Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
One other thing I'm thinking, because it exits the house with a slight downward slope, to allow the vent pipe to drain outside, perhaps when you install the cap you should tilt it upwards a bit. You should have some leeway so that rather than the condensate dripping into the cap and standing it would continue to drain out.
Not sure if that makes sense without a drawing. Basically tip the end upwards before securing it with those screws.
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This touches on a really, really common misconception with regard to direct-vented appliances.
Your flue should slope back to the inside of the house, not to the outside. The end of the flue vent should be tipped "up" to drain back to the furnace/water heater/boiler, usually a minimum 2% (or ~1/4 inch per foot of length). It should not drain to outside.
Fleury'sOT, you've got a few things going on that are wacky. First of all the cone fitting you took off should be glued on. It's hard to tell but the ice pooling inside the cone may be from condensate in the exhaust stream (the smaller pipe) leaking through the unglued joint into the intake (the bigger pipe). The source of your issue may be that right there: the fact that the cone isn't glued on and it's leaking.
Second of all, what's up with the screws? There should be any. Make sure the pipes are glued, not screwed.
Lastly the pipe should slope down into the house, back to your water heater. If you have access, look at the pipe run on the inside of the house. Both the intake and exhaust should slope toward your heater. If they're relatively flat, or there are any sags in the run, that's a problem that needs to get rectified.