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Old 04-10-2012, 06:27 PM   #1
Brotato
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Hi CP,

Our homebuilder gave us probably 4" of topsoil (if that). My grass has been pretty sickly the past handful of years (not very thick but even coverage, like a 40 year old's dome).

I applied some fertilizer last year, but that didn't help. I am thinking I need to add some top soil in the next few weeks. Any suggestions for Calgary-specific grass thickening? Lots of sun on these areas, just can't get it to thicken up!
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:31 PM   #2
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Anyone know how to get rid of quack grass??


It's totally pissing me off.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:36 PM   #3
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4" of topsoil seems like plenty; my builder didn't provide any, so we sowed the seed in the dirt, and (with work) has grown into a nice thick healthy lawn

I would rent a slit seeder and overseed the lawn; its very easy to do
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brotato View Post
Hi CP,

Our homebuilder gave us probably 4" of topsoil (if that). My grass has been pretty sickly the past handful of years (not very thick but even coverage, like a 40 year old's dome).

I applied some fertilizer last year, but that didn't help. I am thinking I need to add some top soil in the next few weeks. Any suggestions for Calgary-specific grass thickening? Lots of sun on these areas, just can't get it to thicken up!
Hmmmm....

I can't offer alot of advice without pictures, but if you do replace/add top soil make sure to add some manure to it. You'll thank me later.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:53 PM   #5
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I found a huge difference between my diy fertilizer and having someone do it. No idea why but clearly they did it better.


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4" of topsoil seems like plenty; my builder didn't provide any, so we sowed the seed in the dirt, and (with work) has grown into a nice thick healthy lawn

I would rent a slit seeder and overseed the lawn; its very easy to do
C'mon. A slit seeder? Thats not real and no way I'm searching it on a work computer.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bend it like Bourgeois View Post
I found a huge difference between my diy fertilizer and having someone do it. No idea why but clearly they did it better.




C'mon. A slit seeder? Thats not real and no way I'm searching it on a work computer.

http://www.nutrilawn.com/Your-Lawn/s...ding/3709.html

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An Excellent Way to Introduce New Robust Cultivars of Grass to Your Lawn!

Slit-seeding is accomplished with a machine that slices rows into your lawn and drops seed into the slits. The knives are designed to slice into the lawn rather than rip out thatch. This reduces the damage to the lawn, leaving the lawn relatively undamaged. There is still a small amount of thatch kicked up, but it is minimal compared to what a dethatcher creates.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:24 PM   #7
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You need to aerate - most new lawns in new areas need it done in the first two years. I put my sod down 4 years ago and have aerated twice, it's amazing how much it helps your lawn.

http://www.weedmancanada.com/

Just get on their plan - I used to fertilize myself as well, but signed up for Weedman all last year and my lawn has never looked better.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey_the_redneck View Post
Anyone know how to get rid of quack grass??


It's totally pissing me off.
Quack grass grows much quicker than regular grass so what I do is let it grow out a little and take some roundup in a small container, take a paintbrush (I find the little foam ones work the best) and paint it onto the quack grass blades.

You'll look like an idiot doing it but it works really well.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:23 AM   #9
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I've contacted Weedman and Nutri-Lawn to have some pros come look at my grass. At least get an opinion on what needs to be done, as I don't have a tonne of spare time so using a pro might be a good idea.

Madman: Any comment on the costlyness of Weedman?

Anyone else use Nutri-lawn or Weedman's refresh/rejuvenation programs?
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:40 AM   #10
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I heard somewhere aerating a new lawn (put in last summer) the following spring isn't a good idea; that I should do it next spring instead.

Anyone have any insight into that? Just give it some fertilizer as it starts warming up here & keep it well watered?
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brotato View Post
I've contacted Weedman and Nutri-Lawn to have some pros come look at my grass. At least get an opinion on what needs to be done, as I don't have a tonne of spare time so using a pro might be a good idea.

Madman: Any comment on the costlyness of Weedman?

Anyone else use Nutri-lawn or Weedman's refresh/rejuvenation programs?
I pay around $220 per year for their fertilizer and weed control package.

Aeration was $70 I think?
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
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I heard somewhere aerating a new lawn (put in last summer) the following spring isn't a good idea; that I should do it next spring instead.

Anyone have any insight into that? Just give it some fertilizer as it starts warming up here & keep it well watered?
I've never heard about that, you should probably call a professional service and see what their advice is. I know most people get 1 solid year from their newly laid sod in new neighborhoods, and then it takes a turn for the worse the second year - this is because of the amount of topsoil used and the conditions of the soil the topsoil is put over.

Aeration should really be done in the fall, not the spring. Doing it in the fall ensures the coring gets as deep as possible and allows water to get where it needs to be. While doing it in spring isn't a waste, the ground is still cool and will not core as deep as a nice warm and moist fall soil bed.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:37 AM   #13
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i had managed to thatch, cut and rake my lawn before last weeks snowfall, and so far i am dissapointed as i was expecting it to start to green up after last week - maybe the rain over the next few days and some sun and warm temps will jump start it.....
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:39 AM   #14
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How do you thatch your lawn? do you mean dethatch?
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:45 AM   #15
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How do you thatch your lawn? do you mean dethatch?
De-thatch.

Some folks rent a power raking machine that rips all the dead material out of your lawn. It's like raking on steroids.

Info. on dethatching;

http://www.nutrilawn.com/Your-Lawn/d...aking/641.html

Last edited by mikey_the_redneck; 04-11-2012 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #16
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De-thatch.

Some folks rent a power raking machine that rips all the dead material out of your lawn. It's like raking on steroids.
It's also not worth the time or money and is actually not that good for your lawn.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:50 AM   #17
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Does anyone know any good aeration guys? I think I will try this year aerating early, and then over-seeding and then dropping some starter fertilizer down.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:51 AM   #18
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It's also not worth the time or money and is actually not that good for your lawn.
I partially agree.

I think it is wise not to de-thatch every year, as it is a harsh treatment.

Last time I rented a power raker, I think it was set a bit too low and it thinned my lawn out a little too much. It was cheap to rent though.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon View Post
I heard somewhere aerating a new lawn (put in last summer) the following spring isn't a good idea; that I should do it next spring instead.

Anyone have any insight into that? Just give it some fertilizer as it starts warming up here & keep it well watered?
Aerating is generally used when the soil has been compacted so much that it's more difficult for water, nutrients and air to reach the roots. A new lawn shouldnt need it as the root system is still developing, grass doesnt take long to root but the overall root depth wouldnt be that great at this time.

Personally I would hold off for another year and continue on a fertilizing schedule, I usually do about every month and a half to 2 months
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:54 AM   #20
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I partially agree.

I think it is wise not to de-thatch every year, as it is a harsh treatment.

Last time I rented a power raker, I think it was set a bit too low and it thinned my lawn out a little too much. It was cheap to rent though.
If you bag your grass you really dont need to power rake but if you mulch you should.
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