I noticed that our main floor is about 3-5degrees Celsius warmer than upstairs - so in order to get a comfortable temp upstairs, we have to increase the temp downstairs.
I checked to be sure all the upstairs vents were open, but that didn't help - is there something that can be done to better balance the temperature between levels?
I am debating a red neck solution of just closing a few vents downstairs, in the hopes that the increased pressure goes upstairs, but I was wondering if there is a service (everlast?!) that can balance the temp?
I noticed that our main floor is about 3-5degrees Celsius warmer than upstairs - so in order to get a comfortable temp upstairs, we have to increase the temp downstairs.
I checked to be sure all the upstairs vents were open, but that didn't help - is there something that can be done to better balance the temperature between levels?
I am debating a red neck solution of just closing a few vents downstairs, in the hopes that the increased pressure goes upstairs, but I was wondering if there is a service (everlast?!) that can balance the temp?
That is what we do at our house. But our upstairs is warmer than the lower levels so we close vents on the upper floor. Reverse in the Summer when using our A/C.
I have the exact same problem. Let me know if you find out anything interesting. I went full on red neck and taped a bunch of vents off in the basement where it is always roasting (and undeveloped).
Closing the vents doesn't do too much in reducing the pressure. If you really want to lower the amount of air going to your downstairs you need to install something much closer to the furnace.
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I am a professional HVAC installer and I have a few things you can try to help your situation.....
Closing the dampers in your floor registers is one good way to even up the temperature, open up where its cold, close down where its warm. Another way is to run your furnace fan 24/7, if you have a newer type furnace you wont even notice any energy consumption increases on your bill. I have owned my house for 6 years and the fan has never shut off. The third thing you need to look at is where you are losing heat in the cold areas of your house. Have a look at your blinds/curtains, keep them closed, check for drafts coming out of the wall/windows ect.
Hope this helps!
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I'd close off some of the vents on the main floor not only to increase upstairs pressure, but to decrease the temperature on the main floor. Instead of trying to make the upstairs hotter, you're effectively making the main floor cooler (ipso facto).
I have a similar issue in an older duplex- I used to live with my gf and roommate, but she left me so now it's just me on the upper level and no-one in the basement.
Do those magnetic covers you can find at Canadian Tire work, or should I just tape the downstairs vents? This will allow for more efficient heating of upstairs, as well as no heating downstairs where the only thing there is random crap and a laundry machine and dryer. At least that's what I'm hoping for.
Question: if I tape off the vents, what kind of tape to use? I don't want anything permanently sticking with all the heat, so I assume duct tape is out. Is masking tape the way to go here?
I am a professional HVAC installer and I have a few things you can try to help your situation.....
Closing the dampers in your floor registers is one good way to even up the temperature, open up where its cold, close down where its warm. Another way is to run your furnace fan 24/7, if you have a newer type furnace you wont even notice any energy consumption increases on your bill. I have owned my house for 6 years and the fan has never shut off. The third thing you need to look at is where you are losing heat in the cold areas of your house. Have a look at your blinds/curtains, keep them closed, check for drafts coming out of the wall/windows ect.
Hope this helps!
We used to have a huge difference between our main floor and downstairs (~5 degrees cooler downstairs), until we recently installed a high efficiency furnace (our old one was ~40 years old). The furnace is a two-stage model, which means that there is a fan running about 80% of the time, and its made a huge difference in the temperature balance. So I second the fan advice, if you have a newer furnace which runs the fan on low power.
As a comparison, we had tried adjusting the heat registers etc (not aggressively with tape mind you) but it didn't do much.
I am debating a red neck solution of just closing a few vents downstairs, in the hopes that the increased pressure goes upstairs, but I was wondering if there is a service (everlast?!) that can balance the temp?
Redneck? That's not Redneck, that's just common sense.
We used to have a huge difference between our main floor and downstairs (~5 degrees cooler downstairs), until we recently installed a high efficiency furnace (our old one was ~40 years old). The furnace is a two-stage model, which means that there is a fan running about 80% of the time, and its made a huge difference in the temperature balance. So I second the fan advice, if you have a newer furnace which runs the fan on low power.
As a comparison, we had tried adjusting the heat registers etc (not aggressively with tape mind you) but it didn't do much.
Most new furnaces come equipped with D/C motors witch
Greatly increases your fan efficiency. Most wear and tear/energy consumption occurs when the motor is starting up. Your t-stat should be equipped with a fan switch, if not a fan switch can be easily installed on your furnace cabinet.
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Ironically, the cheaper, plastic vent covers actually provide a pretty tight seal when you flip the switch to close them. Much better than the old school aluminum versions with the pivoting flap inside.
I didn't realize that so many people ran their fan 24/7. I usually do in the summer, particularly at night to help the air circulate but I have avoided it in the winter because I was assuming (wrongly, evidently!) that it would bring in cold air from the outside and make the furnace run more.
Come to think of it, I have two ways of enabling the furnace fan. One is the switch on the thermostat, and the other is a wall switch near the thermostat. If I remember correctly, the wall switch activates a blower fan that sucks outside are in and runs the furnace fan, whereas the furnace switch just runs the furnace fan.
Does this make sense to anyone familiar with these systems? Obviously I'd want to run only the furnace fan in the winter. I'll have to check on that tonight.
I didn't realize that so many people ran their fan 24/7. I usually do in the summer, particularly at night to help the air circulate but I have avoided it in the winter because I was assuming (wrongly, evidently!) that it would bring in cold air from the outside and make the furnace run more.
Come to think of it, I have two ways of enabling the furnace fan. One is the switch on the thermostat, and the other is a wall switch near the thermostat. If I remember correctly, the wall switch activates a blower fan that sucks outside are in and runs the furnace fan, whereas the furnace switch just runs the furnace fan.
Does this make sense to anyone familiar with these systems? Obviously I'd want to run only the furnace fan in the winter. I'll have to check on that tonight.
The switch on your wall is for a separate ventilation fan that pulls fresh air from the outside of your house and exchanges it with the current air - this is the one you should be using in the summer at night or if you burn dinner.
The switch on your thermostat simply circulates the air already inside your house - which is the one to run 24/7 during winter.
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Furnace Balancing - Is there such a thing?
