Any RV experts here? towing question

[DementedReality]

Wifey and I are buying a camping trailer and frankly I dont feel like I can trust these trailer sales guys when it comes to what I can and cant pull. I have received a few different answers and each guy says "i wont sell you something you cant pull". Anyhow, thought I would come to the place that "god" comes to for answers!

The trailer we are looking is as follows:
Polomino S-195SD - Hybrid
Specs
Hitch Dry Weight - 331 lbs
Dry Axl Weight - 3028 lbs
Total Dry Weight - 3359 lbs
Carrying Capacity - 1376 lbs
GVWR - 4731 lbs

I have two tow vehicles
One is a 2007 FJ Cruiser - 5000 lbs tow rating
One is a 2007 Dodge Dakota - 4000 lbs tow rating

We would prefer to tow with the Dakota because it already has a tow package, but I wont compromise safety, so will equip the Toyota if neccesary.

Any thoughts on this? Anyone familar with the brand or the dealer (Field of Dreams).

Thanks!

[BlackArcher101]

What size engine do you have in each? Auto or manual? tranny cooler?

[Ironhorse]

All right, for starters, you're already doing the right thing by not listening to the trailer sales guys. They are just there to make a sale, and I wouldn't trust them further than I can throw them.

Like BA says, make sure you have a tranny cooler on whatever you're towing with!

Your hybrid will probably weigh over 4000lbs by the time you add water, propane, gear, food, "stuff" (beer ). The dryweight will also not include any extra options you may add to the trailer. As it is never pleasant for both the driver and the truck to tow near the limit, I would stick with the Toyota. Get the Hitchshop to add a towbar and a 7 way plug, and you should be good to go. If you can, don't buy the weight distributing hitch / anti-sway / brake controller from the RV dealer, they'll overcharge and undersell you; that gear is a whole other subject.

Now, instead of all the sales literature and commercials, what really determines what you can tow is on the sticker on the driver's door jamb. You have three major weight limits: GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating), rear GAWR (gross axle weight rating) and front GAWR. Those are the most important. There is also the GCVWR, which is the combined weight of your truck, you, your family, your stuff, and your loaded trailer. And don't forget to look up the published "tow" rating for your particular configuration of truck; this should be in your manual somewhere.

If you can, the best thing to do is to figure out how much your truck weighs with you, the wife and any family members and all your "stuff" like food, beverages, and firewood. You may be surprised. Subtract that amount from your GVWR to make sure if you have any room left for the trailer tongue weight. I suspect your hitch dryweight will become 400lb+ once you have water and propane tanks on board.

Having said all that, I think the Toyota should be capable of doing the job safely, but double check the numbers to make sure. The 19' length is OK. Remember, you're buying a trailer for enjoyment, and not to get extra stress from a bad setup.

Edit: In an attempt to be more clear.

[DementedReality]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

..awesome stuff snipped.

thanks a tonne Ironhorse.

Extra Tranny Cooler - for sure. Any suggestion on a hitch shop and equipment?

4.0L on the Toyota, automatic.

Thanks for all your help, any other helpful tips would be very appreciated!

[Sample00]

in my opinion,
I dont think either vehicle is suited to the job properly.
once you get that trailer filled up with stuff. Its gonna be pushing close to that 5000lb capacity.
If yer travelling through the mountains like that, your vehicle is going to be struggling, tranny cooler or not.
Always err on the side of caution when it comes to stuff like that.
I have a 26' Outback and it gets pulled by a F350 Diesel. Overkill for sure, but I know I will never have to worry bout pulling it anywhere.
In BC they will pull you over and inspect for weight to ensure your vehicle is strong enough to pull it, so just be careful.

[Ironhorse]

The Hitchshop have done good work for me in the past.

I assume that you'll be using a weigth distributing hitch. For that, I would recommend either a Reese Dual Cam or an E-qual-izer brand.

Don't get sucked into the cheap "friction" anti-sway bars. If you go with a Reese Dual Cam (and I *think* also the E-qual-izer), an anti-sway mechanism is built into the setup. Believe me, you don't want a swaying trailer; it takes all the fun out of it! I tow an old 23' Airstream which originally came with a friction anti-sway bar. Airstreams are amongst the easiest towing trailers out there, but I still noticed quite a difference when I switched over to a Reese Dual-Cam.

I also recommend a good inertia based brake controller such as the Tekonsha Prodigy. Generally, you get what you pay for with a brake controller. Local prices for the Prodigy tend to be high, but I picked one up on eBay for about $100 and the Hitchshop put it in for me.

And be aware that you will not be winning any speed contests if you tow with the Toyota. Like Sample says, heavy grades may be a bit of a challenge, and you'll be slow going up them.

Sample00, keep an eye on your trailer's frame towing with that 1 ton. I've heard of people having cracked frames due to the stiff ride on the truck.

And I'm not sure if BC checks to see if your vehicle is strong enough, but they will check to make sure you are within your weight and towing limits.

[Nufy]

I bought my trailer at Field of Dreams a few years ago.

Salesman was actually helpful and didn't try to sell me more than what I wanted. I was even able to haggle the price down a bit because the model year was over.

But back on Topic... I suggest the Toyota with a Tow package.

I was thinking about getting a Dakota with the V8 to pull my 16Ft hybrid.

Very glad that I didn't. Even with a brake controller there is the possibility of having that trailer push you around a bit due to the Dakotas lighter weight as compared to the Toyota or a Full Size Pickup.

Oh and do get a brake controller for the trailer. Even a cheap one is better then relying on the cars brakes to stop both units........