Building fence and need tips

[crashbandit]

Hi everyone,

It's going to be a nice weekend so I want to make the most of the nice weather and replace a section of my fence. I have to do everything from scatch including the studs and holes to be dug.

Some main things I worry about are hitting any utilities when I dig the new holes. I think the holes should be close to 2 feet deep. Could I hit anything 2 feet down? Also, is tamping gravel around the post good enough to secure it in the ground? Or should I use cement too?

I plan on just going to Rona with the design I want and the amount of feet of fencing I need and hopefully they can get it all together for me.

What are some other things that an amateur fence builder might not know about?

Thanks

[HPLovecraft]

If you're replacing your old fence, can't you dig the holes pretty much in the same spot as the old ones? That way you don't have to bother with worrying about blowing yourself up. If not, I'd call the cable and gas company and they'll come out to mark the spots where the lines run.

I'd also make sure you are digging holes of adequate enough depth for your posts. Two feet doesn't seem deep enough to me, unless it's a pretty short fence. If it's about man height or higher, I'd look at digging three feet down. The depth of the holes is probably the most important part when trying to have a stable fence.

[photon]

Definitely call before you dig!

For digging the holes, check Kijiji there's a bunch of people that'll just drive in and dig them for you with a bobcat or something similar, might be cheaper than renting something to do it yourself (and better results than digging with a shovel).

I'd use cement too, pretty easy to mix in a wheelbarrow, or if you need a lot there's also places that you can call and they'll deliver concrete in a mixer ready to go to your door.

[Sr. Mints]

Originally Posted by HPLovecraft

If you're replacing your old fence, can't you dig the holes pretty much in the same spot as the old ones? That way you don't have to bother with worrying about blowing yourself up. If not, I'd call the cable and gas company and they'll come out to mark the spots where the lines run.

Actually, you can call Alberta One-Call and they get in touch with everyone (except Shaw, IIRC) to come out an mark the lines buried in your yard. By calling them, you absolve yourself any any liability if something gets damaged. And if you hit, say, a fiber optic line or gas line or water pipe, you'd be liable for megabucks if you did not call to have it marked.

[Northendzone]

First thing I would recommend is plan the project a little more in advance - i.e. It can make the project go smoother if you pick up your initial suspplies on Wednesday.

Normallyyou want to set your posts 3 feet down, if you are having holes dug most reputable operators will not dig unless your property has been marked by the folks at albertaonecall.

My last recommendation would be to consider going with 6 x6 posts if you think you are going to be in your house a while.

Otherwise go slow and have fun.......

[normtwofinger]

Use a dry-line to keep your posts straight. Hopefully you aren't building in the far NW, full of clay and boulders.

[vanisleflamesfan]

A general rule of thumb is half your standing height in the ground. So, if you are building a 6 foot fence you will want 3 feet of post in the ground and you will need 9 foot posts. You will need concrete in the holes with a bit of gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage. Depending on where you live in the city, you will probably want to hire someone to dig the holes. Mark where the holes are going to be dug at about 7.5 feet apart.

After the holes are dug, the gravel is put in the holes, the posts are set with concrete, you will need to brace them while they set. Let the posts set for a few days before building anything on them. Alternatively, you can use quick-set concrete but you are still going to have to wait a day. Concrete takes time to set properly.

This first part of the job is not something you can rush. After the posts are set in the concrete, the building goes pretty quickly. That part is more of a 'one weekend' job.

The good folks at Rona, if they know what they are talking about, should give you similar advice.

[CedarMeter]

Originally Posted by HPLovecraft

If you're replacing your old fence, can't you dig the holes pretty much in the same spot as the old ones? That way you don't have to bother with worrying about blowing yourself up. If not, I'd call the cable and gas company and they'll come out to mark the spots where the lines run.

I'd also make sure you are digging holes of adequate enough depth for your posts. Two feet doesn't seem deep enough to me, unless it's a pretty short fence. If it's about man height or higher, I'd look at digging three feet down. The depth of the holes is probably the most important part when trying to have a stable fence.

It isn't deep enough..You should always go a least 3 feet..Two reasons, for stability, and getting below the frost line..How high is your fence, crash?

