Ongoing General Automotive Thread 2.0

[woob]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

IMO, the best road for this is Chain Lakes road from Nanton across to the 22.

Lots of curves and hills, very little traffic, and more importantly tons and tons of visibility so you can have fun safely. Cops/animals and other traffic can be seen from a huge distance on that road because it's not forested. One of my absolute favourite roads, and I will always choose this route on the way to Highway 3.

Yeah, thats a great road.

Originally Posted by undercoverbrother

I wish more car makers made wagons.

Saaaaame. I love my VW and wish I could buy a newer version of it. Or an R model of it.

[woob]

Originally Posted by TorqueDog

Don't know what vehicle woob's got, but just make sure if you're going to size down that your model/trim can fit a smaller wheel over the brakes. If they didn't offer a factory wheel in that reduced size, check around and get confirmation that you can run a 17".

Confirmed I cannot run 17s due to callipers, so thank you for that TD.

Research was humorous. Came across one guy who made the mistake and asked if he could just grind down the callipers. Of course he got lit up in the responses.

[Bill Bumface]

I need a starter. On the car in question, it's 1 hour of labour. After suffering through a starter job that was 8 hours of book time myself (I choose not to admit how long it took me), I was thinking at that amount of labour it's worth it to take a flyer on an aftermarket starter instead of OEM. Am I dumb?

[TorqueDog]

Woob, sometimes you can swing it with wheel spacers depending on where the wheel and caliper are contacting, but yeah, you're better off sticking with a wheel that fits without them.

[bigrangy]

Originally Posted by speede5

Hopefully not the actuator, but it sure sounds like it is something in the cam timing. There is one on each side, under the valve /cam cover, and they are expensive. I'm fixing up a Boxster right now and the one side actuators cable was severed right at the solenoid so I have no choice but to replace it. Haven't found one less than 1K. I'm taking one from a parts engine and hoping it is good. Also they are position specific L/R. Coils would be easy to diagnose, swap some from left to right and see if the problem migrates but since they are coil on it would be odd for a whole side to go. Same for injectors.

Also I was thinking of the solenoid not the actuator, but either is a significant issue.

Update:

The solution to the problem ended up being ignore it for 3 weeks, then try just letting it idle again.

I’n thinking maybe resetting the codes also reset the throttle mapping so it just needed some time to re-learn. I started it for the first time in a couple weeks today and it was idling like before, but then I let it just idle poorly for a few minutes and then it seemed to clear up a bit for a short time, then went back to a poor idle, then went back to good, and then i gave it a bit of throttle and it bogged down again. So i waited some more until the idle was good then I gave it some throttle and it rev’d to 2k before bogging. Then i let it recover again, then throttle to 3k, then bog, let it recover then 4k, then bog, let it recover and now it’s got full throttle range (at least to 5 or 6 k haha, not gonna redline it in the driveway it the middle of the neighborhood. ) Took it for a drive and it’s running like normal, which isn’t necessarily good but at least it’s driveable.

It’s overspeeding when the auto is trying to shift up from 2 to 3 so if I have the throttle hammered it’ll give a big clunk when it finally drops into 3 which I am sure is not appreciated by the internals. So just have to be a bit delicate.

[curves2000]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

I need a starter. On the car in question, it's 1 hour of labour. After suffering through a starter job that was 8 hours of book time myself (I choose not to admit how long it took me), I was thinking at that amount of labour it's worth it to take a flyer on an aftermarket starter instead of OEM. Am I dumb?

Compare OEM to aftermarket, if it's pretty close in cost, I would go with OEM. If OEM is stupid expensive and your saving hundreds of dollars, would a new OEM one really last 2,3,4/10 x as long as an aftermarket? That is the way I look at it. Knock on wood, I don't think I have ever changed a starter on any of the dozens of cars I have had so they last.

[cam_wmh]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

IMO, the best road for this is Chain Lakes road from Nanton across to the 22.

Lots of curves and hills, very little traffic, and more importantly tons and tons of visibility so you can have fun safely. Cops/animals and other traffic can be seen from a huge distance on that road because it's not forested. One of my absolute favourite roads, and I will always choose this route on the way to Highway 3.

No it's not, that road sucks. It's interrupted by a stop sign, that slows everything to a painful crawl. Nothing anybody should have to partake in.

Highway 540, that's where you wanna go. It's mostly straight, predictable and safe.

Or for you crazy risk takers, another easy one to remember is 520. Make you think you're a Duke boy, racing through hazard county on that dirt road.

Or slip through Okotoks for a Costco run, and jump on the ol Coal Road to Longview.

But yeah, Chane River road, or whatever you call it. Yeah, don't take that one, it has poor cell service too I bet.

[cam_wmh]

ACTUALLY, what you should do, is just take 2 all the way to Fort Mcleod, and enjoy the faster 110 speed limit for those extra 80 clicks. Plus, have YOU BEEN to Ft Mcleod? That place rules.

There, gave you all tons of options.

[cam_wmh]

Originally Posted by woob

Yeah, thats a great road

Saaaaame. I love my VW and wish I could buy a newer version of it. Or an R model of it.

VW's are terrible on that road. Especially the R model. The road you're looking for is 543. It's linear, and has lots of woopy hills. Lil stomach droppers.

WAY MORE FUN.