03-16-2010, 05:11 PM
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#1
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Crash and Bang Winger
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Tell me what you know about hot water tanks
Our tank seems to be on it's last leg, but I'm not entirely sure. There's two of us living at home and it's jacked up all the way to the highest setting. We've been moving it up for a year and a half, now wondering if it's on it's way out.
Is there a way to get the thermostat checked, or if we need to replace the heating coil? Or do we just need a new one? Anyway to tell how old the damn thing is? The house is about 12 years old, so if it's the original tank, then I wouldn't feel so bad about a replacement. I don't want to go to repair men or stores quite yet, because I don't need to be "sold" on anything, just need some good old fashioned advice. Also, can't afford those new instant hot water dealies, so that's out of the equation too.
Thoughts brain trust?
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03-16-2010, 05:17 PM
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#2
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Offered up a bag of cans for a custom user title
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Westside
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From what I know (after going through a few of them) most people will recommend a new hot water tank rather than a repair. I am not sure if that is legit or not, but that is likely what you will hear.
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03-16-2010, 05:28 PM
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#3
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First Line Centre
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Probably playing Xbox, or...you know...
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dip tube? ...look it up...takes the cold water (intake) from the top of the tank to the bottom. If it's busted, the cold water coming in mixes with the hot stuff coming out, resulting in some hot water followed by lukewarm/cold water in a short matter of time.
...could be the problem.
__________________
That's the bottom line, because StoneCole said so!
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03-16-2010, 05:28 PM
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#4
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Scoring Winger
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: calgary
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I changed the cold dip tube in mine, and that seemed to help circulate the cold water down to push the hot water up. supposedly after a bunch of years they can melt or lose their shape. I didn't see what the original looked like as it cracked and is now just floating aimlessly in there.
My parents did the same thing and when they pulled out the old dip tube, it was quite disformed apparently. Anyways, that's bought them another 7 years on the tank so far, though I do hear that's quite unusual.
Anyways, something to think about, so far, we've noticed a good improvement in our hot water supply. I don't think 7 years is reasonable to expect though, we're hoping it lasts another 2 or 3 right now.
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03-16-2010, 05:29 PM
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#5
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Lifetime Suspension
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 51.04177 -114.19704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nage Waza
From what I know (after going through a few of them) most people will recommend a new hot water tank rather than a repair. I am not sure if that is legit or not, but that is likely what you will hear.
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I think that's true - they usually have to make two visits - one to diagnose and order the correct parts needed and another to come and fix it. With a Water heater, they'd have to disconnect everything, open it up, diagnose it, seal it up, re install it so you have water and then order the parts.
Rinse-repeat for the repair.
I can see that being more expensive than $300-400 for a new 40GAL hot water tank.
It'd be nice to get a definitive answer though
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03-16-2010, 05:37 PM
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#6
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Powerplay Quarterback
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Nothing.
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03-16-2010, 05:56 PM
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#7
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amorak
I think that's true - they usually have to make two visits - one to diagnose and order the correct parts needed and another to come and fix it. With a Water heater, they'd have to disconnect everything, open it up, diagnose it, seal it up, re install it so you have water and then order the parts.
Rinse-repeat for the repair.
I can see that being more expensive than $300-400 for a new 40GAL hot water tank.
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Quoted for truth
In addition, many people would rather pay an extra $100-200 over the cost of repairs and simply get a new tank that is going to be much more efficient and reliable when compared to their old tank.
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03-16-2010, 06:56 PM
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#8
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Lifetime Suspension
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 51.04177 -114.19704
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I was looking @ Home Depot, and boy has Tankless dropped in price! It's gone under $1,000 now.
I like how (with the right sized unit) you never run out of hot H2O, but I wonder, with current tankless prices, are the cost savings now real?
I know before it was a big family savings thing (3-4+ people in a house) before it became economical...
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03-16-2010, 07:06 PM
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#9
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wins 10 internets
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: slightly to the left
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i know from Mythbusters that if you disable the safeties, they'll turn into super awesome rockets that will plow through a 2 level house
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Hemi-Cuda For This Useful Post:
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03-16-2010, 07:09 PM
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#10
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 127.0.0.1
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try flushing it from the valve at the bottom.
__________________
Pass the bacon.
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03-16-2010, 07:22 PM
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#11
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amorak
I know before it was a big family savings thing (3-4+ people in a house) before it became economical...
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Actually, what I was told is a larger household means you recycle the water in the tank more frequently so it's not that bad. With less people in the house you just end up heating water in the tank, which then sits there and has to be reheated so it's not as efficient. Personally I don't think there is a huge difference.
I have a tankless system. It's a Rinnai which is the top rated manufacturer... and it's certainly nowhere close to $1000. From the experiences we've had it's not something I would go bargain hunting with. Looking at the Bosch unit at Home Depot it is not Energy Star rated and only does 3.5 gallons per minute which I'm thinking is a little light and could cause problems. I believe the Rinnai unit I have is over 9. The Rinnai is a 6 burner unit so it will only fire off the number of burners required to heat the water to your temperature. I don't know if the Bosch unit is the same or not but it's something I'd check.
