Spent a week in 2010, pretty much in the French Quarter the whole time, and never felt unsafe. I guess I was just clueless.
There was a restaurant that offered creole cooking classes that were very good, I am not sure if it is the same one that is currently on the top of TripAdvisor's Things To Do list. At the time, it was taught by an ex-CFL player, but I am not finding that referenced on my Google searches. It was probably the New Orleans School of Cooking.
Cafe du Monde on Decatur is the original Beignet place, and probably an obligatory stop.
Thoroughly enjoyed the place and had intended to go back again, but I know other people who I have talked to who have been accidental tourists there (conventions) and have hated the place.
As mentioned, it can be gritty. Poverty, rats, cockroaches, etc.. Hot and muggy too; early morning run in 24c felt like running in 35c here. The smell is probably the other tourists, but they have trucks that come around early in the morning to wash the whole place down.
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