Help With Home Theatre Set-Up - Calgarypuck Forums - The Unofficial Calgary Flames Fan Community

flamesrule_kipper34 · 07-12-2012, 09:10 AM

Hey all,

So I'm moving out soon and I'm sure this is an easy enough set-up to think out but with everything going on the past week with moving out my mind is a mess so I'd love some thoughts/suggestions on how I should do my set-up in terms of inputs/outputs.

What I have:

Optoma HD Projector (HD20) 2 HDMI Inputs
Samsung LCD TV (LN46D630) 4 HDMI Inputs
Elite Projector Motorized Screen
Xbox 360
Shaw HD-PVR
PS3
Sony Home Theatre System (HTSF470) Receiver has 3 HDMI inputs and 1 HDMI output

So my original set-up was different because I only had the projector, but now that I'm moving out I got the new LCD TV to go with my set up.

So I want to think out a practical set-up both for ease of watching/playing on my home-theatre AND cable management.

Basically I want the Projector for movie watching and during the hockey season for Flames' games but for everyday watching I want to watch off the LCD TV.

My brain's fried right now, any ideas on how should set everything up cable-wise?

Any help/thoughts would be great, thanks!

NuclearPizzaMan · 07-12-2012, 10:13 AM

an HDMI switch on the output would be what you want. Make sure to get one with 2 outputs and an IR sensor so your programmable remote will swap inputs as needed (get a Harmony remote).

flamesrule_kipper34 · 07-12-2012, 10:57 AM

I have a Harmony One remote...I'm more concerned about how to set up the HDMI input/outputs to minimize or remove the need for unplugging things from the receiver and/or projector/LCD to switch back and forth from watching things on the LCD and projector.

Northendzone · 07-12-2012, 12:33 PM

seems to me that because you only have one HDMI output on your receiver you will have to either buy a switch (HDMI output on receiver to switch - then 1 output from the switch to projector and a 2nd the TV) or use your HDMI output to your projecter and get some component cables for your regular TV.

Seems to me that with four HDMI inputs you are good there - the outputs are the issue.

all of the sound will need to go into and out of your receiver.

flamesrule_kipper34 · 07-12-2012, 01:06 PM

In terms of the switch, is something like this what I'm looking for?

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX32315

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/produ...d25075e2c3en02

Vulcan · 07-12-2012, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flamesrule_kipper34

In terms of the switch, is something like this what I'm looking for?

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX32315

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/produ...d25075e2c3en02

No those won't work. What you need is a powered splitter like this one (a 1x2, one input in and two out rather than a 2x1)

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I believe that is the one I use for connecting my two TVs and it works well. It passes a 3D signal and outputs to one TV at a time or both TVs.

Here are some other choices

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10113

csnarpy · 07-13-2012, 06:41 PM

you need a matrix. that's what he's talking about i believe

Traditional_Ale · 07-13-2012, 11:33 PM

Hookers and blow.

oilyfan · 07-15-2012, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csnarpy

you need a matrix. that's what he's talking about i believe

He doesn't need a matrix, he needs a switch. A matrix is a much more complex and expensive device, used when there are multiple inputs that need to be interchangeably sent to multiple outputs, his receiver can do that right now. The monoprice switch is the answer.

flamesrule_kipper34 · 07-16-2012, 02:28 PM

So another issue now, our ceiling is solid concrete (I live in a condo).

So pending approval, what's the best way for me to mount this motorized projector (it's 100" diagonal)...it's on a mounth that has hole for it to be put either into the wall or the ceiling, the wall won't work because I want it to be 8" away to go over the LCD TV that's already mounted there.

Currently I have no tools or bolts for this job (or expertise for that matter).

I'm thinking one of these from Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/blue...-x-6-in/975363

To drill the holes, but then what sort of bolts to hold up the screen and such?

oilyfan · 07-16-2012, 05:49 PM

You are in for some work. You will need a masonry bit and concrete anchors. A hammer drill will work best.

DownhillGoat · 07-16-2012, 07:21 PM

Wow did I burn up Tapcon bits drilling in the basement. I don't envy this job.

I may have missed it, but is there a reason you can't mount it on a shelf on the rear wall? Alternatively it may be easier to suspend a shelf from the ceiling vs mounting the projector to the ceiling.

Hammer drill will work. Just get a high volt one or an air driven. Not something I'd cheap out on.

Also, cable management is kind of out the window with a cement ceiling...