Beyond the unit, you need to make sure the installation is done properly. The gas line to the system needs to be the first T off the main line. You'll also need Atco out to replace your gas meter so it pushes enough gas through for both your furnace and water heater otherwise your water heater might cut out.
Another consideration is to leave your tank system in place (assuming there is nothing wrong with it). By doing this you have a supply of water sitting at room temp instead of pulling water directly from the line. The tankless system then doesn't need to fire as many burners off to heat the water this adding a bit more efficiency. The other advantage is if there is ever anything wrong with your tankless unit you can have them reconnect the gas to the tank and you'll have hot water. They can then take the tankless unit to the shop and fix it or if they have to order a part it's not as big a deal.
I love the tankless system. As the second showerer in the morning from time to time I had a shorter shower as the tank ran empty. I no longer have that issue. We can also run the dishwasher and shower at the same time.
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03-16-2010, 07:23 PM
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#12
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Crash and Bang Winger
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Lots of good info, thanks guys. I'll check out the dip tube thing for sure. Any thoughts on how to tell how old the bugger is?
I agree with the - getting a repair guy to come out $ vs. getting a new one $. Still, trying to avoid any costs that we don't have to have at the moment.
Side note, on the tankless systems, I've heard that it takes quite a while to actually get the water hot, that you have to leave the taps running for some time, wasting water in the process. One friend said it was really annoying because every time they went to do dishes, or wash their hands, they'd have to run the water for too long.
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03-16-2010, 07:33 PM
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#13
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOK
Side note, on the tankless systems, I've heard that it takes quite a while to actually get the water hot, that you have to leave the taps running for some time, wasting water in the process. One friend said it was really annoying because every time they went to do dishes, or wash their hands, they'd have to run the water for too long.
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True. The water in the lines isn't hot so you basically have to flush that out before you get hot water. Depending of course on the distance. Hot water in the basement is pretty quick, not bad in the kitchen and to get up to the second level it takes a couple of minutes. I don't need hot water to wash my hands and we have a dishwasher so the dishes problem really isn't a big deal. I don't find it takes forever to get hot water in the kitchen though anyway so it's not a huge issue. There is a trade off though.
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03-16-2010, 07:44 PM
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#14
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOK
Lots of good info, thanks guys. I'll check out the dip tube thing for sure. Any thoughts on how to tell how old the bugger is?
I agree with the - getting a repair guy to come out $ vs. getting a new one $. Still, trying to avoid any costs that we don't have to have at the moment.
Side note, on the tankless systems, I've heard that it takes quite a while to actually get the water hot, that you have to leave the taps running for some time, wasting water in the process. One friend said it was really annoying because every time they went to do dishes, or wash their hands, they'd have to run the water for too long.
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I had to replace the dip tube in mine a few years back. When it goes it breaks off and falls into the tank. No big deal.
A new one is about 7-8 bux at Home Depot. Just a plastictube with a flared end.
Do that and then flush out the bottom via the valve at the bottom of the tank. It removes sediments that collect over the years.
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03-16-2010, 08:19 PM
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#15
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 127.0.0.1
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I'm draining my tank right now.
__________________
Pass the bacon.
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03-16-2010, 08:38 PM
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#16
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Crash and Bang Winger
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[QUOTE=DOK;2401463]Lots of good info, thanks guys. I'll check out the dip tube thing for sure. Any thoughts on how to tell how old the bugger is?
You can tell the age of a tank by its seriel no. which can be found on every tank's rating plate.
It varies by manufacturer. On John Wood heaters I believe that it is the last 4 digits gives you the manufactured date. i.e. ...0501 = May 2001.
On some makes it is the first 4 digits.
And on Bradford White heaters, it is a 2 letter code, see this link for decoding details: http://www.bradfordwhite.com/findaserial.asp
I completely agree that if money is an issue, than checking the diptube is the most resonable first course of action. It is cheap and relativly easy.
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03-16-2010, 09:23 PM
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#17
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Threadkiller
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 51.0544° N, 114.0669° W
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Yeah, check the tubes first, try replacing them.
Going rate for a 40gal installed is about $1000
Hot water tanks nowadays have a lifespan of 7-12 years, if you have soft water, more, if you have hard and never flush the tank, less...
Check the net for reviews on various brands... Rheem was the cats a$$ about 11 years ago when I bought mine, but that may have changed...
I'll also be in the market for a new tank soon...
PS and FYI - change the pressure relief valve on your tank every 4 or 5 years - its a $12 piece of mind, and really easy to do.
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03-16-2010, 09:31 PM
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#18
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Scoring Winger
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: calgary
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If you do the dip tubes yourself, make suer you get the right putty sealant stuff as well, my dad helped me do that and we had to do a little bit of DIY welding, all in all, i think it cost us 40-50 for everything in the end.
I'd read up on how to do it properly if you plan on taking this route, definitely made me a little bit handier around the house while doing it though.
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03-20-2010, 12:38 PM
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#19
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Crash and Bang Winger
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Thanks again for all the info guys! I've been trying to look for average pricing on hot water tanks, but they seem all over the map. From $200 - $900. Any idea how much it might be to get a new one? Our house is 2,000 sq ft, not sure if that plays into it or not.
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03-20-2010, 05:04 PM
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#20
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Lifetime Suspension
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$750 should be lots for a natural gas 40 gal. tank installed.
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