Block Heater

[Temporary_User]

My car was imported from the States, and doesnt have a block heater. I figure I have to go out and get one. I've never had to plug a car in before, because I've always had a garage, or underground parking but at my current place, street parking is all I have.
This said, what temperatures do I have to plug in for, and is it that important? what happens if I miss a day or two?
Anyone know of a place I get get one on the cheap?
any thing else I should know?
thanks

[Draug]

The reason to plug your car in is so the engine block and oil resevoir remains warm. When it is warm, oil can be pumped up to the top of the engine much more easily than when it is cold. It is critical to get oil throughout the engine as quickly as possible in those first few seconds of start up.

When it is -30, it takes less than an hour for the engine block to get as cold as the ambient temperature. In that case, you should plug your car in even during the day if you plan to use it.

The temperature at which you should plug in your car will vary with the type of oil you use. A full Synthetic oil will be more fluid at cold temperatures than a conventional oil. I use synthetic oil, and plug in at -10, but that may be over cautious, but that is OK since I dont end up outside more than a couple of nights each year.

Just because a car starts without being plugged in, doesnt mean it shouldn't have been plugged in. New cars will always start. When it is really cold (and the car hasnt been plugged in), you will hear the engine sounding different for the first 10, 20, or 30 seconds. That is because oil isnt lubricating the top end of the engine. In that case, you're adding a ton of wear and tear.

[iggypop]

Id suggest reading this:
http://www.eurodrivers.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=4774

Sounds like the cheapest alternative I have heard of, and it sounds like they really liked it. I don't know if it works for all makes and models, but it seems like a good place to start.

[FlamesAddiction]

I usually get a timer so that the block heater activates a couple of hours before I get up. A lot of people plug in their car in the evening and keep it plugged in all night. It's just a waste of power.

[Bill Bumface]

My car requires synthetic oil, and as a result doesn't come with a block heater even though I bought it in Calgary. It's actually impossible to get one with a bock heater. The lower model with a different engine, however, uses dino oil and comes with a block heater.

Boy did I look around for a long time in -20 trying to find my plug for the first time

[worth]

I have a block heater and into that i have spliced a car heater on a timer. I plug it in when I get home and it goes on a couple hours before I got to work. My car is nice and toasty warm on the inside when I get in and I don't have to scrape the windshield most days unless it snows a ton or is really cold out. I usually plug it in when it gets cold enough to that I have to scrape. I've had people comment "why are you plugging your block heater in now?" Well, i'm the one with the toasty car and their the one scraping the windshield. I guess a car started would do the same thing, but I digress.

So my block heater is running once it hits 0.

[sclitheroe]

Speaking of block heaters, the plug fell (ok, ripped, I admit it) off the end of the cord on mine.

In wiring on a new plug, do I need to worry about live vs. ground wires? Does the block heater ground to the chassis? I'd hate to get it wrong and have my car "live" by accident.

-Scott

[burn_this_city]

Originally Posted by sclitheroe

Speaking of block heaters, the plug fell (ok, ripped, I admit it) off the end of the cord on mine.

In wiring on a new plug, do I need to worry about live vs. ground wires? Does the block heater ground to the chassis? I'd hate to get it wrong and have my car "live" by accident.

-Scott

I'm pretty sure its grounded. Since its installed in the block and all engines are grounded by the engine mounts. I think if you just install a two prong male plug it will work fine... I know mine did when I ran it over, I heard this weird skipping sound.. turned out to be my block heater cord bouncing off shepard road..

[Tyler]

Kind of a dumb question, but I'm also in the "have always had a garage and now I have to street park my car" boat.

I have a brand new 2007 Mazda 3. How long should I let the car heat up when its cold out before I drive away? I don't want to hurt my car, but I don't want to wait 20 minutes before the car's ready to be driven.

[Bill Bumface]

30 second warmup is optimum.

[ken0042]

And I suggest 5 minutes for every 10 degrees below 0.

Hulkrogan's is more environmentally friendly. Mine is more "don't hit the pedestrians dressed in black because your windshield is fogged up" friendly.

[burn_this_city]

60 seconds is supposed to be adequate.. I hate how rough my diesel runs when its cold so I always idle it for 5 mins every morning its below 10 degrees... If your (gas) car isnt plugged in overnight and its below -10 I would idle it for atleast 2 mins... If its been plugged in, 60 seconds is more than enough..

[4X4]

For those of you that can't or simply don't want to plug in your cars, I recommend testing and/or replacing your alternator and putting in a high CCA battery.
I got into this habit when living on a street with a mean old hag that would actually call and complain about cords crossing the sidewalk. Apparently, she wanted the street littered with stupid looking tent poles stuck into the ground for keeping extension cords off the sidewalk.

Just remember: when changing your battery, be sure to clean the posts. Throw on a little grease, too (most important for top posts).

One quick hour of maintenance allows me to never plug in my truck, plus it always starts with the remote starter.

Oh, and change your oil.

