Building a Garage- some input please [MRG] - Page 2 - Calgarypuck Forums - The Unofficial Calgary Flames Fan Community

Moderator · 05-14-2007, 11:59 AM

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ken0042 · 05-14-2007, 12:14 PM

Shane, there is really no "standard" size, but 20X20 is the minimum for most people to consider it a 2 car garage, and I wouldn't do less than 22X22 myself. Keep in mind square footage; 22X22 is 20% larger than 20X20.

For concrete, I'm likely getting the guy who did my neighbour's pad. I say likely because he seems a little shifty, but I really liked the work he did for my neighbour as a sub-contactor, and his price is reasonable.

Permit price- the garage permit will likely be around $150, and then another $60 for the electrical.

Tron_fdc · 05-14-2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken0042

For concrete, I'm likely getting the guy who did my neighbour's pad. I say likely because he seems a little shifty, but I really liked the work he did for my neighbour as a sub-contactor, and his price is reasonable.

Ha ha ain't that the truth. The low down I got on the siding guy I'm using is "he's a bit of a crack head but he does good work, and he's cheap".

Sweet, as long as he doesn't steal my paint or household chemicals I'm all good.....

Man, it's tough to get cheap workers these days, isn't it? It'll cost you double if you can't do the work yourself.

ken0042 · 05-14-2007, 02:26 PM

Yeah, the big thing for the concrete is that I'm making sure he's responsible for ordering everything. A friend wanted me to use a guy who would do the finishing for $100, but to me that sounded too cheap; and the last thing I needed was for the concrete truck to show up and nobody there to finish it. At least with the siding if he doesn't show up for a week then it can wait.

What impressed me with my neighbour's pad was the way he did the expansion joints. From my yard I couldn't see them; it wasn't until I got close up that I could see how he masked them; which menas I don't have joints that will fill up with water and dirt.

Tron_fdc · 05-14-2007, 04:23 PM

So does anyone know where I can get cheap silver doorknobs???? Totem sells em for $18 EACH, and no way in fark am I going to shell that out for all the doors in my place.

ken0042 · 05-25-2007, 03:03 PM

Well, the concrete for the garage floor has been poured, and the garage package is set to come next week. However this brings me to another question for those of you who have done this before....

I'm thinking of painting the garage floor. Why? So that eventually when oil ends up getting spilled on the floor it's easier to clean it up. Any suggestions? Stuff to use, or stuff to avoid.

Thanks again guys!

Dion · 05-25-2007, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken0042

Well, the concrete for the garage floor has been poured, and the garage package is set to come next week. However this brings me to another question for those of you who have done this before....

I'm thinking of painting the garage floor. Why? So that eventually when oil ends up getting spilled on the floor it's easier to clean it up. Any suggestions? Stuff to use, or stuff to avoid.

Thanks again guys!

Don't use paint as it will crack and peel. A neighbour used that method and had to scrape the paint off this past spring.

I would go with a clear concrete sealer - similar to what they used in the concourse of the Saddledome.. Sorry don't have any product names for you.

Tron_fdc · 05-25-2007, 03:10 PM

I'm building mine tomorrow Ken....just got my package. I'll let you know how it goes, and try to pass on anything I notice.

Dion · 05-25-2007, 03:11 PM

This product might do the trick.

http://www.seal-krete.com/

pope04 · 10-16-2007, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stranger

- If you are looking to insulate the garage, blow in an extra R20 into the ceiling and make it R60 instead of R40. You'll have less heat loss that way.

Sorry to resuscitate such an old thread, but I dug it up now because I'm presently finishing my garage. I've insulated, vapour barriered and sheeted my walls, and now I'm pondering the ceiling. What's the best way to insulate it? I'm going to heat it, so is it worth it in the long run to go R-60 or will R-40 suffice? Should I cross-fur the insulation to get maximum R value, blow in or a combination of the two?

Thanks.

ken0042 · 10-16-2007, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pope04

.....I'm going to heat it..........