Vulcan · 07-16-2012, 08:27 PM

What you guys are talking about is an electric Hilti hammer drill, you should be able to rent one. The thing is I doubt very much if your condo board will approve drilling into the ceiling which is probably the floor of your upstairs neighbours. You may hit the pre or post tension cables of the slab, if that is the construction type or hit rebar which is a pita to get through. If you get the go ahead, you'll need cinch anchors to go in the drilled holes. Something like this.

http://www.platt.com/platt-electric-...spx?zpid=52515

What may be better is a Hilti powder actuated nail gun, where you just nail the 2x4 or whatever you use to secure the screen. Something like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hilti-DX-A41...item3cbba99cbb

flamesrule_kipper34 · 07-17-2012, 08:53 AM

Okay so so far your answers are scaring me and are making me think more and more that the condo board will not approve this.

The reason I wanted to mount off the ceiling was because I need it about 8" away from the wall because I want the screen to come down and not interfere with the LCD TV which is on the same wall so I want it to cover the LCD TV when down.

Also the wall itself has only aluminim studs so I don't think I want to mount something that heavy to just the wall itself?

Anyway, do you guys have any ideas of how I could have the projector screen come down 8" from the wall without having it mounted off the ceiling?

Thanks.

Galakanokis · 07-17-2012, 09:46 AM

I guess it would be possible to build a bulkhead above the TV on the wall but that might prove costly and a lot of work. You would probably run into the same problem with having to drill into the ceiling for proper support though.

Would it be possible to glue a mounting structure to the ceiling? Instead of drilling use PL Premium or something stronger? I've used it to put it up walls where drilling would be a pain and haven't had a issue in the five years the walls have been up (not my place though).

mykalberta · 07-17-2012, 09:55 AM

Yah good luck getting approval to mount anything into the ceiling.

Where abouts are you trying to mount it, on a flat wall in a corner? If its in a corner you could construct a triangular brace substructure and mount the screen on that.

I made something similar to mount my TV to the wall in the corner.

Burninator · 07-17-2012, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flamesrule_kipper34

Also the wall itself has only aluminim studs so I don't think I want to mount something that heavy to just the wall itself?

This is just a regular wall with drywall on it right? It's not aluminum, they are steel studs.

flamesrule_kipper34 · 07-17-2012, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galakanokis

I guess it would be possible to build a bulkhead above the TV on the wall but that might prove costly and a lot of work. You would probably run into the same problem with having to drill into the ceiling for proper support though.

Would it be possible to glue a mounting structure to the ceiling? Instead of drilling use PL Premium or something stronger? I've used it to put it up walls where drilling would be a pain and haven't had a issue in the five years the walls have been up (not my place though).

I'm curious about your adhesive idea...down the road a few years, how if I could/can would I remove the screen?

I'm thinking the screen still has the brackets on it, if I could place the adhesive on the brackets and then on ceiling and not the screen itself then I could unscrew the screen out of the mounts and then just have the mounts to worry about removing off the ceiling?

How much weight can adhesive hold? The screen is motorized so it's a bit heavier, but it's about 25 pounds.

Galakanokis · 07-17-2012, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flamesrule_kipper34

I'm curious about your adhesive idea...down the road a few years, how if I could/can would I remove the screen?

I'm thinking the screen still has the brackets on it, if I could place the adhesive on the brackets and then on ceiling and not the screen itself then I could unscrew the screen out of the mounts and then just have the mounts to worry about removing off the ceiling?

How much weight can adhesive hold? The screen is motorized so it's a bit heavier, but it's about 25 pounds.

Honestly I am not to sure how much weight it could hold. I don't think 25lbs would too much to handle though. Home depot or some on-line searches might answers that best.

I was thinking of using the adhesive to mount 2x4's or whatnot to the concrete ceiling and then your screen to that. Easy to remove the screen not sure about the wood after the fact though. there must be a solvent for it i would imagine. I'll ask dome fiends that work with it a lot closer than I do.

DownhillGoat · 07-19-2012, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flamesrule_kipper34

Also the wall itself has only aluminim studs so I don't think I want to mount something that heavy to just the wall itself?

Anyway, do you guys have any ideas of how I could have the projector screen come down 8" from the wall without having it mounted off the ceiling?

Thanks.

There's a number of screens that mount far enough away while mounted to the wall to go over a tv without interference. Some have brackets to move it even further. I'd be surprised if you need 8" of clearance. When I measured mine up for the same application it was less than 6".

As far as metal studs you may need to cut the drywall and add blocking behind it.

Out of curiosity, is this condo owned or rented?