[Temporary_User]

Let me get this straight... My car is from 1996. I could manage to not get a block heater at all, and would just be putting strain on my engine, and have to wait for it to heat up a bit longer than ppl who do plug their cars in?
I was under the impression that the engine would get so cold and seize up, making my car essentially a expensive paper weight.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by Temporary_User

Let me get this straight... My car is from 1996. I could manage to not get a block heater at all, and would just be putting strain on my engine, and have to wait for it to heat up a bit longer than ppl who do plug their cars in?
I was under the impression that the engine would get so cold and seize up, making my car essentially a expensive paper weight.

You got it. The only bad part is your engine will be running with no oil on the valve train for a few seconds.

[4X4]

Well, before you go taking advice from some guy on a messageboard, let me explain...

First, my truck runs 4.3l V6 GM engine. Previous engines I've done this with include a 4.0l V6 ford and the ever reliable 2.9V6 ford (ranger). I did the same in my ex's 3.3l V6 chev.
All I ever did (and still do) is test (and replace if necessary) the alternator. Taking it out and putting it back in is easy. You can get it tested at Auto Value. If you need a new one, get a rebuilt from that place on 17th SE, World Wide. If there's a heavy duty one for your ride, get it. It wont cost more than $80 unless you're in a 6.3l diesel, in which case you should know your own info about vehicles.
While you're getting your alternator tested, get your battery tested. If its old or low CCA, replace it anyway. Nothing worse that a crappy battery in a Calgary winter.

Canadian Tire sells good batteries for good prices. My truck accomidates the 875 CCA Eliminator. If you're in a car, you wont be able to put a battery quite that big, but you also wont need the cranking amps to turn over a smaller engine.

I wont say unilaterally that you run zero risk of damage, but I will tell you that with clean oil and good cranking amps, there is no reason why your car shouldn't start in any weather warmer than -35 unless you've left the thing sitting for 3 days.
All a block heater does is keep the oil pan warm and therefore reduces the initial friction of starting and speed up the entire lubrication process. It is better for your engine... But so is changing your oil every 3,000km instead of 5,000.

A lighter oil in winter also helps initial lubrication. 5w30 is perfect for cars.

I also let my rig warm up for 5-10 minutes when it is that cold, just because I hate a freezing cold vehicle.

**disclaimer** do not confuse my endorsement of Canadian Tire batteries as an endorsement for anything else within their walls, including their mechanics.

[Bring_Back_Shantz]

Originally Posted by 4X4

For those of you that can't or simply don't want to plug in your cars, I recommend testing and/or replacing your alternator and putting in a high CCA battery.
I got into this habit when living on a street with a mean old hag that would actually call and complain about cords crossing the sidewalk. Apparently, she wanted the street littered with stupid looking tent poles stuck into the ground for keeping extension cords off the sidewalk.

Just remember: when changing your battery, be sure to clean the posts. Throw on a little grease, too (most important for top posts).

One quick hour of maintenance allows me to never plug in my truck, plus it always starts with the remote starter.

Oh, and change your oil.

Ah, none of what you have said will fix the fact that when you start you car the oil will be cold, and you'll be doing more wear and tear to your engine than if you had plugged it in.

Plugging in your car isn't all about making sure it starts, it's about making sure you don't damage it when it does start.

[burn_this_city]

Originally Posted by Bring_Back_Shantz

Ah, none of what you have said will fix the fact that when you start you car the oil will be cold, and you'll be doing more wear and tear to your engine than if you had plugged it in.

Plugging in your car isn't all about making sure it starts, it's about making sure you don't damage it when it does start.

Agreed.. I'd follow 4x4's method if I had a full synthetic oil change.. A perfect indication of how thick regular oil gets at -35 is to try and pour a liter of oil thats been sitting outside a gas station in that temp. I worked as a gas jockey in high school and honestly unless you squeezed the p*ss outta the bottle it won't pour. Synthetic on the other hand pours just fine at temps of -35. If your car is old and leaky don't use synthetic, it penetrates everything including your 15 year old oil pan, valve cover, and intake gaskets.. You'll start a leak that never goes away..

Plugging your car in is never a bad idea, everything operates alot better when the internals arent cranking over at -30. Another thing to note, I see alot of people driving their cars hard when they arent warmed up. If you punch it in a car thats engine is still frozen inside your taking a chance of breaking something expensive.. ex: crank shaft in a 79 dodge diplomat, I witnessed one grenade in my buddies car after he floored it at -20.

[Nufy]

I always thought a block heater was inserted into the coolant passages to keep it from freezing.

Don't know how that keeps the Oil warm in the pan. Unless you use an oil pan heater as well.

[Rathji]

Plugging in, as people have stated is mostly about making sure your engine isnt cold as hell when you start cranking. Thats said though, on those -30 + windchill days, your car wont start unless you have very high cranking power.

One hour is the maximum you will need under normal circumstances on a block heater. Either put in a timer at the plug or just plug it in when you wake up.

Another interesting thing we used to do when I was a kid, we had this old beater car that didnt give much heat , so we wired in a small space heater (the kind that cant start things on fire), so you can plug it in with the block heater. On a low setting, it would almost clear the windows on the worst days, so we could just get in and drive away.