Drywall / Taping question

[ken0042]

My question is simple- what exactly is the purpose in the tape used when mudding and taping? I've tried to look it up, but every website makes the assumption that we all know you need the tape.

Here's my issue. I'm doing the basement and am having a tough time with one joint on the ceiling. I tried to get some more mud under the tape, and ended up pulling out the entire 8 foot length of tape again.

Yes, I could sand it back again and re-apply the tape; but I'm wondering if there would be any harm in just mudding that area and leaving it as is. Is it just going to be more likely to crack?

And on a side note, if anybody wants a 1/2 full bucket of that popcorn stuff that is supposed to be easy to roll onto a ceiling; let me know.

[Shazam]

The tape keeps the pieces together.

Use mesh. I find it's far easier to work with.

If you insist on using paper, wet it before applying.

[ken0042]

Originally Posted by Shazam

The tape keeps the pieces together.

And that's what I always read. My question is, won't the mud do that on its own?

[habernac]

I thought the purpose of tape was more to hide the intersection of the pieces of drywall than anything.

[Eagle Eye]

yup it is to stop cracking at the joints

[GoinAllTheWay]

I never wet my tape before hand, doing say makes it hard to get into the corners I found. Fold it in half, poke it into the corners, much easier to do when it's rigid. The coat of mud you put up for the tape anyways should be much thinner and soupier than the actual coats you will do.

My corners turned out just fine with this method.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay

I never wet my tape before hand, doing say makes it hard to get into the corners I found. Fold it in half, poke it into the corners, much easier to do when it's rigid. The coat of mud you put up for the tape anyways should be much thinner and soupier than the actual coats you will do.

My corners turned out just fine with this method.

Didn't have a problem doing corners with wet tape.

I didn't like using thin mud after a while. It's a beginner's trick. Takes forever to dry too.

[GoinAllTheWay]

/\/\/\

May not work for all, my only issue was I found it ripped easily when wet.

[Bownesian]

Originally Posted by ken0042

And that's what I always read. My question is, won't the mud do that on its own?

The mud has no tensional strength while the mesh or paper tape does. As your house changes shape with seasonal changes, that will be enough to pull at the joints enough to cause a failure (crack).

A useful analogy would be to think about reinforced concrete in a bridge. The concrete pillars bear the compressional load while the tensional load of the bridge span is transferred by the steel across the span to the pillars.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay

/\/\/\

May not work for all, my only issue was I found it ripped easily when wet.

Didn't have much of a problem with it ripping. Just squeeze out the excess moisture with your fingers. Then apply.

[Bownesian]

Originally Posted by Shazam

Didn't have much of a problem with it ripping. Just squeeze out the excess moisture with your fingers. Then apply.

Or use mesh which is way easier for the amateur user.

[ken0042]

Yeah, that "more moisture in the paper" trick was how the 2nd try at the tape went up. Which is why I'm back here now.

With respect to the strength, does it make a difference that this seam is in a 9' X 10' room, and basically connects the butt ends of sheets to a factory edge of a piece that is only 2 feet wide? Going back to the bridge analogy, do I need that much reinforcement in such a short span?

[Bownesian]

It'll crack.

Any flex whatsoever in the wall/ceiling (unavoidable because of humidity and temperature changes, not to mention wear and tear or ceiling flexing if it's in a basement) will be transferred by the paper in the drywall to the only place that has no tensional strength - the seam. By taping, the wall behaves mechanically as if it were a single sheet.

[ken0042]

OK, the one thing I had heard was that paper was the easier method, but you guys all figure the mesh is better for the beginner?

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by Bownesian

Or use mesh which is way easier for the amateur user.

Yes, I already said that.

Originally Posted by ken0042

OK, the one thing I had heard was that paper was the easier method, but you guys all figure the mesh is better for the beginner?

Yes. Oh god yes. It's waaaaay easier. Paper is necessary for the corners. For all other joints, esp. butt joints, it's waaaaaaaay better.

[Bownesian]

Mrs. Bownesian (the #1 taper in our household) uses mesh in the corners too and we haven't had any problems.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by Bownesian

Mrs. Bownesian (the #1 taper in our household) uses mesh in the corners too and we haven't had any problems.

I'm not that daring

Actually, I think I do remember seeing mesh with the crease in it already.

[Bownesian]

Me neither :-)

The division of expertise in our house is:
Me - demo, framing, insulation/vapour barrier, boarding, general carpentry, anything that being tall or strong helps with
Mrs. - electrical, plumbing, mudding, anything that being small or really patient helps with

[habernac]

Originally Posted by ken0042

OK, the one thing I had heard was that paper was the easier method, but you guys all figure the mesh is better for the beginner?

defnitely. I'm a hack when it comes to home improvement, but the mesh stuff was pretty easy to work with when I did my basement and my garage.

[Rerun]

I believe the purpose of the tape and mudding is to cover up the joints/cracks and the screw heads. You tape these and then you mud the tape to blend it in (so you don't see the tape lines when you paint).

I may be wrong though... what the heck do I know... I'm not a drywaller, I just watch Mike Holmes's tv show a lot.