I just finished insulating mine. However I think to determine what you need; you may need to qualify that statement. Are you going to heat it and keep it at a certain temp all winter long, or are you going to heat it once a month when you work on the car? Or, are you wanting heat so that when it drops down to -30 outside, you can keep it +5 in the garage?

I can't tell you from personal experience until the spring, but I went with just R22 Roxul in the ceiling. My neighbour has the same size garage as me, and he has R20 all around. Last winter I was in his garage when it was -20 out, and without heat it had to be about 0 in there.

One other thing to keep in mind, I found there's quite a difference in the temperature at the ceiling in the garage than on the floor. (I have 10 foot ceilings.) So I think I might buy a cheap ceiling fan to help circulate the air.

Burninator · 10-16-2007, 03:43 PM

Ken any reason you went with Roxul?

ken0042 · 10-16-2007, 03:51 PM

Brainwashing by Mike Holmes?

A few things.
-Easier to work with- ie me by myself on a ladder putting this stuff into the rafters from below. Plus it is rigid enough to stay up there until I get motivation to put up vapour barrier.
- 10% better insulation per inch. R22 instead of R20.
- Fire rating. I forget the numbers, but Fiberglass melts at like 1000 degrees F, and Roxul at about 2500 F.
- Cost was similar; maybe 10% more for Roxul- which is made up in the extra insulation factor.

That being said, I went with R20 fibreglass for the walls. A very kind poster replied to my "Insulation wanted" thread, and I was able to trade Flames tickets for insulation.

At the cheaper price I really couldn't turn it down.

Burninator · 10-16-2007, 04:17 PM

Ah, I was just curious as to why you used a fire rated insulation, as most people don't use it on their homes. But 10% more isn't that bad. Also, no vapour barrier?

lol. I may be a little bias because I work in the design side of the industry, but it's pretty much the most important part of the assembly, technically speaking. But without being too much like the annoying know it all neighbour I'll just carry on minding my own business.

ken0042 · 10-16-2007, 04:27 PM

The vapour barrier is bought and paid for; it's just me needing to go and put it up. The insulation has only been in place for a week- so on the list of my procrastination it's really not that bad.

pope04 · 10-17-2007, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken0042

However I think to determine what you need; you may need to qualify that statement. Are you going to heat it and keep it at a certain temp all winter long, or are you going to heat it once a month when you work on the car? Or, are you wanting heat so that when it drops down to -30 outside, you can keep it +5 in the garage?

Thanks, Ken. As for how I'm going to heat it, I'm not sure. I've got a skookum hanging Reznor installed in the garage now, and my current vision is just firing it up when it's cold or when I'm working in the garage. Of course, things change and I may wish to keep the garage above freezing all winter long. I think I may buy the Roxul stuff and overlap it for an R-44 rating.

ken0042 · 10-23-2007, 09:58 PM

Well, I figured it fitting that my first official post on CP from the garage be in this thread.

And I suppose that makes me officially a geek; having internet hard wired into the garage.

redforever · 10-23-2007, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken0042

Well, the concrete for the garage floor has been poured, and the garage package is set to come next week. However this brings me to another question for those of you who have done this before....

I'm thinking of painting the garage floor. Why? So that eventually when oil ends up getting spilled on the floor it's easier to clean it up. Any suggestions? Stuff to use, or stuff to avoid.

Thanks again guys!

Yeah, we got some stuff from Totem, it gets painted on. We never did this initially when we built the house with attached garage so had quite a bit more prep work. We had to do an acid wash etc to get rid of any dirt etc. Anyhow, since your garage will be brand new, you can put it directly on your fresh surface of dried cement. The floor did have to be completely dry and clean. I forget the name of the product, but it was from Totem. It was some industrial stuff, so if you drive in the garage and the tires on your vehicle are hot, it wont adhere to them. Totem will know what it is, it is in the paint section. We had a painter do it as we were having other exterior work done and he had used the product before. More than one brand name of this product but it was recommended by us to go with the Totem product.