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Originally Posted by looooob
maybe its cliche at this point but we went with our kids about a decade ago (when they were roughly- a year or two older) than yours are now
we stayed in Trastevere- and found it ticked alot of boxes we had at the time but that sound similar to yours- now parts of Travestere are likely a little 'lively' and busy themselves, but we found it really the right tempo for us and easily (long but easy) walks to the main must visit hotspots
https://whereandwander.com/trastever...d-crowds-rome/
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I was going to recommend the same. I haven't been to Rome in about 6-7 years so maybe it's changed since then, but Trastevere was definitely a good mix between being away from the huge crowds but still being lively. And it's quite close to the center of the city so the normal sightseeing stuff is super easy to do from there.