[return to the red]

Originally Posted by CedarMeter

It isn't deep enough..You should always go a least 3 feet..Two reasons, for stability, and getting below the frost line..How high is your fence, crash?

Not sure where you live but the frost line around these parts is 6 feet deep

[CedarMeter]

Originally Posted by return to the red

Not sure where you live but the frost line around these parts is 6 feet deep

6 FEET!..I don't think it even gets to 2 feet in some parts of Calgary.
http://www.green-team.ca/fences.html

[Rathji]

Originally Posted by Sr. Mints

Actually, you can call Alberta One-Call and they get in touch with everyone (except Shaw, IIRC) to come out an mark the lines buried in your yard. By calling them, you absolve yourself any any liability if something gets damaged. And if you hit, say, a fiber optic line or gas line or water pipe, you'd be liable for megabucks if you did not call to have it marked.

Nope, you are still liable. See http://www.alberta1call.com/docs/homefx.pdf

You are not clear to excavate until all facilities have been located. It is the excavators responsibility to make sure there is no damage to the
located facilities during excavation and placing a request with the one call centre does not remove that responsibility.

Keep in mind that the clearance of 1m on both sides of the markings where you are supposed to expose utilities by hand digging before using machinery, is referring to actual hand digging - not shovel digging.

edit: and in Calgary you need to go at least 3 feet deep for a standard 6 foot wood fence. I would go even deeper (4ft) if the fence between the 2 posts is going to bear the direct force of constant wind or if the post supports a gate.

[return to the red]

Originally Posted by CedarMeter

6 FEET!..I don't think it even gets to 2 feet in some parts of Calgary.
http://www.green-team.ca/fences.html

I live in Lethbridge, which experiences warmer winters on average, and anything that has a constant water supply is recommended to be at least 6 feet deep and that's because of the frost line.

[CedarMeter]

Originally Posted by return to the red

I think they're just being on the safe side cause it's water pipes..Six feet deep that's border line tundra, dude.

[zamler]

4 foot post holes are ideal, 3 feet is fine, the frost line rarely goes deeper, especially the last few years. Use 4x6 posts instead of 4x4's if you can, they hold up much better and don't warp as easily. You don't have to use concrete, but if you do decide to use it, dry pack the holes, they sell concrete specifically for post holes. Dry pack just means you pack the mixture in dry, then wet it, this makes is 10 times easier to do the job (read the directions).

A down side to concreting the holes is the posts will rot out quicker, because water will seep into the space between the post and concrete and get trapped, shortening the life of the posts. Always put a couple of inches of clean gravel at the bottom of the hole. If you chose not to use concrete, you will need to pack the soil down very well, do it in stages. Keep in mind that a post just packed in with soil will not be as stable, but generally they hold up fine.

If you use pressure treated lumber boards, keep in mind that it will shrink up to 20%. If you paint or stain pressure treated, it needs to be reasonable dry, which can take anywhere from a few weeks to months from the date it was manufactured. You must sand the boards before staining or painting, this is because there is a coating that occurs during the treatment process which will interfere with adhesion of the finish.

Get yourself a post level (it has a bubble on two sides) it makes the job much easier. Only use galvanized fasteners if you plan on being around for a decade or more, deck screws rust even though they are painted. Construction screws are not suitable for outdoor use, but they are very commonly used anyway.

[photon]

Dry pack concrete?! Jeez I wish I had known about that...

[Hanna Sniper]

Originally Posted by photon

Dry pack concrete?! Jeez I wish I had known about that...

I wouldn't recommend it though.

If you don't have a lot of holes, i say mix it yourself. middle,You can always rent a mixer... a lot then call in a truck and have it delivered.

[crashbandit]

Cheers guys:0

I'm heading to Rona today with all those useful tips.

I'm going to take the the fence in stages and SLOWLY. No need to rush the most important part, which is setting up the posts and making the line.

I am also putting the posts at least 3 feet down and use 4x6's (treated wood) for the posts with gravel in the bottom.

Since I'm doing only about 20 feet of fence, which is about 5 posts, I'm going to mix the concrete in a barrel.

[red sky]

You can mix the quick setting concrete directly in the hole, it is very easy. Mix around the post with a long stick. Use milk jugs to judge the amount of liquid.