Quote:
Originally Posted by Titan2
@surferguy but figured I would post vs. DM to share his wisdom. I am looking to treat my cutting boards. Pretty much cheap Ikea ones but I do have a Boos board. It appears food grade mineral oil is the way to go. Some also recomend a beeswax eithe mixed in or applied after. Also, another poster on Reddit suggeste using vacuum bags with mineral oil and soakiiung for 24 hours. Claims to have caused twice the amount of oil to be absorbed.
Some have also recomended Walrus Oil but that is a US product so no go. ]
So:
1. Mineral Oil only?
2. Mineral oil sous vide?
3. Wax, yes or no?
4. A concoction of mineral oil and wax mixture?
5. Some other process not mentioned here?
Appreciate any feedback from anyone but holding out for the pro...
There are million posts on creating a mineral oil/wax concoction but here is one: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...l_oil_beeswax/
Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...d_ive_already/
I also saw this product and was considering it: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074PYZL25/...9kZXRhaWw&th=1 |
**cracks knuckles**
My process is simple, its mineral oil. Personally I have a big Rubbermaid of the stuff and all new boards I have take a 24hr bath in it. Its likely overkill but its just how my timing works as I build. Different species will soak up more oil depending on the porosity of their grains. Your Ikea board is likely birch which would be similar to a maple but not dense.
Your board is likely in need of a refresh. Soaking it is your best path forward for anything that is beyond a "topical refresh"
Topical refresh: This is where your wood wax comes in (mineral oil and beeswax combo). After I soak my boards, I let them dry out/drain for a day before I coat them in the wood wax conditioner. This is a topical treatment, as in it creates an envelope film on the outside of the board. Basically a cream the consistency of butter.
The idea is that it will mush that wax down into any open pore creating a barrier for water/stuff to penetrate. This will break down over time as you wash your board/use it. This is where it is imperative to reapply to keep your board looking fresh and protected. Apply liberally, let it stand for 10/15 mins, buff it off with a paper towel. You are ready to go.
Washing your board: Use soap and water. Never let in soak, never put it in the dishwasher. After washing towel dry it immediately and put it on edge to let it finish drying. Leaving it flat can lead to warping or humping (snicker).
My recommendations. Grab a bottle of mineral oil from shoppers or superstore and find a pan or container that you can best soak your board in. Keep it slathered in oil as best as possible for 24 hrs if you can. Use a sponge to slop on the oil and turn it over every time, just try and keep the surface wet as best as possible.
Once that is done, let the board dry out. Then get some wood wax and apply as described above. When that process is complete you are ready to go!
Reach out to me and I can give you one of my tins of wood wax.
I hadn't heard the recommendation that Geraldish has above about a conditioning schedule but I like it and it certainly wouldn't be bad for your board. I will probably start recommending that to my client going forward.
Regarding Walrus and other topicals that you can buy, they will for sure work but they are more expensive and are basically the same thing. Keep it simple and your boards should last a long time.
Hopefully that covers everything. Feel free to respond if you have more questions or if I overlooked anything in my process.
Happy conditioning!