Trastevere is a nice neighborhood with lots of pubs and restaurants. The part of Trastevere by the tram line (which travels across Ponte Garibaldi) is much more a tourist trap. The crowds thin out quite a bit if you enter Trastevere from Ponte Sisto. There is also a pretty nice market in Trastevere (Porta Portese) on Sunday mornings. Great place to buy very reasonably-priced souvenirs for friends and family.
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