02-18-2006, 11:36 PM
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#1
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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need advice on a small reno, Load bearing?
hey guys.. anyone a structural engineer, or has experience in distinguishing if a wall is load bearing or not? I know the basics, but I'd feel more comfortable with a professional oppinion. We're cutting an opening in a wall to have a large aquarium built in.
(Of course i'm asking here first as I'm cheap and don't want to hire someone out of the phonebook  )
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02-18-2006, 11:51 PM
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#2
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Such a pretty girl!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Calgary
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Not only do you want to ensure the house won't cave in from the removal of material, you also want to ensure the structure underneath can support a huge load of water.
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02-19-2006, 12:51 AM
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#3
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackArcher101
Not only do you want to ensure the house won't cave in from the removal of material, you also want to ensure the structure underneath can support a huge load of water.
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yup already have that takin into consideration. Putting in some basement support because the tank will be located parralell to the floor joists.
I'm looking to make sure the roof will be supported.
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02-19-2006, 10:31 AM
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#4
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Franchise Player
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Are you cutting into a 2x6 wall or a 2x4 wall? It's not always the case, but the majority of the time an interior load bearing wall will be built with 2x6. After that, if there is any way for you to determine which way the floor joists run, where the span of those joists end/begin and where any beams may be located, it would be an easy decision. I realize that might be a tough thing to find out though. Also, is it a newer home or older? If it's really old you might not be able to, but if it's newer you could contact the builder and they could probably supply you with the floor plan/joist layout.
Is your basement finished? If not, you can go into the basement and easily determine where all bearing points are. Well, at least if it was done properly and all bearing points were carried to the foundation, which they are supposed to be. One last thing, if you do determine it's load-bearing, you can still do the reno, it just has to be done so that you frame the opening in properly, meaning you'd have to header it off with 2x10's or microlam while properly supporting it in the meantime.
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02-19-2006, 10:33 AM
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#5
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Franchise Player
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Sorry, FG, I did not realize you said the floor joists will run parallel to the wall you are cutting into. It doesn't guarantee it, but increases the chance it isn't a load-bearing wall.
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02-19-2006, 12:56 PM
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#6
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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cool, thanks for the info! there are actually 2 closets in the wall, its all 2x4's. So i figure whenever i take a stud out, i'll put another in. and maybe put some doubled up 2x4's for extra support.
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02-19-2006, 09:30 PM
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#8
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It's not easy being green!
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the tubes to Vancouver Island
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Just as a point..most engineers wouldn't give you their opinion. Technically, if they happen to be wrong, you can sue them because you used that opinion. That is unless they would be smart enough, and most would be, to give you their opinion with proper disclamer that they aren't responsible.
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Who is in charge of this product and why haven't they been fired yet?
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02-19-2006, 09:52 PM
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#9
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Bronze
Hey, no problem man, but if your house falls down, don't come blaming me. 
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Ya man, You just confirmed what I was already thinkin, so I won't hold u liable.
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02-19-2006, 09:53 PM
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#10
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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I wouldn't sue if the roof came down.. whats the worst that could happen, I'd end up in a wheelchair?
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02-20-2006, 12:57 AM
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#11
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: I'm right behind you
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flames_Gimp
I wouldn't sue if the roof came down.. whats the worst that could happen, I'd end up in a wheelchair? 
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Nope, the worst thing that could happen would be for the roof to cave in and crush your skull at the same moment a busload of homosexual hobos arrives to forcibly convert you to another lifestyle.
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Don't fear me. Trust me.
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02-20-2006, 05:57 AM
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#12
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Franchise Player
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A quick engineering type answer...from an electrical engineer...
You have to check above the wall basically to see what it is supporting. IF for instance the wall supports roof joists or any other wall structure above then it is most likely load bearing.
That is the very basics....you still have to do the dirty work and its best you get an expert opinion.
A wall which is supporting its own weight and some other structural elements of the house such as the joists.
www.dulley.com/gloss/kl.htm
A wall that supports a vertical load, such as joists beams, girders, or floor trusses.
www.findhomecontractor.com/what-is-a-contractor.html
Wall that supports the weight of the structure above it. These walls cannot be removed without providing an alternative source of support.
www.greatinspector.com/faq-term-structural.html
In architecture and building technique, a load bearing wall is one in which a wall of a structure bears the weight and force resting upon it, as opposed to a curtain wall which uses the strength of a sub wall and superstructure to carry the weight. In curtain walls, the facing applied is done for cosmetic reasons (this is known as a veneer, or facing material), whereas in load bearing walls the material most often used in large scale buildings was either stone, block or brick.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_bearing_wall
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02-20-2006, 01:25 PM
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#13
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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thanks for info. I'm basically going to replace any stud i need to move, just need to move a few @ 2'.
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