Watches you wear...

[pylon]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Is the SKX007 is that wildly inaccurate as it ages? I have the SKX009 and I don't recall ever seeing it that badly off before.

I've got a million-bajillion Seiko auto's. With the exception of my Spring Drive Tuna and my SLA021 Marinemaster which I wouldn't let anything but a professional touch, anything with the cheaper auto movements are super easy to regulate on your own if you watch a couple tutorials and have tools to open the watch. Anything with the 4R36 or similar movements are cheap enough to replace the movement it isn't a catastrophe if you break it. You can get them for around 50 bucks.

However, get a demagnetizer, and in most cases it will get you regulated within the specs of the watch. It usually only takes a couple passes through the field. I am finding more and more of my watches require demagnetization as we have so many things lying around now that emit a magnetic field. The ultimate irony being, the magnetic charger for my Apple watch, I know has thrown off a few of my watches as it is on my nightstand, where I place watches at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Demagnetizer-P...db0f447b28690e

However, if it's beyond that, and if you have to open the caseback, and use the regulator lever in the back of the movement, it's really hit or miss unless you have a timegrapher to see the result.

https://www.amazon.ca/LuckyHigh-Mult...s%2C134&sr=1-4

I have 50+ auto's, so it made sense to me to get one when they were a hundred bucks on a black Friday deal. But unless you have a large collection, I don't think it's worth the investment.

Edit for clarity:

When an automatic watch becomes magnetized, the balance spring ends up sticking to itself, and becomes erratic. So even regulating it with the lever on the movement, doesn't fix the erratic behaviour of the watch. So it's the point where you always want to start before you start adjusting anything else.

[Hack&Lube]

Originally Posted by pylon

I've got a million-bajillion Seiko auto's. With the exception of my Spring Drive Tuna and my SLA021 Marinemaster which I wouldn't let anything but a professional touch, anything with the cheaper auto movements are super easy to regulate on your own if you watch a couple tutorials and have tools to open the watch. Anything with the 4R36 or similar movements are cheap enough to replace the movement it isn't a catastrophe if you break it. You can get them for around 50 bucks.

However, get a demagnetizer, and in most cases it will get you regulated within the specs of the watch. It usually only takes a couple passes through the field. I am finding more and more of my watches require demagnetization as we have so many things lying around now that emit a magnetic field. The ultimate irony being, the magnetic charger for my Apple watch, I know has thrown off a few of my watches as it is on my nightstand, where I place watches at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Demagnetizer-P...db0f447b28690e

However, if it's beyond that, and if you have to open the caseback, and use the regulator lever in the back of the movement, it's really hit or miss unless you have a timegrapher to see the result.

https://www.amazon.ca/LuckyHigh-Mult...s%2C134&sr=1-4

I have 50+ auto's, so it made sense to me to get one when they were a hundred bucks on a black Friday deal. But unless you have a large collection, I don't think it's worth the investment.

Edit for clarity:

When an automatic watch becomes magnetized, the balance spring ends up sticking to itself, and becomes erratic. So even regulating it with the lever on the movement, doesn't fix the erratic behaviour of the watch. So it's the point where you always want to start before you start adjusting anything else.

I'm an amateur at this but I've timegraphed my SXK007 and the beat error is intense even after regulation. The graph is all over the place. It may be magnetized, the movement may need an ultrasonic bath like many of the restorers do. At this point, may be more cost effective to slip in a new movement that actually hacks like many SKX mods though.

[pylon]

Originally Posted by Hack&Lube

I'm an amateur at this but I've timegraphed my SXK007 and the beat error is intense even after regulation. The graph is all over the place. It may be magnetized, the movement may need an ultrasonic bath like many of the restorers do. At this point, may be more cost effective to slip in a new movement that actually hacks like many SKX mods though.

Honestly, for the 20 bucks a demagnetizer is, it's worth trying.

And yeah, I'm pretty sure that watch will even take an NH35 or NH36... can't remember which on is which as far as day/day-date is. They are like 20 bucks last I checked, and still made by Seiko. I robbed one once out of an Invicta I won to fix a dead Seiko auto my dad had.

[NuclearFart]

A couple of fun recent acquisitions to my collection!

[TorqueDog]

Love the Tudor!

[Leondros]

This watch puts the tool in tool watch:

[TorqueDog]

Finally some nice high res. photos of that thing!

[DoubleF]

Maybe I'm alone in this, but seeing a well worn, well loved watch is nicer than seeing pristine pics of a watch.

Thanks for sharing.

[Winsor_Pilates]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Maybe I'm alone in this, but seeing a well worn, well loved watch is nicer than seeing pristine pics of a watch.

Thanks for sharing.

You're not alone.
A lot of watch enthusiasts hate it when an old watch is polished and cleaned up.
It can actually decrease the value on vintage pieces.

[NuclearFart]

Part me of dies inside seeing those older Daytona case & lugs looking like a bar of soap from countless overpolishings.