Getting a suit made (and other sartorial things)

[peter12]

Alright, I know I will get flamed for this, but I'm feeling kind of masochistic today, plus I want some advice.

My work attire is normally "high-end" business casual. Navy blazer or cotton, soft-shouldered jacket with chinos + tie. I hate buying suits off the rack, I have large shoulders, no ass, and a back that's 10 feet long. I'm not the guy that can go Banana Republic special and look like George Clooney. So awhile ago, after my last disastrous suit purchase, I made a commitment to only do bespoke work for suits for the rest of my life. The problem is, that they cost $3000 and up, but I've had a bit of a windfall lately, basically grant money, and I've decided to go a bit dandy and get a suit made.

That said, anyone have any experience in this sort of thing? Any suggestions for a first bespoke suit? I was thinking of something a bit "out there." I've got a bit of an image with my friends, co-workers as a bit of a sartorial eccentric, so I am pretty sure I will not be getting your basic charcoal or navy number. I was even thinking of getting something in a maroon or burgundy, maybe a tweed.

Anyway, this thread probably won't go anywhere beyond the usual catcalls, which is okay, but I know worth and some others have a thing for clothing etc...

[GoinAllTheWay]

I admire your honesty about your body type.

I wish I could have a suit made for me. Don't need one but sure would be money.

Unfortunatley that is all I have to add to your thread.

[CaptainCrunch]

Originally Posted by peter12

Alright, I know I will get flamed for this, but I'm feeling kind of masochistic today, plus I want some advice.

My work attire is normally "high-end" business casual. Navy blazer or cotton, soft-shouldered jacket with chinos + tie. I hate buying suits off the rack, I have large shoulders, no ass, and a back that's 10 feet long. I'm not the guy that can go Banana Republic special and look like George Clooney. So awhile ago, after my last disastrous suit purchase, I made a commitment to only do bespoke work for suits for the rest of my life. The problem is, that they cost $3000 and up, but I've had a bit of a windfall lately, basically grant money, and I've decided to go a bit dandy and get a suit made.

That said, anyone have any experience in this sort of thing? Any suggestions for a first bespoke suit? I was thinking of something a bit "out there." I've got a bit of an image with my friends, co-workers as a bit of a sartorial eccentric, so I am pretty sure I will not be getting your basic charcoal or navy number. I was even thinking of getting something in a maroon or burgundy, maybe a tweed.

Anyway, this thread probably won't go anywhere beyond the usual catcalls, which is okay, but I know worth and some others have a thing for clothing etc...

Honestly I've had suits made, and paid high end dollars for them. And my biggest piece of advice, is if your going to spend a thousand or 2 thousand or more on a custom made suit, you want to be conservative and not out there, you want the timeless suit, that you can use for a while, because unless your willing to spend lets say 3 to 9 thousand bucks a year on suits (estimate 3 suits a year) going with the latest fashion will make the suit unwearable within a year).

I've also found that the neutral colors work best, and certain types of subtle pinstripping dosen't ever go out of style.

A proper high end suit that you take good care of, can last you up to 3 or 4 years.

[Hack&Lube]

I have my suits made in Asia. Fully tailor made wool cashmere cost me about $120 CAD a suit.

Tailor made clothes are just ridiculously high priced in North America and I would never consider it myself.

[shawnjohn]

Originally Posted by peter12

Alright, I know I will get flamed for this, but I'm feeling kind of masochistic today, plus I want some advice.

My work attire is normally "high-end" business casual. Navy blazer or cotton, soft-shouldered jacket with chinos + tie. I hate buying suits off the rack, I have large shoulders, no ass, and a back that's 10 feet long. I'm not the guy that can go Banana Republic special and look like George Clooney. So awhile ago, after my last disastrous suit purchase, I made a commitment to only do bespoke work for suits for the rest of my life. The problem is, that they cost $3000 and up, but I've had a bit of a windfall lately, basically grant money, and I've decided to go a bit dandy and get a suit made.

That said, anyone have any experience in this sort of thing? Any suggestions for a first bespoke suit? I was thinking of something a bit "out there." I've got a bit of an image with my friends, co-workers as a bit of a sartorial eccentric, so I am pretty sure I will not be getting your basic charcoal or navy number. I was even thinking of getting something in a maroon or burgundy, maybe a tweed.

Anyway, this thread probably won't go anywhere beyond the usual catcalls, which is okay, but I know worth and some others have a thing for clothing etc...

I have a friend who is works the made to measure department at Harry Rosen.

PM me for his contact information.

[worth]

Just a note, Made to Measure is not the same as Bespoke.

[peter12]

Originally Posted by shawnjohn

I have a friend who is works the made to measure department at Harry Rosen.

PM me for his contact information.

Made to Measure is paying for the brand, not the work.

As for the Asian suits, the cuts are normally not very... good in my experience unless you are paying $500 to $1000 for Hong Kong or Shanghai suits. The Thailand specials aren't my thing.

Oh yeah, I'm a snob. I should have said that earlier. I'm not in this for a deal, I know why I'm paying and what I'm getting. I just wanted some discussion on the process and cuts.

