Trip Report on rock climbing fall

[Phanuthier]

Really cool read on a friend of a friend of mine who took a whipper fall last week on a 400-ft climbing route in Tahoe, California. I did this route (Bears Reach) last year, scary as hell... really committing route.

http://tantrikclimber.blogspot.com/

small preview:

I stalled, debating what to do. And that's the last thing I remember.

Because the next second I was off. I recollect it as a very 'pure' fall where I had no moment to think or prepare. I launched off the wall and was spinning and tumbling. I remember hitting the rock a few times and screaming (Steve confirms). I kept on falling and wildly thought "why the hell do I not stop?"

At this point in the fall, he would have been half way up the 3rd pitch, so probably 350-ft up is where he took the fall?

[DropIt]

Sounds embarrasing.

[GoinAllTheWay]

No helmet? Man is he lucky....

[Phanuthier]

Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay

No helmet? Man is he lucky....

He had a helmet, he said it saved his life. He's normally a way stronger climber than 5.7, but the following factors seem to contribute to this disaster:

- trying to "beat the weather" - I did that last year, I almost got hit by lightning
- weather again - cold hands, especially when you are trying to deadpoint a hold
- no headlamp - WTF?! big mistake there, esp if you are starting at 3pm
- not enough gear... though I remember this route had really bad placements

None the less, I thought this was a really good read. Very articulate on details. Writes like a movie.

[worth]

I'll stick to scrambles I think.

[Phanuthier]

Originally Posted by worth

I'll stick to scrambles I think.

I think all those issues (minus the cold hands) would hurt a non-technical mountaineer too (no headlamp, weather, etc... which was of course, preventable).

(see: Johnny Copp and Micah Dash)

[worth]

Yes, they would. It's just something about actual rock climbing that freaks me out. Maybe in time I will try it.

But yes, preventative measures no matter what you are doing are always a good call.

Had to descend from a scramble this weekend pretty fast because of bad weather coming in.

[Phanuthier]

Originally Posted by worth

Yes, they would. It's just something about actual rock climbing that freaks me out. Maybe in time I will try it.

But yes, preventative measures no matter what you are doing are always a good call.

Had to descend from a scramble this weekend pretty fast because of bad weather coming in.

I'm the opposite. Technical skills, I'm confident about. External factors like environment (weather, falling rocks, trying to beat the sunset) scares me the most.