip in a new movement that actually hacks like many SKX mods though.

[pylon]

Originally Posted by Hack&Lube

I'm an amateur at this but I've timegraphed my SXK007 and the beat error is intense even after regulation. The graph is all over the place. It may be magnetized, the movement may need an ultrasonic bath like many of the restorers do. At this point, may be more cost effective to slip in a new movement that actually hacks like many SKX mods though.

Honestly, for the 20 bucks a demagnetizer is, it's worth trying.

And yeah, I'm pretty sure that watch will even take an NH35 or NH36... can't remember which on is which as far as day/day-date is. They are like 20 bucks last I checked, and still made by Seiko. I robbed one once out of an Invicta I won to fix a dead Seiko auto my dad had.

[NuclearFart]

A couple of fun recent acquisitions to my collection!

[TorqueDog]

Love the Tudor!

[Leondros]

This watch puts the tool in tool watch:

[TorqueDog]

Finally some nice high res. photos of that thing!

[DoubleF]

Maybe I'm alone in this, but seeing a well worn, well loved watch is nicer than seeing pristine pics of a watch.

Thanks for sharing.

[Winsor_Pilates]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Maybe I'm alone in this, but seeing a well worn, well loved watch is nicer than seeing pristine pics of a watch.

Thanks for sharing.

You're not alone.
A lot of watch enthusiasts hate it when an old watch is polished and cleaned up.
It can actually decrease the value on vintage pieces.

[NuclearFart]

Part me of dies inside seeing those older Daytona case & lugs looking like a bar of soap from countless overpolishings.

[Table 5]

I just came back from Tokyo, and man is that place ever a watch lover's dream. Not only do you see really tasteful watches on the wrists of people in the metro, there's an abundance of great watch stores everywhere. If you're ever in Tokyo and want to spend your kids college fund, go to Nakano Broadway for an afternoon. The amount of stock and options are staggering. While I wouldn't say you get killer deals, just being able to see everything in person makes a huge difference.

I went to Tokyo hoping that I may pick up a JDM Seiko, or perhaps even a Grand Seiko, but funnily enough I ended up impulse buying a vintage 1978 Rolex Oysterdate 6694 with a nice silver dial. I know most people are into the Subs and Daytonas (and I mean I am too), but there's just something I've always loved about these cleaner Oysters with stick markers, smooth bezels, and warm silver dials.





It's my first significant watch purchase since I bought my Speedy a decade+ ago. Of course after seeing so many cool watches in person, especially on the vintage side, I now have about 10 other things I want to get.

[Winsor_Pilates]

That is beautiful and classy AF.
Well done! The tone on that dial is so interesting yet subtle.

I have never been to Japan and also have a plan to eventually pick up a GS when I do go.

[Table 5]

Originally Posted by Winsor_Pilates

I have never been to Japan and also have a plan to eventually pick up a GS when I do go.

Oddly enough the flagship GS boutique was the one place that was a bit underwhelming. Just nothing really stood out. Same with the Seiko House next door.

I did see some beautiful vintage Grand Seikos/King Seikos in other watch stores, but by that time I had already bought the OP, so it was merely a scouting mission for the future.

[lazypucker]

Did you get dinged at the customs for taxes? If so, how much customs and duties were being charged?

The taxes that the customs collect is one of the reasons why I am hesitant to buy watches overseas...

[TorqueDog]

Originally Posted by lazypucker

Did you get dinged at the customs for taxes? If so, how much customs and duties were being charged?

The taxes that the customs collect is one of the reasons why I am hesitant to buy watches overseas...

For Albertans, duty is 5% on the sale price of the watch, and tax is 5% on the total (watch + 5% duty).

https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-v...t-cal-eng.html

So a $4,000 CAD watch will be $200 in duty and $210 in taxes. For the right deal, it's still likely to be cheaper than buying domestically.

[Table 5]

I just had to pay 5% (not 10% as the link above implies). While it's never fun to pay taxes, relatively speaking, it wasn't outrageous. There is an $800 exemption per person if you stay longer than 7 days, and you pay the duty on anything above that. Although it seems to be a bit at the discretion of the customs officer as he knocked a few things off of our total.

In Japan, as a tourist you can buy tax-free goods at a lot of places when you show your passport, which does save you from having to pay their local VAT type tax (which I think is 10%). Im not sure though if this counts when you're having goods shipped (perhaps some of the people who have done it can clarify).

You could of course always try to pay cash and sneak it through, but that has it's own potential consequences.

[Twitchy15]

2262.50

picture did not work.. but was looking to buy a watch for awhile but wanted smaller and not to thick decided on a omega midsize 2262.50. similar to the 2254.50 above "peter blake"

[bluejays]

Bumping this. I've always appreciated watches, but never thought I'd delve into a $1000. But here we are. A few of my friends were talking about watches they own and among the ones they recommended for about the $800 mark for automatics was the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80. I do like the look of it. I have a relatively thin wrist so this doesn't look gaudy on me when I tried it in store. While I don't have kids, I'd like to pass it along to the next generation when eventually does happen.


All this being said, is this a good sub $1000 watch? I want something that will last a long time that I can pass on. Right now calling an official Tissot retailer here they said $780 if paid by debit. I just want something classy and timeless.

[TorqueDog]

I think it's a great choice. Which size and dial did you pick? Assuming you're picking the bracelet version and not strap (you can always buy a strap later if you need).

[bluejays]

Originally Posted by TorqueDog

I think it's a great choice. Which size and dial did you pick? Assuming you're picking the bracelet version and not strap (you can always buy a strap later if you need).

Thanks. 2024 was a tough year for me and I’m just trying to get a new start and something I can pass along that is quality. I’m still deciding the colour between these if I go with this model.

https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-ca/T1374071135100.html
https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-ca/T1374071135101.html
https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-ca/T1374071109101.html

I do like the gradient one (the middle link). The last one pops but I’m not sure it’s for me.