[Cheese]

Like these?

[peter12]

You've got to appreciate Cherry. Except for the fact that he wears curtain material, his suits are pretty well cut, and he always rocks the pocket square and even boutonniere!

[socktape]

You could try this guy http://tailoredman.com/ they come to town every 3-4 months.

I have had shirts made from him in the past and really liked them. The next time around I am going to get some dress pants done. I have heard good things about the suits and if there is a problem you just see him the next time he's in town and they're good about fixing it. You pick the style, fabric etc. and if you buy a suit they usually throw in a shirt or two. For 3 grand you could probably come away with 3-4 suits and same number or more custom dress shirts as well.

[firebug]

Here is a look you should consider


Linked from Permanent Style.

That suit excluded, Simon does offer considerable advice on the process of bespoke tailoring.

You might also consider reviewing the advice Wil provides at A Suitable Wardrobe.

As far as true 'bespoke' I don't believe it really exists in Calgary. The closest shot would likely be the tailor who's shop is located on 37th St. and 17th Avenue. Everything else will essentially be 'Made to Measure' (not that that is a terrible thing).

For more fashion forward suitings, I would consider Isaia at Holt's or Etro at Harry's through their MTM programs.

For best value in a high quality suits, look for Samuelsson's products (including Harry's J.P. Tilford line).

[worth]

I have never had a Bespoke suit made.

I have bought suits off the rack from Moores. I would only recommend this if you need a suit that you wear once a year and you really don't care that you look terrible in it.

My other suit experiences involve online MTM suits, which can be hit or miss. Most of the online MTM companies are Chinese for obvious reasons. But with these companies, you get cheap quality and cheap materials.

Perhaps with Harry Rosen, the materials they would use for a MTM suit would be better, i'm not sure.

A Bespoke suit, you could actually supply your tailor with the material you want to use. I've heard of people buying high quality material off ebay for $50 and getting a suit made out of it.

When I was talking with Giovanni at the Tailor Shop, I asked if he could do a Bespoke suit for less than $2,000, and he said no problem.

I would also have to echo that your first time around to go with something a little more conservative. I'm assuming you don't already have a tailor. If your first suit is simple, it will give you an opportunity to get to know your tailor and you guys can talk about certain aspects you like. If your first one turns out well, you can go back to him and do more creative stuff and use your first suit as a basis.

I'm also thinking of getting a Bespoke suit done, maybe in a few months or next year.

[peter12]

Originally Posted by worth

I have never had a Bespoke suit made.

I have bought suits off the rack from Moores. I would only recommend this if you need a suit that you wear once a year and you really don't care that you look terrible in it.

My other suit experiences involve online MTM suits, which can be hit or miss. Most of the online MTM companies are Chinese for obvious reasons. But with these companies, you get cheap quality and cheap materials.

Perhaps with Harry Rosen, the materials they would use for a MTM suit would be better, i'm not sure.

A Bespoke suit, you could actually supply your tailor with the material you want to use. I've heard of people buying high quality material off ebay for $50 and getting a suit made out of it.

When I was talking with Giovanni at the Tailor Shop, I asked if he could do a Bespoke suit for less than $2,000, and he said no problem.

I would also have to echo that your first time around to go with something a little more conservative. I'm assuming you don't already have a tailor. If your first suit is simple, it will give you an opportunity to get to know your tailor and you guys can talk about certain aspects you like. If your first one turns out well, you can go back to him and do more creative stuff and use your first suit as a basis.

I'm also thinking of getting a Bespoke suit done, maybe in a few months or next year.

It's good to know that we'll be tip-toeing through the tulips together. Yeah, for the first suit, I do lean towards a grey flannel or a navy, something that's a good stand-by and a blank slate. I do like a bit more flamboyance, not to the point of tastelessness of course, but I do not shy away from wearing bolder colours within decency. It just makes things more fun, especially since most Calgary men's idea of dressing well is either wearing a Moore's suit or a sweater. I like Calgary, but we're a pretty dull bunch compared to say Montrealers.

[burn_this_city]

Whats a chino?

[Winsor_Pilates]

Have you tried looking on the Style Forums?
I'm sure there's some Calgary folk on there who would know of Calgary bespoke options (if there are any).

[Reggie Dunlop]

Originally Posted by burn_this_city

Whats a chino?

[Kybosh]

Isn't it a little unethical to use grant money on a custom suit?

[peter12]

Originally Posted by burn_this_city

Whats a chino?

Known as khaki pants, but in a variety of colours.

[worth]

Originally Posted by Winsor_Pilates

Have you tried looking on the Style Forums?
I'm sure there's some Calgary folk on there who would know of Calgary bespoke options (if there are any).

The Tailor Shop on 17th and 37th SW does Bespoke work

and Reggie says Henry's Tailoring does also:

http://forum.calgarypuck.com/showthr...hlight=bespoke

Those would be the only places in the City that do this type of work. Bespoke Tailors in Canada are extremely hard to come by,

[troutman]